Showing all 66 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
9- | Starke Jungs aus dem Glashaus | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
5 | ★★ Westriss - with James | 25m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Nordkante - with James | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
6- | ★★★ Westriss - with James | 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
6+ | ★ Say Yeah | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Don't Bother | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | ||||
4 | ★★ Krebs - with André | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Geil und brüchig - with Martin | 13m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | |||||
7 | ★★ Je t'aime - with Martin | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
crux after second bolt, some good but polished pockets, keep going
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7 | ★ Scharfes Luder - with Martin | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | |||||
Definitely harder then je t'aime. you need to tolarate relatively bad holds.
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5+ | ★★ Jungfrau - with André | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
4+ | ★ April-Flocke - with André | 11m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | |||||
6+ | ★ Rechter Kantenweg - with André | 11m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
6 | ★ Wassermann - with Martin | 11m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | ★ Chickenway | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | |||||
6- | ★★ Palast der Hohen | 12m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Steinbeißer | 12m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | |||||
6 | ★ Stabeler Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 20th Jun 2022 | |||||
5 | R4 | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
6+ | ★ Flechtenwanderung | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
7- | ★★ R6 | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
6 | ★ R9 | 8m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | |||||
5- | Langer Riss | 25m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | |||||
6- | ★ Rue de Inge | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | |||||
6 | ★★ Dornröschenpfeiler | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | |||||
6- | ★★ Siebenschläfer - with Felix | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | ★★ Höhlenbär - with Kostja | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | ★★ Rechter Spion - with Kostja | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Weg des Paukers - with Kostja | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
6+ 6/6+ | ★★ Süchtige Elfe - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
7- 6+/7- | ★★ Züchtige Elfe - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 13m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
4+ 4/4+ | Ort der Finsternis - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 9m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
7 | ★ Kralle - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
7 | ★★ Freundschaftsweg - with Micha | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier - with Micha | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
Etwas nass
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7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg - with Micha | 27m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - with Micha | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
9- | ★★★ Sautanz - with Micha | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | |||||
7- | ★★ Never Stop Exploring - with Micha | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | |||||
7 | ★★ Bunte Wand - with Micha | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | |||||
6- | ★★ Gaffer im Nacken - with Micha | 11m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||||
8- | ★★ Albatros - with Micha | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||||
8 | ★★ Supernase - with Micha | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||||
8- | ★ Bordsteinschwalbe - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Enjoyable! Not as hard as it seems from below.
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5+ | ★★ Südwand - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - with Ellen | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
No chance here. Painful, small holds and sketchy moves made me lose all my cool (even though I clipsticked everything) so I gave up at the 4th or 5th bolt...
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7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - with Ellen | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Amazing fun! Really strenuous and tricky along the crack (I suppose it's even harder without the draws already in), and another tough section further up. The juggy finish is the reward
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8- | ★★★ Süßspeise - with Ellen | 32m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
#repeat Such a good line. The sidepulls under the first roof were a bit slimy today, but they're large enough. Love the airy jug finish.
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7+ | ★★ Überlebt - with Ellen | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Didn't feel as desperate as I remembered it, but the first few meters from the ledge are quite intense.
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4 | ★ Bergseite - with Ellen | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
8- | ★ Bordsteinschwalbe - with Ellen | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
The good fingerlock in the crux makes it relatively easy for the grade, especially compared to the rest of the 8s here. Careful on the way to the second bolt. Good line along the overhanging crack. Ends on the ledge, you can either finish with "Berglustweg" or "Südwand".
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5+ | ★★ Südwand - with Ellen | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
#repeat Now with glue-ins instead of pegs in two places. No entries in the summit book since I was here in March …
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5+ | ★★ Neuer Gemsenweg - with Harald | 19m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Starts as "Alter Gemsenweg", but then draws up over the little overhang. Easier than "Alter Gemsenweg" in free climbing terms, but felt a bit more powerful all in all.
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7 | ★★ Alter Gemsenweg - with Harald | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Classic traverse, but astonishingly easy. Just follow the horizontal lines of pockets up to the northeast arête, then walk up to the ledge. The next two moves are the crux (originally done by pulling the gear, of course), then again easy to the ledge.
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6+ | ★ Block Ostwand - with Harald | 8m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
The "easiest" way to the summit from the plateau … or so they say. In fact, it's a little boulder problem to the ring, quite powerful. Afterwards, you're just laybacking up the big flakes, but a cam is sensible.
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6 | ★★ Nordwand - with Harald | 8m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
This is the original second pitch of "Alter Gemsenweg" and indeed a fantastic finish. Spectacular, airy, but easy crack climbing.
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6 | ★ Emporweg - with Harald | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Stretching the term "onsight" for this one a little due to the unpassable tree. Swung around on rope tension, then immediately continued climbing. Not 100% sure we climbed the line correctly, but since there was an old ring before the arête, it was at least a "popular" variant. Apparently, the first ascensionists originally traversed further left to the end of the chimney, then went up and back again to the arête, but this detour didn't make it into later guide books.
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7- | ★ Fröschliweg - with Harald | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Hard to read. Small holds in good, black rock. Not easy for the grade, but that might also be due to the dust on the holds.
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5+ | ★ Schwartenriss - with Harald | 23m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.
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6+ | ★★ Philosophenweg - with Harald | 28m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.
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6 | ★ Bayernwand - with Harald | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.
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7 | ★★ Je t'aime - with michael König | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||||
7 | ★ Scharfes Luder - with michael König | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||||
6 | ★ Wassermann - with michael König | 11m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
8 | ★★ Kalauer | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
#2go Cruxy. Direct, ie. high foot with slopy sidepull
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Showing all 66 ascents.