Ascents in Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand

Fantastic wall climbing with two little drawbacks: the dirty blocks/ledge after the first bolt (I went a bit to the right because it felt safer), and the runout to the final headwall (especially because the massive flake you use to get up to the bolt is moving …). Other than that, impeccable rock quality, tricky moves, not a single speck of chalk on the holds, pure onsighting terrain. Challenging and certainly not 8- due to the tough crux in the middle.

Great classic, quite technical in the upper part. A nut after the first bolt protects the way to the ledge. On the way to the next bolt, it's also sensible to place gear. I used a pink dragon cam and extended it with an alpine draw, then also put a long sling into the next bolt to keep rope drag at bay. The traverse is tricky, best approached quite low. Brilliant position on the final little ledge, then up to the very top (the route originally went around the corner to the right before going up and has been straightened).

Long wall climbing with great finish and crux on small holds in the slab in the upper part. Take small nuts for the runout to the second bolt. After the last bolt, a massive piece of rock broke off some time ago (you can still see the crater on the ground), but the remains seem to be safe. Nevertheless, some loose stuff here and there, so better watch out.

Great dihedral that should be done much more often. I climbed it clean because I thought the first ascent was done without pitons or bolts, but apparently it wasn't (it originally had 2 pitons in the dihedral and one at the very end). Not as easy to protect as it looks, too. But with the three bolts that it has now, it's perfectly protected. The ring at the top sits a bit too high, though. You can't reach it from a safe position and the piton below it wasn't clippable because it was too deep in the crack. So in the end I threaded my Prusik sling through the piton and left it there, you can thank me later.

Goes up the little pillar to the left of "RKG" (sharing the start of the latter). The difficulty is compressed to a few moves between the second and third bolt, but it's a nice, bouldery route.

Funny little dihedral. Starts from the block below "RKG". A few rock tunnels can be threaded, but it's also possible to use big cams in the crack. No anchor on top, so I had to second it and we walked down.

Band oben zu nass und siffig.