Ascents in Loreleyblock

Climbed to the top to write into the summit book. After all, this route is partly named after me, so I had to do the honours. #jahreserste2024

Fell off at the beginning of the traverse, which was still dirty from the winter. After finding the right holds and cleaning them, this section climbs better than it looks. Nevertheless, all the other sections are nicer.

Didn't like it too much. The upper part is meh (it only makes sense to use the right edge); might be that I didn't find the best solution for the lower part, but what I saw from the others didn't exactly inspire me to come back to this, there are better lines here.

Short but not too bad. Decent rock, good finish.

I don't exactly get this one. It's not a line, really. Weirdly forced.

It's not entirely clear, but it sure seems like the easiest way up is starting with this one, then traversing to the right into "Alter Weg". Finishing directly up here is nice, though, too.

Nice line along the arête, quite airy actually.

Pretty stiff. Maybe that's also because I thought I was climbing a 7 or so, which turned out to be the route next to this one. Not bad, but the start is super steep and I didn't solve it too elegantly. Hard moves after the ledge.

Technisch

Monopower

immer gute Griffe und Tritte. Nicht immer gleich zu erkennen.

kleine Leisten zwischen 1.+2.Haken.

perfekt gesichert und homogen über kleine Tritte

Surprisingly desperate start into an easy finish.

Forgotten route on the backside. This was actually the first and only route here for a long time. Astonishingly hard, maybe the pegs were reached using a human pyramid back in the day? Already marked as overgrown in the 1964 Bühler guide, hence the grade "V" has never received an upgrade. It's a veritable boulder through a steep overhang. And after reaching the pegs, it's still a few moves of hard climbing before it eases off. Definitely among the hardest summits in Franken.