Ascents in Nankendorfer Block

Kreative Schlüsselstelle.

Fortschritt … wenigstens erst am Umlenker gefallen

Die Ausdauer reicht heute nicht

The guides list this as chossy and grassy. Neither of it is really true. Yes, there are a few loose bits here and there, but it's overall good rock with reasonable placements (the first ascensionist actually wanted to climb it as a trad route but chickened out, the bolt is in the right place, though).

Adventure time once again in the dull, moist weather that we are currently dealing with. It's no longer completely clear how the first pitch originally looked like because of all the new routes. We just climbed the line that is now "Drachentöter" and then to the right to the belay under the roof. Then I lead the second pitch, past around 8 Sticht bolts through the absolutely horizontal roof. There's no chance for this to go free, so probably nobody's going to pull the shabby bolts by falling onto them. They seem to have merged with the rock in the meantime, none of them budged. The exposure is quite amazing and it's a fun endeavour, probably hasn't been done in a good few years. There's a good Bühler bolt around the lip of the roof (the last Sticht bolt is hard to reach, prepare for a little trickery), so you can set up a hanging belay there and abseil down instead of crawling out through moss and dirt.

Im zweiten Versuch den kleingriffigen Boulder geschafft.

Flash versemmelt, im 2. Go dann gar nicht so schwer..

Bad

Burly crack start. I once again overlooked the tiny "Löw loop" above the rusty ring in the crack … luckily, Alex made me aware of this fact. The rest is easier, but technical climbing. Some brittle and loose rock around, so take care. The route used to traverse out onto the ledge on the right. Better use the anchor of "Ni Fu Ni Fa".

Funky mantel in the middle, after some warmup climbing in rough rock. The upper part is a crack with good holds; the bolts are quite far to the right, which makes it a bit scary. I guess the hardest part is really to traverse to the anchor.

Incredibly rough rock, especially compared to "Drachentöter" further left. Quite easy to the ledge, then a powerful boulder through the overhang. Nice one.

Hung up the draws as a #warmup. Actually we wanted to climb "Nankendorfer Weg" first, but the starting holds were so damp that I couldn't make a single move.

Nice little jump at the start (probably possible statically, but a little harder), then crux moves for me from the good crimp to the jug after the second bolt. Nice pocket climbing with a little traverse in the middle afterwards and another hard section at the end, with a cool finishing move into an undercling. The first bolt is awkward to clip, and the second is too high (and bent towards the rock, someone must have bashed it).