Ascents in Oberngruber Wand

gruselig, aber mit verlängerter 3. Exe ok

Oh Jeez … basically an onsight attempt. Went pretty smoothly until the crux … which I could also climb astonishingly well, considering that I didn't even manage to climb through it last time I tried. And then I managed to get myself too pumped on the shallow sloper pockets afterwards and lost my nerve … just a single move away from the anchor.

Yeah well.

Didn't work out … couldn't find a solution to get to the second bolt, so I bailed. Apparently you have to put your right foot quite far into the slab on the right?

Still couldn't figure out how to climb the crux. Had the second bolt preclipped, though, so I was able to pull myself up to the jugs and enjoy the beautiful slab above (around 7+?).

hard crimpy beginning

2nd Go

Cool climb with a sketchy slab at the top

Made a mistake at the second bolt (shared with "Monsun"). It's important to first get the two-finger pocket and then put your left foot up high. Delicate traverse to the arête, which then starts out easy and continuously gets harder; great moves in the end!

Worked out nicely. I could even do the sketchy move on the way to the last bolt statically. The last moves still didn't feel absolutely safe, but I guess that's part of the fun.

I had to rest and figure things out at literally every single bolt (except the 1st). I can do all the moves, but it's still quite hard for me overall. Having the quickdraws already in certainly helps here.

Just a great route. #repeat

It took me quite a while to figure out a good beta for me, both for the crux at the second bolt as well as for the finish.

Second try, made every mistake there is to make, still got about two thirds up, then fell, completely exhausted. For what it's worth, this is an 8+/9- that might actually be harder than 8+ for once.

For my future self (spoilers start here): Tape left middle finger, right middle and ring finger for the sharp holds. First crux: Go straight up to the two double-pockets, twist left for a reachy move into the bad pocket (index but mostly middle finger worked best). Put right foot a bit higher (hard to see pocket), then place left foot (no hook) on the little ledge. Use mono to get up, then left hand into the hold on the flake (it sucks, deal with it), then maybe right hand into the next bad pocket (not sure anymore). Then, this is vital, right foot into the higher one of the good pockets. Now barely reach the top of the flake. Sketchy clip.

For the finish: First of all, rest on ledgy holds below. Don't miss the good pockets in the "pillar" on the right side of the crack. Use the first one with the right hand instead of reaching far up and right to the tempting pockets. Then use the second pocket as an undercling to get into the slit on the right. From the slit, first get the left hand in the topmost part of the crack (little finger gets stuck a bit), put the left foot on the somewhat hidden crimp in the crack, then the good hold up left is within reach. It looks too far away, but it isn't. Then just one-arm-pull yourself up, or I don't know, do what you still can at this point.

Just had to #repeat it again. Got some beta from the ground since it's been a while, but I probably wouldn't have needed it, all fell into place anyway. The finish felt totally easy today, my crack skills definitely improved massively.

first go, but I already knew the sequences from the other routes