Ascents in Rabenecker Wand

Looks huge from below, and no surprises there. Spaced bolts, crux is a long hard passage in the first part (before the no-hands rest). Spans from the red rock in the lower wall over the chimney, around the corner (hard to reach bolt, you wouldn't want to fall there, once the quickdraw is in I could easily clip it) into a white and gray headwall with easier, but more delicate and even slabby climbing, but to top it off, there's a final overhang and I had to dyno the very last move (make sure to clean the target hold before an attempt).

Can only be climbed if you have a second. Fantastic black rock up the east face, then around the corner and up to a rusty peg. Don't be fooled by the book case above you, this is from "Naturfreundevariante", which doesn't have Bühler bolts yet. Instead, traverse to the right (some bolts) through great rock to a narrow ledge. If you don't want to crawl up over the last two ledges, you can lower off from the last Bühler onto another narrow ledge, then slip through the window into the chimney to get back to the start.

Without the thorns and nettles at the crux the route would be even nicer.

Tried to climb the initial slab, but it was just way too sandy (and I couldn't find a single spot to place some gear), so halfway to the first bolt (at around 6 meters), I bailed to the left into the chimney. Finished it like the first ascensionists did, by climbing to the little window in "Frankenländerkamin", then traversing out to the first bolt. The hardest part then was to climb around the thorns just below the book. Friends of mine did a great job of cutting them down, but they have already grown a bit again. After the book, it gets easier once you can squeeze your body into the crack. Quite the feat for 1927! Placed a new book.

With some gear this time. There are a few sensible placements for nuts and slings. After the traverse, in the vertical section, a big block was apparently the designated toilet of some animal. I've never seen such a big pile of in a route. I could swear this wasn't there a few months ago. What a mess … it was quite challenging to not drag the rope through it as well.

Downclimbed it for the first time, which was the original style of the first ascent. Of course I also went up first, and then climbed back and forth a bit, also because I had to rescue a dear friend by bringing him his headlamp which he accidentally dropped and so was stuck in the darkness.

Almost got stuck in the middle part because I tried to squeeze through the narrow part. Had to slide down a bit. Went out via the variant finish through a narrow hole in the cave wall. Had my rope already set up for abseil, so I didn't have to scramble up the last meters.

I had wonderful musical accompaniment while climbing, because a musical theatre performance took place nearby at Burg Rabeneck. Traverse in from the back of the chimney, then up onto the chock, another traverse to the chockstones at the front, then straight up. There's an abseil bolt at the end of the chimney, but I finished via the original scramble along the ledge and the little chimney to the very top. Guess I'll have to downclimb this one some time, given that it was done this way on the first ascent and it's recommended as a rewarding descent option in the old guide books.

Adventure time! The perfect place to be, during a hot day like this.

Lead by David X., placements and "brushy brushy" by Christoph Rauch (thanks!). Did it in three pitches. Almost got stuck in the chimney with my helmet in the second pitch Airy finish indeed, but awesome. Really cool!

Did a bit of cleaning while going up. Getting over the third bolt was too hard for me, could not stick the left hold, but I at least figured out my feet. Also struggled with the last moves to the anchor, too. Very cool route, could use more climbs/cleaning, too hard for me.

One of the last untouched adventure climbs in the Frankenjura. Especially rewarding with many people. Hard to find, difficult to get to, and I had to use a big brush to make the first few meters even climbable. Hard overhanging crack/chimney section to a ledge on which you crawl to the outside of the chimney. Incredibly airy finish in perfect rock. Pure trad climb, the possibilities for protection are also relatively scarce.

Classic material. Delightfully homogeneous vertical to slabby climbing with spicy bolt distances. One cruxy section at the bolt after the big rock tunnel. Perfect rock quality in various colour schemes. Unfortunately, "green" is also part of those colours, meaning I had to clean lots of vegetation during my onsight. Should be climbed much more often, the line really deserves it.

Another fantastic line with lots of interesting passages. Most of the time there's a hidden jug somewhere. Quite long; can be done in one pitch, but the belay bolt on the big ledge should be extended quite a bit. Also, there's only rusty pegs and rings from there (but a good bolt to lower off at the end).

What an adventure! More like vertical caving than chimney climbing. We did it in three pitches on protection placed by Christoph Rauch.

Good climbing, sketchy exit. Having the draws in helped a bit, and I started it with the second draw already clipped because of the hard and exposed start.