Ascents in Schauertaler Ostwand

FFA.

Long, exciting journey. Easy wall climbing in the chimney to a dusty slab, a nice overhang with good holds and a finish in a slippery crack with slopers. Murderous rope drag if you don't extend a few bolts (I didn't; trust me, you don't want this in the upper part). Great view from the top. The lower section is quite chossy, unfortunately.

Great variant that drives off right at the fourth bolt into the vertical wall, crosses over SRG and merges into MSG via a great layback section in the overhanging dihedral. Worthwhile just like everything here.

Felt like it was a bit cleaner and dryer than last time. Amazing route with the most amazing position and ridiculous jugs in the roof, then sloper crux and crack finish. And that's just the upper half. Varied, exposed, just great. (And I'll adjust my personal grade, it probably is 7+).

FFA.

Phew. The traverse is pumpy and technical as hell. Had to rest at the first bolt of the traverse (couldn't find a sensible way to get around the big nose) and at the end (just had no strength left with all the flat, dusty holds). Guess I'll have to climb this first before even trying "Bandwurm".

Needed to check out the crux and then sat in the rope at every bolt. Didn't feel like I would be able to send it today. Solved the crux with a long, slightly dynamic move to the crimp high up on the right.

Awesome, long and varied route. It's best if your belayer comes to the first ledge with you. Difficult crack start with some jams, then easy to the fourth bolt. Hard crux on shallow crimps. There are intermediate holds, but they didn't help me at all. Then wonderful slab typical for the area, with long moves between slopy crimp rails. A few athletic moves towards the end over the little roof, and finally some stemming through the overhanging dihedral. And as if that was not enough, there's a blank wall just before the anchor, a bit hard to find the important hold.