Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7b 8+ | ★★ Wendehals | Westpfalz | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | ||||||
Alzheimer Flash
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8 | Mein lieber Schwan | Westpfalz | Sat 15th Jun 2013 | ||||||
O, the joy of having enough reach in the Pfalz... ;-).
Please brush the holds after you've finished - it's fairly essential on sandstone to have clean holds - as well as it being a gesture of decency towards the next climber. Bitte nach dem Klettern die Griffe putzen.
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7- 8 | Toppler - with Diana | 2 | Westpfalz | Average | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | ||||
Extremely #morpho. If you aren't tall this may well be a 7a, but if you are it's exactly one move which isn't even that hard. My first 7a onsight would have been nice, but let's be real...
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8 | ★★★ Jahreswechsel | 9 | Westpfalz | Fri 10th May 2013 | |||||
Fun route with two cruxes. Nice and technical in stead of bouldery.
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7a 8 | ★★ Atemlos | 23m, 5 | Westpfalz | Sun 18th Jul 2010 | |||||
Alzheimer OS
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7a 8 | ★★★ Jahreswechsel | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | ||||
Wirklich tolle Linie! Sieht gut aus und klettert sich noch besser
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7a 8- | ★★ Kelvin 266 | 35m, 7 | Westpfalz | Sun 18th Jul 2010 | |||||
Alzheimer OS
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8- | ★★★ Flammende Herzen - with Klara R | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
Very nice climbing on honeycomb structures
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8- | ★★★ Studentenweg - with Biba, Cury | 8 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | ||||
Etwas weit zum ersten Haken, danach aber ganz gut abgesichert. Crux für Kleine vorm Umlenker
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8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch | 28m, 10 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Jun 2009 | ||||
8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch - with Moxi | 28m, 10 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
Sehr coole Tour in der man nichts legen muss zum ersten Ring muss man wie immer trotzdem aufpassen. Ab dem vierten Ring ist's vorbei.
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7+ | ★★ Zu Früh Gelacht | Westpfalz | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | ||||||
Fun route. Don’t forget the cam for the upper crack (several sizes fit, a C3 0,5 or 0,75 can be placed at the top of the crack).
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7+ | ★★ Fingerrissdach | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Jun 2009 | |||||
Schones Rissdach, obwohl es auch ohne zu klemmen geht. Eher 6b. #soft
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6c 7+/8- | ★★ Gabis Weg - with Moxi | 23m, 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
Etwas scary zum ersten und nach dem 3ten Ring. Oben im Überhang hab ich ewig eine Sanduhr Schlinge reingefriemelt nur um dann 15cm neben der Schlinge einen Haken zu sehen die rostingen Dinger fallen im roten Sandstein einfach nicht auf...
Im Ausstieg hätte ich noch was legen sollen. War ein ziemlicher Runout aber an guten Griffen. |
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7+ | ★ Mauersegler - with Moxi | 25m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
Kleiner Cam zum ersten und großer Cam zum 4ten Ring. Der Rest ist gut abgesichert.
Crux war der sehr sandige Tritt zum 2ten Ring. Nicht sehr offensichtlich wohin man klettern muss. Aber meist gute Griffe und schöne Kletterei. |
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7+ | ★★ Entfruster - with Philip | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||||
Amazing route!
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7+ | ★★ Metamorphose - with Diana | 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
My topo says crux near the first bolt. I disagree and would put it higher, but it's pretty consistent dihedral fun throughout. Pumpy only for the calves, you can always technique your way around having to pull hard. Plenty of somewhat good rest and clip positions, would not have been necessary to pre-clip the first two bolts in retrospect.
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8- 7+/8- | ★★ Luftikus - with Raimund | 20m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Tough one! I didn't climb the actual start, but started right into the second half from the last bolt of "Direkter Plattenweg". Powerful overhang which I attacked a little to the right of the ring to do a big rockover on the left foot above the bolt. Then a few meters of nothingness in a terribly shallow dihedral (if you can even call it that). Sketchy moves first lead a little to the left (to gain a mediocre crimp), then again to the right. Foot even popped off at one point and I have no Idea how I stuck to the wall.
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7+ | ★★ Die Unvollendete - with Biba, Cury | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | ||||
Unten etwas komisch oben dafür umso schöner
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7+ | ★★ Reibeisen - with Moxi | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2019 | ||||
Überraschend gut. Zum dritten Ring kann man gut einen Friend legen und zum 4ten eine Sanduhrschlinge.
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8- 7+/8- | ★★ Ratzeputz | 8 | Westpfalz | Sun 12th May 2013 | |||||
Very nice climb on good rock. Lots of bolts make it on of the few pure sports climbs around. Cruxy round bolt 3, fun at the top. #soft
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7+ | ★★ Flug des Albatros | 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2011 | ||||
With direct finish following the edge.
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7+ | ★★ Reibeisen | 6 | Westpfalz | Thu 9th May 2013 | |||||
Nice moves and good rock. XIII-. #hard
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7+ 7+/8- | ★★ Sieg der Schwerkraft | 5 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th May 2021 | ||||
Verry blancy moves. enjoyable!
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7+ ~8- | ★★ Reibekuchen - with Klara R | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
The first bolt is quite high and the climbing is not easy. After an initial hard move to reach a jug, you have to do another sequence of moves on holds which are not as good as they look from below, before you can finally lean far to the left to clip the first bolt. The difficulty matches the grade, but I would not recommend to climb to the unclipped first bolt unless you're absolutely sure that you can climb this grade. From then on, it's not dangerous anymore even though the bolts are still far apart. The climbing is excellent, with some moves which are quite difficult.
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7 | ★★★ Sonnenweg - with Anika | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th May 2015 | ||||
7 | ★★ Zwergenschreck - with Biba, Cury | 5 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | ||||
Der Anfang ist laut Topo ein 6- Riss (zum selbst absichern). Fand den viel schwerer als den Rest Pfalz halt
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7 | ★★ Zwischenmahlzeit - with Biba, Cury | 3 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | ||||
Unten schön, oben typischer Pfalz-Ausstieg an nichts
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6b+ 7 | ★★★ Geierwally | 45m, 11 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Feb 2008 | ||||
Alzheimer Onsight
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7 | ★★★ Wintermärchen - with Moxi | 30m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
Friend zum ersten Ring wichtig! Zwischendrin dann auch noch einer. Bis auf den matschigen, Kiesel Anfang sehr schön. Wenn's überhängend wird kommen Henkel
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7 | ★★ Nordriß - with Raimund | 25m, 5 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jun 2023 | ||||
Used #crackgloves by recommendation of a local. Guess they helped, but they also made my hands too thick for some parts of the crack, so the jams might not have been so much better than without (but certainly less greasy). Great crack line with a good number of rings, so only a purple cam is necessary (before the first). Probably my proudest ascent of the trip, really fought for it. It's not over once you reach the diagonal part at the top, either, still struggled quite a bit and had to rest before taking on the last few meters.
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7 | ★★★ Sternstunde | Westpfalz | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | ||||||
Sehr schön.
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7 |
★★ Ralf und Joe P1
- with
Franz
1
| 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||
Good to wake up.
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7- | ★★ Schleichgewicht - with Linus + Anika | 15m, 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
nice traverse on under clings
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7- | ★ Frustrierte Chauvis - with Linus + Anika | 20m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
gets better with every meter
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7- | ★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch - with Anika | 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th May 2015 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Let´s Dance | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||||
Really nice!
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7- | Großmütterchen | 18m, 3 | Westpfalz | Sun 10th May 2020 | |||||
Die erste 7- in der Südpfalz, die nicht viel schwerer ist als der Grad - bestimmt wird sie bald auf 3 abgewertet...
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7- | ★★ Neuer Pfeilerweg - with Katta | 22m, 2 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
Righthand variant of the upper section. Fun climbing and good cam placements
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6+ 7- | ★★ Sechs-Haken-Weg - with Hannes | 21m, 5 | Westpfalz | Average | Fri 12th Jun 2020 | ||||
Muss man nicht gemacht haben, hat aber wirklich viele Haken.
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7- | ★★ Annweiler Sonnenplatte - with Victor | 25m, 5 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
Sehr hübsche Kletterei, gerade im unteren Teil technisch anspruchsvoll.
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7- | ★ Vertical Beach - with Diana | 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Thu 20th May 2021 | ||||
Not as sandy as the name suggests. Not more than everything else in Annaberg at least. However one jug that was also chalked up still from someone elses go made terrible aching noises and I did not dare pull on it fearing that I might rip the whole thing out. Still, one of the nicer routes I've done here so far.
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7- | ★★★ Let´s Dance | Westpfalz | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||||
Steht mit 6 im Topo, 7- kommt mir zu schwer vor.
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6+ 7- | ★★★ Aufbruch | 4 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||
7- kommt mir zu schwer vor, eher leichter als Steinerner Regen nebendran. Aber sehr schön
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7- | ★★★ Teufelsdach | 11m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2015 | ||||
Kort men kul. Framförallt kul att stå på djävulens bord och att få applåder på vägen ner!
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7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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7- | ★★ Wurzelkompression - with Karlheinz Schwegler-Erb | 20m, 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | ||||
Crux am 2. BH (Längenzug). Viele Möglichkeiten durch die Kiesel. Sehr schön. Beim nächsten Mal bestimmt VS!
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7- | ★★ Strictly Balroom - with Diana | 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||
Nice moves
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7- | ★ Teufelskante - with Raimund | 25m, 4 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
Striking line and also a good climb. Directly up the arête in the upper part, mostly on jugs. The finish was quite dirty, which is strange, I would have thought this to be quite popular.
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7- | ★★★ Talwand - with Raimund | 30m, 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2023 | ||||
Dream line through the west face with quite a few rings. Quite directly up the western arête, then through the middle of the headwall with a crux on thin holds. A slightly overhanging finish leads you diagonally rightwards to the summit (nuts and cams possible here). Extending the second ring and maybe the one in the crux is advisable.
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7- ~6+ | ★ Vertical Beach | 3 | Westpfalz | Don't Bother | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | ||||
Schwerer als es aussieht, aber (viel) leichter als angegeben. Eher unlohnend.
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6+ | ★★ Direkte Südwand - with Linus + Anika | 4 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
crack start and juggy finish
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6+ | ★★ Perestroika - with Anika | 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th May 2015 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Talkante - with Anika | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th May 2015 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Westgratkante - with Anika | 35m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th May 2015 | ||||
#jan-belay
technical moves before the last bolt #c2 helps
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6+ | ★★ Teamarbeit | 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | ||||
last bolt before the anchor to clip is difficult
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6+ | ★★ Therapiezentrum | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | |||||
tough start
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6+ | ★ Augustpfeiler - with Philip | 16m, 5 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Mon 15th Apr 2019 | ||||
Ganz ok
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6+ | ★★ Therapiezentrum - with Yannick Froese | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||||
Better do some stretching before!
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6+ | ★ Weiße Katze - with Shana | Westpfalz | Thu 24th Sep 2020 | ||||||
Short, cool, creative. Nice first Rendez-vous with the Pfalz rock.
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6+ | ★★★ Fissura Calzonata | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | ||||
First real crack!
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6+ | ★★ Pony Express | 7 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | ||||
Trad this time
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6+ | ★★ Grad Nuff | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | |||||
Sehr schöner 6er mit athletischem steilen Ende.
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6+ | Restekante - with Diana | 4 | Westpfalz | Average | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
Starts out nice then becomes dirty choss
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6+ | ★ Südpfeiler - with Pernilla | 35m | Westpfalz | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||||
Mega mega beautiful rock, at some point almost Utah-like. Straight up and solid focus required. Absolute stunner trad/mixed first pitch.
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6+ | Schwüler Dreck - with Diana | 4 | Westpfalz | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Steinerner Regen - with Diana | 5 | Westpfalz | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | |||||
Kinda nasty to the anchor
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6+ ~7 | Weg der Arbeit - with Sabi | Westpfalz | Thu 18th May 2023 | ||||||
Direkt
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6+ | ★ Hungerweg - with Raimund | 40m | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Awesome long route through the central part of the wall. The toughest moves are before the first ring, there's a good fit for a yellow cam, but it's quite low, maybe place something on the right and extend. Speaking of extending bolts: I didn't quite do that enough in the upper part, didn't have enough slings on me, so my attempt to climb it in one go was hindered quite a bit by rope drag, although I eventually succeeded.
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6+ | Moschtkopp - with Raimund | 35m, 5 | Westpfalz | Average | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
The upper part is good (apparently there's a newer ring up there, too, which helps a lot) but you have to get past the rooflet in the middle, which is a bit of a showstopper after the already demanding slab dihedral in the beginning. The bolt at the rooflet doesn't inspire a lot of confidence and neither does the rock quality in that part of the wall. Also, after you've heaved your body over the lip, you still have to do a few sketchy moves with mediocre protection (placed a green cam) before you reach the ledge.
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6+ | Pfaffenwand - with Raimund | 25m | Westpfalz | Don't Bother | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Took a wrong turn because the description in the guidebook was obviously incorrect. Climbed on for a few meters before I realised it; too late to back off at that point, so I struggled my way up the utter choss. Half a first ascent, but I wouldn't recommend any repeats.
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6+ | ★ Direkte Brüchige Wand - with Raimund | 30m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Not as brittle as the name might suggest … except maybe the upper third. Quite long and the protection is sensible. Interesting section over the little overhang. A decent climb as long as it's clean.
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6+ | ★★ Spielerei - with Alvaro | 12m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
Great slab climb with two distinct little cruxes. Smaller cams helpful to bridge the gaps between the bolts. A real gem here, if you like intricate slab puzzles.
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6+ | ★★ Instant Crack | Westpfalz | Fri 23rd Jun 2023 | ||||||
aufwärmen
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6+ Hard | ★★★ Mogelkante | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | |||||
Ein paar Tricky züge. Friends erleichtern einiges.
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6+ | ★★ Slippery When Wet | 3 | Westpfalz | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | |||||
Adventurous. Thanks Kiki.
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6 | ★ Direkter Trichterweg | 3 | Westpfalz | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2010 | ||||
First pitch easy and well-protected; second with powerful moves and harder to protect
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6 | ★★★ Pfeilerweg - with Anika | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th May 2015 | ||||
6 | ★ Pfeilerweg | 20m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2016 | ||||
sandy, a touch tricky at the end
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6 | ★★ Mitten im Winter | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | |||||
quite sustained for the grade, a little sandy at the top
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6 | ★ Kleiner Feigling | 5 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | ||||
unprotected boulderly start (cannot stick clip first bolt) and then eases off significantly
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6 | ★★ Südwestkante - with Biba, Cury | 25m, 4 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | ||||
Ganz schön!
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6- |
★★ Große Südwand (Große Südwand P1)
- with
Moxi
1
6-
25m
| 25m | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 14th Apr 2019 | ||||
Nur bis zum ersten Umlenker. Von der Kletterei ganz schön, nur etwas scary so ganz ohne Ringe wenn man es nicht mehr gewohnt ist
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6 | ★★ Frühlingsweg - with Lea | 40m, 2 | Westpfalz | Fri 12th Jun 2020 | |||||
Durchgehend schön und gut zu sichern. Beide SL. in der Ersten SL kurz nach dem 1. Ring ist ein Henkel brüchig. Sieht aus als ob da mal wer in den Friend geflogen ist.
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6 |
★★★ Alte Westwand
- with
Katta
2
| 35m, 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
First Pitch (to 2nd Ring after the overhang, stopped due to rope drag)
Beautiful!
#barefoot
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6 | ★★ Klamotte - with Katta | 20m, 1 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
Interesting slab climbing
#E1
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6 | ★★ Schnapsweg - Direkter Ausstieg (Schnapsweg - Direkter Ausstig) - with Katta | 25m, 1 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | ||||
Beautiful, more dihedral than crack climbing.
The crux is protected by the ring.
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6 | ★ Herma + Phrodite - with Pernilla | 18m, 5 | Westpfalz | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||||
Cool
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6 | ★ Sixpack - with Pernilla | Westpfalz | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | ||||||
Haha I made a very complicated bad move low on the route and suffered some skipped heartbeats but apart from that beautiful tradding and great fun.
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6+ 6 | ★★ Bergweg - with Pernilla | 3 | Westpfalz | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||||
Stunning crack first pitch. Great tradding material. Hard section on the second pitch, well, not in terms of choreo but mentally, a couple of meters above the bolts on small holds, with fluffy rock and no bolt, I had to keep cool to put a piece and not fall. Would rate this E1 at least! Great route!
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6 | ★★★ Bauernriß | 35m | Westpfalz | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | |||||
Schön. Schlüsselpassage nach dem Ring, sonst leichter. Große Friends hilfreich. Vor dem Aufsteilen nach kurzer Platte auf 2/3 der Route schlecht sichtbare, aber bohrhakenwertige Sanduhr (120cm Schlinge).
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6 | ★ Kleiner Feigling - with Diana | 5 | Westpfalz | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||||
Much easier after the boulder at the start. Might wanna bring a clip stick, the first bolt is way above the difficulties.
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6 | ★★★ Pfeilerweg | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | ||||
Nur die erste SL geklettert
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6 | ★★ Große Südwand - with Fabian Michel | 45m | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
Super schöne Tour, allerdings wird die Seilreibung ziemlich krass wenn man viel legt und die Seillängen kombiniert. Unbedingt nicht verbinden .
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6 Hard | ★★ DAV-Weg - with Cilly, Hannes, Laura, Nico | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th May 2024 | |||||
40m varied climbing. A true gem. Went all the way up to the summit book. Climb slow and steady to find the best holds.
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6- | ★★★ Bockverschneidung | 35m | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Aug 2010 | ||||
abundant placements for Friends, hardly any for Rocks.
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6- | ★★ Troika - with Anika + Linus | 25m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Jun 2014 | ||||
E1 poor rock at the start
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6- | ★★ Schnapsweg - with Juergen Bollinger | 25m, 1 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Sep 2015 | ||||
scary shit ;-)
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