Ascents in Westpfalz having Beta

Extraordinary route, some slabby moves, a crack section and steep pockets make this true gem. Must do here. Can be protected well with #0.2-0.75.

Good to wake up.

One go to check out the moves, one go to fail once more. 🤣 Legendary steep route that pumps the shit out of you.

40m varied climbing. A true gem. Went all the way up to the summit book. Climb slow and steady to find the best holds.

We did the direct start (preclip) which was pretty slabby. The roof is quite fun, climbed it over the bolt as a chimney and could Even place a #1 in the crack before going to the anchor. Steep funky moves.

Nice corner crack. Well protectable.

Climbed it once and could climb every move free in the first go. Many sections as well without a rest. It is indeed very slippery and "polished", but all moves are super cool. The upper part after the ledge is relatively easy compared to the lower hard stuff. Maybe Pfalz 7-. The spaced bolt distances can be secured using a red and green cam.

Wonderful long route along the crack. Pretty hard for the this grade. Easy start and from the short bulge to the top sustained crack climbing. Not too many footholds around the crack in many sections.

Managed to climb both cruxes first try, but didn't find one undercling and got stuck before the first crux. One rest.

Did this today as warmup and somehow climbed the slabby crux at the third bolt while pinching everything out of the broken little stone. Was pretty scared from bolt 1-4. Afterwards cruise up the steep jugs.

Pretty route with a tricky section around the corner. Variety of jugs and relatively well bolted for this area.

Much nicer than it looks - also much easier than its neighbors, at least for me..

Mieser Kiesel der den mono nervenaufreibend gestaltet

2.SL Schwerer als 4

Variante mit Henkel 7a

I should have onsighted this one but I missed the spot just before the crux where I should have traversed a bit to the left and tried to go straight instead. Very nice climbing, well protected - only the first bolt is a bit high but the climbing up to there is easy.

Very nice climbing on honeycomb structures

It was so hot in the full sun that I didn't want to try again.

Could not find a spot to place a nut in the thinner part of the crack before running out of power. I should have just gone on to the wider part of the crack. Very nice route.

Der Einstieg zum ersten Haken ist ziemlich sportlich. Am besten den ersten Haken mit Clip-Stick vorclippen. Man geht von dem linken guten Untergriff und dem rechten hohen schlechten Untergriff direkt hoch an ein Henkelband. Von da muss man an teils schlechten Griffen noch einige Meter weiter zu einem mittelguten Henkel. Von dem muss man noch hochstehen um links den Haken überhaupt erreichen zu können. Nicht ideal! Gerade für Leute die nicht 2 Grade schwerer klettern können. Shame on you Pfälzer Kletter Moral . Das ist echt unnötig! Ein Haken mehr hätte das ganze richtig gut gemacht. Dann kommen super schöne Züge, bis man beim vierten Haken die schwerste Stelle erreicht. Hier links das kleine sloper Loch nehmen und mit rechts an den großen Sloper hoch (den Untergriff rechts lasse ich weg). Von da kann man gut dynamisch an den Henkel ziehen. Insgesamt ist die Tour schon schwer und mit ziemlich wenig Haken. Im Vorstieg nur empfehlenswert wenn man die Tour schon kennt oder deutlich schwerer klettern kann.

Da würde ich eher 7b zu sagen. Die Züge unten vom 1-ten Haken weg sind schwer aber schön. Auf den schmierigen runden Tritt (in die Wand gehend) mit rechts. Mit linkem Fuß links daneben auf schräge Leiste treten (nach links belasten). Dann rechts hochstehen auf schrägen Tritt (nach rechts belasten und mit rechts einen Seitgriff höher greifen (Arme sind die ganze Zeit angewinkelt, Bizeps!!). und mit rechts sehr hoch auf eine lange Leiste treten. Das Felsstück auf das man hoch tritt sieht eher rund aus.

The first bolt is quite high and the climbing is not easy. After an initial hard move to reach a jug, you have to do another sequence of moves on holds which are not as good as they look from below, before you can finally lean far to the left to clip the first bolt. The difficulty matches the grade, but I would not recommend to climb to the unclipped first bolt unless you're absolutely sure that you can climb this grade. From then on, it's not dangerous anymore even though the bolts are still far apart. The climbing is excellent, with some moves which are quite difficult.

Super schöne Tour, allerdings wird die Seilreibung ziemlich krass wenn man viel legt und die Seillängen kombiniert. Unbedingt nicht verbinden .

Absolutely amazing face climbing on small sloping pockets. I actually did not do one move because I didn't try for too long (I attempted a Houdini match with one finger in a relatively good pocket which I couldn't do, but there certainly is a better solution). I could do the other moves relatively quickly but the main difficulty of the route is the endurance. In the upper part of the main feature (a smooth wall with the typical honeycomb pockets which are quite small in this case), there are two bolts which are quite far apart (about 5 meters), and the climbing is not that easy (I did onsight this part, though, so it's also not extremely hard). I definitely felt the exposure there.

Nice climbing on an edge which is angled up to the left. The last part (from the second to last bolt to the anchor) is not so good anymore.

The mossy slab at the start was completely wet but I got up without slipping fortunately. I already did not onsight the first hard part above the slab which is supposedly 7+ (and well protected). I did it after hanging in the rope a bit further to the right on black slopers and small stones jutting out of the wall. The 8- branches off the 7+ to the left to very nice honeycomb-like structures in an overhang. This last part has no particular hard moves but requires power endurance.

Climbed it to put up a toprope. The crux is climbing around the roof corner which seemed quite hard, I couldn't do the moves in the three attempts which I did at the fixed quickdraw.

A horizontal roof with good holds, the crux are the two smaller holds above the roof to the anchor. I climbed it with one break to the top hold in my second try but can't imagine being able to clip the chain from there after the climbing below. I also didn't manage to reach the upper edge which would offer better holds

I definitely climbed this one but our guidebook is not quite consistent in this part of the wall, so I'm unsure whether Zauberlehrling is immediately left of Hookipa or two lines to the left (the guidebook has a photo of someone allegedly climbing Zauberlehrling, and the pictured route is definitely the one two lines left of Hookipa, which should be Nimbus (8) according to the route list - there is no topo in our guidebook). Unfortunately, some holds at the beginning of the roof in the left route were soaking wet, otherwise I might have tried again. The right route had an easier (and slightly better) lower part leading to a harder roof for which I couldn't find a solution in the few remaining minutes we had (I tried to go straight up, you can also go further right).

Very nice initial vertical part, then a roof with the crux at the upper edge where you have to get your body up and left over the lip and into a slab. After a short part with lower quality rock you traverse the same honeycomb-like structures as in Geierwally. The upper part after the lip is easier than the lower part. It took me quite some time to figure out getting over the lip, but the second try was better. Would have needed a few more tries to send.

Awesome crux!

This one was already a bit moist in some places, only Studentenweg was really dry.

The first pitch (I only did the first one) does have a hard part on sloping holds in the middle which I could not onsight (thr hard part is just above a bolt, so this crux is well protected).

I thought this one is without the intermediate crimps. Tried that varaint but did not climb it up to now. For 7A the variation with intermediate is super soft

Awesome boulder!