Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
IXc | ★★ Vaya con Dios (Vaya con dios (RP)) | 10 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Jul 2018 | ||||
IXb | ★★ Hartz IV und der Tag gehört dir (Hartz4 und der Tag gehört dir (RP)) - with Sfinn | 55m, 9 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★ Stahlkante | 70m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 25th Jun 2011 | |||||
VIIIc VIIIb | ★★★ Heißer Draht ins Jenseits (Heißer Draht ins Jenseits (RP)) | 50m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Jul 2018 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Heißer Draht ins Jenseits (RP) | 50m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★ Stahlkante - with LL | 70m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Heißer Draht ins Jenseits | 50m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Heißer Draht ins Jenseits - with Elmo | 50m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | |||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Heißer Draht ins Jenseits | 50m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
VIIIa | ★ Eisenmann | 70m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 25th Jun 2011 | |||||
VIIIa | ★ Eisenmann - with Sarah | 70m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
Schöne Route bei der man allerdings ein wenig darauf achten sollte, was man greift oder tritt, denn einiges ist lose.
Leider hat sich ein Kleinstgriff in der garstigen Rinne links vom 4. Ring verabschiedet, was einen ordentlichen Flug nach sich zog. Nichtsdestotrotz 87. Begehung.
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VIIIa | ★ Eisenmann | 70m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | |||||
VIIIc | ★ Saxen flaxen (Saxen flaxen (RP)) | 20m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★ Mahnbescheid (Mahnbescheid (RP)) | 20m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★★ Gemeinschaftsweg (Gemeinschaftsweg (RP)) - with LL | 70m, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIb | ★★ Aehligweg | 60m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 25th Jun 2011 | |||||
VIIa | ★★ Westkante | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Jul 2018 | ||||
VIIb | ★★ Aehligweg | 60m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★ Westwand | 50m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb | ★★ Westwand (RP) - with Elmo | 50m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | |||||
VIIIa | ★★ Dietrichweg - with Raimund, Jenni | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Most people climb "Dietrichweg Dungervariante" as it seems, because it's a little easier (supposedly). The common crux seems to be to clip the first ring, though. It was apparently set from a "Baustelle", but it's unclear how this is possible. Climbed freely, you have to do a pull-up on mediocre, roundish holds (big ones, though) and lock off to clip the ring. There might be a good sling a little bit lower on the right but I didn't find it. From the ring it's an easy traverse to big holds on the left, then directly up to the second ring, where I brought up my second. The upper half starts off with a delicate friction traverse on tiny footholds, with barely anything to hold on to. From the first bigger hold in the crack on the left, you can place one or two tiny, but great slings. I didn't have any idea how to proceed from there and my feet started to hurt, so I reached over to the left into the other crack, which brought me into yet another perceived dead end. Put yet another sling in the left crack, then dared an athletic move with a tiny foothold and heelhook to my left hand, which worked out. Unclipped the left sling and placed a better one higher up. The rest of the crack is a great reward: juggy, getting easier meter by meter, with a final big sling placement below the last bulge. What a route. Can't even imagine how they could have climbed this in 1920.
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VIIIc | ★★ Alter Weg | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
VIIIb ~VIIIa | ★★ Westkante - with Rolf, Olaf | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★ Dietrichweg | 9m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||||
too hot
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VIIa Hard | ★★ Westkante - with Franta Kaván, LL | 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIb | ★★ Aehligweg - with Krupajz | 60m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||||
VIIIa | ★★ Strubichkante - with David X | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th May 2024 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg (oU) | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Oct 2007 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg (oU) | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Mon 19th Aug 1991 | |||||
IV VI | ★★ Alter Weg | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sun 13th Jul 2014 | ||||
Zum Fürchten im Vorstieg
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V VI | ★★ Alter Weg (Alter Weg (oU)) - with Vroni, Christine | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 14th Sep 2019 | ||||
VIIc | ★★★ Rostige Wand | 60m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg (oU) | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Sep 2020 | ||||
Hochachtung jedem Vorsteiger🤪
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IV VI | ★★ Alter Weg | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | ||||
IV | Alter Weg - with Günther Lehmann | 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 27th Jul 1980 | |||||
VI | ★★ Alter Weg - with Malte, Katja | 40m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★ Stolleriss - with Franta Kaván, LL, OŠ | 22m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIIb | Direkte Nordwestwand | 7m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Crap | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIIa | ★★ Stolleriss - with vilda_hkvdf | 22m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIc | ★★★ Rostige Wand - with Krupajz | 60m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||||
V VI | ★★★ Ostweg - with Julika Hallmann | 70m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | ||||
Ein 60m Seil reicht gerade so zur Plattform des AW. Besser nachholen für Kommunikation und wegen Seilzug...
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V VI | ★★★ Ostweg - with David X | 70m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Aug 2020 | ||||
Chimney extravaganza. Powerful start (I bridged the first section) to gain the narrow chimney. Protection here and there, but not too much. For a chimney, it's really varied climbing, with lots of hold shapes and movement types. Marvellous belay below the final crack/chimney with 40 meters of air under your feet.
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III | ★★ Alter Weg | 50m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Sep 2020 | ||||
Für ne III ist der Kamin ganz schön sportlich 😄
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V VI | ★★★ Ostweg - with Paula K. | 70m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Apr 2021 | ||||
Wunderschöne, sehr lange Kamintour, mit Hang zur Extravaganz - immer wieder Riss- und Wandstücke, die dazu einladen dem Kamin zu entfliehen. Fast überall mit Knotenschlingen sehr gut abzusichern, vorrangig 8-10er, seltener auch 5er.
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V | ★★ Alter Weg | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 27th Jul 1980 | |||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Malte, Katja | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
VIIb Easy | ★★★ Südostkante - with Franta Kaván, LL, OŠ, SZ | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
the best route to the summit
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VIIb | Nordwestwand | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Don't Bother | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Franta Kaván, LL, OŠ | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIb | ★★★ Südostkante - with vilda_hkvdf | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg - with vilda_hkvdf | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIa | ★ Alter Weg - with Franz Kl., Sandra | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 10th May 2015 | |||||
VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | Mon 5th Jun 1995 | |||||
VIIa | ★ Nordwestverschneidung | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 25th Jun 2011 | ||||||
VIIb | ★ Südostwand | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jul 2019 | |||||
V | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
IV | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
IV V | ★★ Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | |||||
Fiese Handrissübung
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VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle | 50m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | ||||
V | ★★★ Südweg | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jul 2020 | ||||
3P with decent sling placements, recommended
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IV | ★★ Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jul 2020 | |||||
Don't let the grade fool you - an adventure. Recommended.
#barefoot
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V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Chris | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2020 | |||||
anstrengend vorallem der Einstieg
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V | ★★ Südostweg - with Chris | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2020 | |||||
anstrengender Faustriss/ Handriss auf ersten 10m , Ufos liegen
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VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle - with David X | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Aug 2020 | ||||
Varied climbing in perfect rock. Interesting diagonal chimney (unprotected of course) start to the first ring, then phenomenal ribs with friction footholds to the second, and an airy friction slab arête to the top (good knot to the left of the arête after 5 or 6 meters from the third ring!).
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VIIIa | ★★ Direkte Neujahrskante (Dir. Neujahrskante) | 25m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | ||||
VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | ||||
V | ★★★ Südweg - with Sandra | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
Sensationell !!
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V | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jun 2007 | ||||
V | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | ||||
VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle - with Alex | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2021 | ||||
VIIc | ★ Lange Kante Einstiegsvariante (EV zur Langen Kante (oU)) - with Eva | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 9th May 2021 | |||||
Unterstützungsstelle am 1. Ring nur bei ausreichender Größe (>1,85) mit ordentlich zerren und schieben machbar. Ansonsten recht moralische Tour...paar gute dünne Schlingen liegen.
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VIIa | ★★ Ameisenriss (Ameisenriß) - with Eva, Marcel | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th May 2021 | |||||
VIIc | ★★ Probierstube | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2021 | |||||
Riss ist besser und schöner als er aussieht.
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VIIc | ★ ABS - with Eva | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Mon 10th May 2021 | |||||
Die ersten 12m Rissverschneidung sind nicht ohne, es liegt aber einiges und klemmt auch sehr gut!
Im Anschluss top gesichert (3R) an schöner Wand. 78. Begehung.
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V | ★★★ Südweg | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st May 2021 | ||||
VIIa | Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 27th Jul 1980 | ||||||
VIIc | Abschied - with Otti | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 21st Sep 1980 | ||||||
VIIa | Alter Weg | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 21st Sep 1980 | ||||||
III | Alter Weg Variante - with Uwe | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 21st Sep 1980 | ||||||
VIIIc | ★★ !Direkte Strubichkante | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 30th Mar 2021 | |||||
XIa | ★ Orang-Utan | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||||
V | ★ !Kurze Kante | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | |||||
Komplett ungesichert
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V | ★ Alter Weg - with Jenni, Raimund | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Great line, a crack dihedral that looks easier than it is. Especially the top part, where the crack turns into a steep groove, requires some effort. #barefoot
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V | ★ Alter Weg - with Jenni, Raimund | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
The steep wall in the lower half is quite chossy, but easy (and can be protected quite well). The interesting part is getting into the upper groove, which requires hard thinking, especially for the grade. My solution was more painful than hard, so I guess it's viable for grade V.
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V |
Nordwestkante
- with
Raimund
1
2
| 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Second(!) ascent of this route from 1957. As you can imagine, the adventure factor of this one was maxed out. Basically no protection in the first pitch (a wide shoulder crack, later narrow chimney) and extremely dirty on top of that. I was quite glad that Raimund led it, wouldn't have dared to. Raimund brought me up on the best belay he could improvise (three wonky trees and a mediocre sling in the crack). The guidebook here then says you have to build a human pyramid on the left, then climb a wall to the arête on the right. After some vain attempts from Raimund, I gave it a shot and with some sketchy moves away from Raimund's shoulders, I reached a sort of secure position with my hand in a wafer-thin undercling and my feet on the least crumbly pieces of rock I could find. I was quite surprised to find exactly there the remains of a metal shaft. We assume that the first ascensionists placed it there with the intention of putting a ring in, but didn't have any rings left, and after completing the climb without it, they realized it's "only grade V", so they were ashamed to add the ring and left just the shaft. Lucky us, because without that shaft, I wouldn't have dared to continue. Placed another sling in a brittle rock tunnel, wrapped a runner around a chossy chicken head, then finally made the move to the right and rescued myself to a tree (which, according to my partner, wouldn't have held a fall as well, but I think it would have :-D). From there it got much easier, but still the dirt and vegetation made it a sketchy endeavour. Took us so long that we had to hurry quite a bit to catch the last bus.
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V | ★ Alter Weg - with Torsten Schierz | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | |||||
V | ★★★ Südweg | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | |||||
VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle - with Torsten Schierz | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 31st May 1997 | |||||
V ~V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Malte | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
VIIb | ★★ Schmied und Geselle - with Malte, Katja | 35m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
V | ★ Alter Weg - with Malte, Katja | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
VIIIb | Durststrecke | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | ||||||
VIIb | Nordweg | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | ||||||
V | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
V ~VI | ★ Alter Weg - with Franta Kaván, LL | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
V ~VI | ★ Alter Weg - with Franta Kaván, LL | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
VIIc | Leuchtkäfer | 8m | Sächsische Schweiz | Crap | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
V ~VI | ★ Alter Weg - with vilda_hkvdf | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
V ~VI | ★ Alter Weg - with vilda_hkvdf | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 |