Ascents in Kleine Gans having Beta

Zum 1. R. eher unzureichend gesichert. 1 Kevlar und eine verspannte 6er(eher schlecht)

In 3. SL umgedreht wegen Regen

Jen spodek, zbytek je sr***

k 8. kruhu, vršek (V) už jsem lezl

Keine schlinge gelegt, besonders aufpassen beim clippen und anklettern vom 2.R. nach 3.R linkshaltend z.G.

Mit nachholen am Ring

v.o.g.

Short, sandy, hardly protectable.

Crispy at the start, vegetated at the top.

Tricky topout.

Broke off the first hold right after the start. I took this as a warning...

Just too sandy for my taste...

Surprisingly hard to find holds on the other side.

quite dirty and short

was ein grandioser weg, oben raus falsch ausgestiegen durch ziemlich schweren überhang. trozdem genuss ohne ende.

42 beg +-

broke a hold in easy terrain, otherwise it would be flash

80 Beg

"AW"

Als Überfall geklettert daher Schwierigkeit V

I can't belive there is no star in Rölkeführer

poor material despite it looks quite good from ground

Exposed line with a glorious finish. Didn't know that there's a first pitch, seems to be rarely done nowadays anyway. The start is a bit sandy but it gets better soon, good rock tunnel after a few meters, then reasonable slings every now and then. It's true that the route has been demolished quite a bit already, but most of the bigger structures are still solid and the climbing and the view make up for the visual appearance of some parts of the wall. Two slightly powerful steeper parts, with the last moves to the ring being the most strenuous (and here you need to be a bit careful, too, the rib is really thin). Incredible finish in dark black and perfectly solid rock, with around 80 meters of air beneath your feet.

Easy to the big ledge, then slightly airy traverse to the arête (someone got their sling stuck in the big but not so solid rock tunnel on the right, couldn't get it out either). Nice climbing along the rib with a good sling at the end, easy slab moves to the top.

Easy chimney, nice traverse and one or two slightly bold moves to the ring (belay!) Crux afterwards on smaller holds and a holdless move onto the slab.

Vorstieg wurde abgewechselt

Vorstieg wurde abgewechselt

Sehr schöne Kaminkletterei 60m Seil ist ein muss!

Beim Absatz zur Querung gibt es eine kleine SU, welche zumindest mentale Hilfestellung für die Querung bietet.

Rather VIIc - the moves around bolt

Quite good slings between the bolts. I’ve climbed on sharp sunlight, not the best idea but hey

Tricky

Mutiger Quergang

Bis zum 2. R spannend, gut gesichert und abwechslungsreicher Riss. Danach eher schulterrissig, aber mit UFOs immer noch akzeptabel gesichert.

Bis 3.R, zurückgesprungen

70.Begehung