Ascents in Lehnsteig having Beta

Kakani ve žlábku=pytel

Jenom k poslednimu

Ohne Unterstützung und mit Einstiegsvariante

EV not recommended

not my day I guess

Nachstieg vog

Soloed the first pitch after a quick abseil, then soloed the second pitch with rope attached. Nice little chimney/offwidth practice at the start of the second pitch.

Gestartet von der Scharte aus, nach der Abseile des zweiten Lehnsteigturmes.

Took us a while to find the start. Funny stroll through the chimney at the beginning, then some intimidating meters across the chasms to the big slab with belay ring. Fiddled around with a sling for a while from there, then realized there's a huge jug after the first move. From the ledge (you can extend the abseil anchor far right), it's an interesting steep groove to a ring and enjoyable slab climbing to the top.

Solo with rope attached. Very nice and quite safe. The upper part looks intimidating, but there are lots of hidden jugs. Second pitch from the balcony is just a formality.

Looooong traverse around half the tower. There are a few good placements for slings, but I didn't want to introduce drag, so I didn't put any protection in. You can more easily belay your second, too, by walking along the top of the tower.

One of the best VIIa's I have climbed

Reeealy hard. Could be VIIIc-IXa RP. Sustained for 30m and exhausting physically and psychically. Hard clipping too.

Erwähnung zur Südrinne Schwierigkeit V

Fall at 3.R 😀

erste 7a mit geteilter F hrung

#MW74

52.Beg

unten schlecht gesichert in den Cruxzügen

Beg

Ausstieg über Ende des Strubichwegs (am Ring in ES gerade nach oben).

DV of Südwestwand. Use the first ring of Himmelsrichtung.

#meisterweg

Mit Direktausstieg nach dem Ring

Short slab climbing route. You need to keep at the edge for VIIa. If you keep to the right it's easier.

The first meters in the chimney are the only difficulty.

starting with route "Himmelsrichtung" creates less ground fall potential.

layback is nice to climb, hard to protect - don't fall.

Super Weg

total gezittert, vom Absturz (tödlich) in der Alpen noch gezittert

nicht ganz fair, nicht ganz so schwer

schönes, aber nasses Problem

Schlüsselstelle ungesichert