Ascents in Schrammsteine

only as a finish after Kachelmann

#meisterweg

Nice slab climb. There's a mediocre chicken head a few meters above the ring, but I wouldn't recommend falling anyway. From the ridge, it's like "Alter Weg" to the summit (well, not quite, because the summit shouldn't be climbed any more, looks hideous, too) on good holds. I was told that these few meters were quite exposed, but it didn't feel like that to me.

Classic chimney adventure. Quite well-protected start, you can place big slings just before the entrance to the chimney, which is good because that is the hardest part of the route. Quite a narrow gap to squeeze through, luckily there are a few footholds on the left wall and there's even one bigger hold on the inside. After that, it's 40 meters of unprotected chimney. After around 15 meters, it gets wider and there's a big rib in the back. I made my upward progress by jamming my fist and left leg into the left crack while jamming my right foot toe to heel into the right one. Certainly possible to just stem all the way, but this somehow felt safer. I set up belay on the ledge after 30 meters. The last 10 meters of chimney are pure stemming bliss, almost entirely without any disturbing footholds. :-D From the "middle finger", it's one small step and an easy groove to the main summit.

Habe beim ersten versuch den unteren überhängenden riss im aw umgangen, dann nochmal ausgeboldert und geschafft. 4 sau anstrengende züge auf den ersten 3m (im normalfall ungesichert). Ich schätze den einstig auf nen V4-5 bolder. Der hand bis klapperfaust riss bis zum schlingen stand ist eine super 6, die Reibung oben raus eher eine 3. toller weg mit reichlich Publikums Verkehr samt Ratschlägen (Teils tatsächlich hilfreich).

1h 23min, alle seillängen einzeln und nicht im wechsel.

Das Stück zum ersten Ring ist nicht ganz ohne und schlecht zu sichern.

Amazing line. It's already a bit surreal standing at the start on that massive flake just hanging there, with a chasm almost like a Bergschrund between it and the wall. The difficult and scary part is right at the start. The first ring is quite low, and after that you need to just power through the hand crack and not get irritated by that one little section where the jams are a little shaky. Draws up diagonally to the right from the second ring, with juggy climbing and good protection, then up towards a nasty little offwidth that ends up in a finishing chimney.

What a line. Basically divided into three parts. First, 30 meters of unprotectable double chimney/dihedral to a big ledge with some decent pro. Another 20 meters of offwidth crack dihedral with a few mediocre sling placements, and to finish it off, a narrow, exhausting chimney section. Hats off to Raimund for leading this.

Harder than I thought it would be. The start might prove difficult for smaller people. The rest is easy, though.