Ascents in Kalymnos as sport by o_g

Nice route, not sure why people dont seem to be climbing it (im only going by the lack of ticks on thecrag). Long, sustained, with the crux battling the pump to get to the chain. Do yourself a favour and get on it.

Classic may be a slight stretch, but I had a blast on this. Probably the route I have enjoyed most on this trip. Takes a fingery slabby wall, then climbs a 20m long single tufa system that gets fatter the higher you go. I only just managed to catch its tail, and layback up it to a rest, then had moments of indecision on the steep fingery crux on its left wall, before hurling myself onto its back in a moment of desperation, and somehow sticking on then riding the annaconda to the chain

Every climber on the island seemed to be at this crag today (mostly seiging tufa king pumped). No one on verikoko though! It was really balancy and sequency at the top. Thought I was off a couple of times, but held it together.

Great effort to o/s this. Really hard, really pumpy, stuck with it and got there by the skin of my teeth. Then cruised kerveros..... 7a?

A bit of routefinding and restfinding required. Crux where it should be, right at the top.

Some seepage low. Enjoyable. Funky wide bridging.

While others focused on the iconic tufa routes in the centre of the crag, I focused instead on the techy bridgy slabby goodness on the right. This felt tough for the grade.

Didnt look like much from the ground, but interesting and super technical steep slab.

Some poxy rock down low, and the bolts are starting to look pretty rusty. Nice climbing in the tufas in the top half.

Excellent sustained climbing. Almost came off the top, when I went a bit high before moving right. Just able to reverse and recomsider. Classy Freddie Blassie.

Got through the crux rootlet with some flexibility testing high stepping. Then weaved up the tufa system. Thought it was in the bag at the top of the tufa. Looked for the usual jugsto the chain..... No jugs..... Grey bulge with small crimps. Big problem! Just managed to squeek through. Felt hard for the grade to me.

Pretty amazing. Basically climbing horizontally out through a nest of giant tufa. The chain clip was epic. I ended up grabbing them to clip. Would be a better route if the chains were lowered. Cleaning was nails!

Rock looks a bit dirty / grotty from the ground, and while clean, there is something about the rock on the route that is a little unpleasant. Climbs well though. The initial thin wall looks blank from the ground, but has big holds that are reachy. The rooflet and sidepull wall above required some commitment.

Matt loved it! The seat and thin pipe above the seat are ace.

Long and sustained. I guess i wasnt as injured as I thought. Sweet!

Technical slab to start, then easy till high overhang. Harder moves, but less pumpy than Satyros.

Maybe a sandbag at 6c+, or maybe just not a good warm-up. Probably my best tick of the trip. Highly technical climbing on good rock. Same difficulty all the way.

Awesome extension. Found this pretty pumpy, and only had just enough juice to hold on to the small holds where it slabs over at the chains.

Steep bouldery start, then a balancy wall with some sharp holds.

Jezus. Thought id continue up this for the warm up. Felt absolutly nails hard, thought I was off three times. Ended up wedged in a prickly trench trying to recover before fighting to the chains drencehed in sweat. Possibly not the ideal warm up. Although I cant deny I was warm after it.

Really had to think through the sequency crux at 3/4 height.

Tidy.

Not bad. Like a lot of the routes on this wall, you need to ooze and udge your way through a few sections.

Afternoon re-warm up. Got me warm alright. Had to crack pretty hard on a back two two finger pocket at 1/3rd height which was a shock to the system. The overhanging top half was awesome. incut jugs for the win.

Finally, a balancy wall climb! Nice to be able to take time and think through sequences.

Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.

Quality reduced by the last 10m of rambling slab. Excellent first part. Lots of technical shallow pocket sequences between good rests.

Brilliant as soon as it steepens. Feels classy moving between pockets.

Fun overhang, but sharp unpleasent rock.

Technical and thin. Felt crazy hard, but last route of long day.

A real pumper. I was blowing like a steam train.

Worthwhile.

I thought this was a bit dirty and scrappy. Felt pretty hard for the grade too.

Good route, similar in style to its neihbours, although at least the crux is not at the top for once.

Has an outstanding 15?m section on white marble like stone. Other people doing this route seemed to be belaying from the ground, not the top of the access ramp.

The grey rock in the top half was super wet today. Needed the breeze!

Good technical face, with a physical blocky roof.

This extension is excellent, with technical steep slabbing on an immaculate rounded arete a long way above the ground. An 80m rope will get you back to the ground. Borderline classic, and feels technically a grade or two easier than the other 6c's at the crag.

Got a bit scared trying to climb the start where the Topo shows it going. No bolts and a 10m ground fall didn't appeal, so retreated. Turns out the route angles in from 10m to the right. Great climbing in the top 10 metres.

Got a bit confused about whether to go left or right at the top.

This crag has a lot of interesting rock, nice flake face holds, featured pockets. Really interesting climbing. With shade and easy access it will be really popular, but I think the rock type here will polish quickly which is a shame.

Time to try something steeper. Looked like it would have lots of knee bars so I strapped up and set out. Awkward cruxy mantle at the start, then cool overhanging feature. Spent 15 seconds trying to find a knee bar, realised it was terrible and I am still incompetent at knee bars. Considered trying again, but just abandoned the thought and gunned to the top. Pumped at the anchors, had to climb high to find a jug I could clip from.

There will be no end to mythos consumption on this trip. Great climb. Punchy commiting moves down low, some power needed at the bulge leaving the flake system, them a delicate traverse and anchor clip that I almost dropped.

Had to try hard, very hard. Felt harder than the 6c+ two routes to the right. Thought I was off for three moves on the thin black wall at half height, and was on a close run countdown timer on a clip higher up. The low clips (where the fence could be a factor in a fall are off good holds).

Banger. Great rock up a juggy tufa flow to arm bar rest below crux steepening. Drop a gear and commit to the sustained and sequency section above. Parkyn had the nerve to stop to chalk up in the middle of the crux, where I had just had to sprint to the rest.

Another great addition. Bouldery start, with a committing deadpoint to a blind sloping dish that luckily had good texture. Then an excellent broccoli slab to a rest below the steep finish. Save some biceps strength for the anchor clip, or better, look for a knee bar.

Warming up (felt hard) for Amphora

Really had to think my way up this loooong pitch.

Great route. Incut pockets abound. Classic.

Great moves!

Nice warmup. Nice slab at top.

Polished and desperate.

We forgot the guide, so it was a bit of guesswork about which routes to try.