Ascents in Kalymnos having Beta

Nice view from the top

have walked off the back of this through symplegades which was much easier than reversing the via ferata and walking down the scree. took about half the time too! and that's with walking along the high road to get home.

Insane 40m roof, my hat is off to the bolter. What an epic that would have been.

Got all the way past the missing draw but couldn't clip the next one. Massive fall wheeeeeeeee! Will get back on it one day

Much harder in July due to humidity.

Got to bolt no. 12! Aided the undercling crux (crazy move) and lowered at 2nd crux. I'll be back.

#2go

high point -- 17 draws up. Very hot and humid

Still can't believe this went. Even though the first time I got on this was in 2017 according to my notes, this was the 7th try. I usually give it one try per trip (if that). Such a cool route, but I am happy not to have to tie in and stare at that endless line of draws receding into the sky again

First 8a onsight. 35m tufafest with kneebars everywhere. Took me well over an hour to figure shit out. Spent most of that in the crux sacrificing calves and skin trying to figure it out with wethe feet:') wish more rooves like this existed

One move short ..

An EPIC adventure

My best onsight performance ever. 1h30' on 45°/50° impressive overhang cave - this monster route fits perfectly my climbing style and this Os was my dream for two years... a long time waiting for perfect meteo and phisical conditions. (Pure onsight, no info, no kneepads)

So happy that Danny convinced me to try this. Linked all the moves with no falls, first or second try. Honestly didn’t feel a move harder than like V3/4? Just one massive endurance fest on a route perfectly suited to my abilities. Can’t wait to see progress on this rig. First time trying an 8a and honestly one of the top 3 climbs I’ve ever been on.

2nd go?!! I’m in total disbelief of what just happened. Like…how? When I first tried 3 weeks ago I needed 2 days of rest JUST from going bolt to bolt. Maybe the most onsight-able of the grade, anywhere.

Definitely soft, given that I’ve never even done a 7c+ clean. This would MAYBE get 7c/+ in other Balkan countries like Romania or Serbia…but idk where else you can climb a 40m monster roof with 28 QD’s, with moves no harder than V3/4. If you’re fit for this style, it’ll feel like a marathon 7c.

Anyhooters, grade is the least important thing about this climb. 1000 stars.

40m of roofy jugs and kneebars. Two distinct bouldery sections but no moves that are too hard. I wouldn’t give this 8a with how many great rests there are. But the route does suit me well. Such an amazing climb regardless!! An adventure through tufas and stalactites.

Had a play after Raph onsighted this beast, so fun

Got to the crux move on the onsight, 1 bolt from the top, 50m up. Just immense.

Fell off the final move again at the 50m mark. Gutted. Found better foot beta.

Top went into the sun but was well motivated to not fall again. 55m of epic steepness capped with a slabby wall crux move. Yowza! [4]

Had to fight like a bugger. Super dooper long, almost 50m.

Did the start of the 7a instead and linked it into the extension. Rad line none the less:D

More like caving than climbing. You can't really compare it to anything. My hardest OS on paper, and I did it in the sun, very un-me.

Hardest onsight fight in ages. 45m pitch, epic. 23 clips, I had 18 draws.

The one I came for and save to the end almost. Dam glad I did as it got the onsight!! Dam long and upside down, was getting dizzy towards the end from being in a roof so long! A damp crux but I snagged it.

This route was something I wanted to get on. Steep overhanging tufas and a really powerful route.......endurance fest plus...couple of takes up to the seventh draw....then fell off.

Got a good high point on the second shot. All the way through to the seventh clean and fell off going through to the eighth. Happy Days!

So happy that I did this long route at the end of my trip, hard fight through the first crux, and used everything I have for the last four clips till the anchor. Super cool and endurance route!

guessing at the date.

Guessing at the date

Wow! Never climbed anything like it! 3rd RP attempt. 1st attempt ended with nose touching the anchor! Thanks Cathy, Mike and Britta for the epic belays.

Had to hang all the draws on this monster in the quest for the mega extension.

Second go and actually fell just before the anchor on the first pitch. Smoked. Good fitness training though!

W/Lee & Sam Dogged my way to the top this time

Questing for the extension.

On the way to the extension send.

Just getting a holiday snap

W/Avi

The second pitch is very good and interesting, but feels a bit soft as 7b+.

Spectacular line, It's really long. Feel like like 4 7a+'s on top of each other... I sat on at least 15 tufas.

A good workout! Never had so much fun dogging. The position this route gets you in is incredible!!! Great to know that it's doable for me. Maybe 5 hangs tonthe anchor. Draws in and out by John casually hiking up this.

Sunset session putting draws in for tomorrow. Fell two bolts from the anchor. Several hangs before.

RP 3rd go overall. QDs in from last evening.

Essentially two routes in one. A stellar, very overhanging 20 to 25m 7b/+ with big moves, big holds and therefore tons of possible kneebars (Pad right or both!), an awkward spot to reach two mushrooms (reaching the left mushroom from the left seemed the easiest) and the boulder crux on a good righthand sidepull, a possible left heelhook and some mediocre holds (Could be around FB 6B+) in the obvious blank spot of the route, lead to two full recovery rests: A big, skinny stalactite you can stem against and a perfect, obvious saddle (full rest) just above. The remainder is a very good 6c/7a also with a lot of possibilities for kneebars but demanding some creativity. Several options for the anchor clip. I used a right hand sidepull.