Ascents in Kalymnos by o_g having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Upskill lifetime support plan activated, with draw placement and tick marks courtesy of Australian Moon Daddy making life easy. Classic route that requires technique and route reading, with a sting in the tail that makes taking some time resting before committing important. Grades here are evolving... Not 7b, I don't think I'm fit enough for 7a+, but perfect route for my style being all about forearms and feet so could be 7a/7a+...

Quality reduced by the last 10m of rambling slab. Excellent first part. Lots of technical shallow pocket sequences between good rests.

Would be classic if it didn't fight for independence with Elies at the crux. On-sight fight foiled at the crux. Tried to go direct. At the crux, the bolts are one foot left of your left hip, and their is a ticked sidepull jug for the right hand at 2pm. When you grab it, a bolt on Elies is at your right elbow. So it's all a bit compressed at the crux.... Easily second go.

First day of cooler northerly conditions. Went for the on-sight but badly misread the top. No problem second go. First and last thirds excellent, middle third detracts.

Lovely route. First half requires some route finding up lots of positive big pockets. Fell on the thin face crux on the on-site (along with a lot of others going by the mass of chalk and show rubber at the crux). Found a sequence and did well to send second go.

The first ten metres of steep tufa climbing is classic. Where the angle eases, it's still good climbing to the chains, but much easier, maybe 6a+?.

Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.

Rock looks a bit dirty / grotty from the ground, and while clean, there is something about the rock on the route that is a little unpleasant. Climbs well though. The initial thin wall looks blank from the ground, but has big holds that are reachy. The rooflet and sidepull wall above required some commitment.

Climbed this well. Long steep moves to a rest, then a technical headwall. Managed to get lost and punt of the headwall, but sorted it out next go.

Another great addition. Bouldery start, with a committing deadpoint to a blind sloping dish that luckily had good texture. Then an excellent broccoli slab to a rest below the steep finish. Save some biceps strength for the anchor clip, or better, look for a knee bar.

Banger. Great rock up a juggy tufa flow to arm bar rest below crux steepening. Drop a gear and commit to the sustained and sequency section above. Parkyn had the nerve to stop to chalk up in the middle of the crux, where I had just had to sprint to the rest.

Had to try hard, very hard. Felt harder than the 6c+ two routes to the right. Thought I was off for three moves on the thin black wall at half height, and was on a close run countdown timer on a clip higher up. The low clips (where the fence could be a factor in a fall are off good holds).

Excellent reachy climbing between spaced jugs, except for the difficult to read crux sequence where there is some T Rex moves on slopey pinches. Easily 2nd shot.

There will be no end to mythos consumption on this trip. Great climb. Punchy commiting moves down low, some power needed at the bulge leaving the flake system, them a delicate traverse and anchor clip that I almost dropped.

This crag has a lot of interesting rock, nice flake face holds, featured pockets. Really interesting climbing. With shade and easy access it will be really popular, but I think the rock type here will polish quickly which is a shame.

Time to try something steeper. Looked like it would have lots of knee bars so I strapped up and set out. Awkward cruxy mantle at the start, then cool overhanging feature. Spent 15 seconds trying to find a knee bar, realised it was terrible and I am still incompetent at knee bars. Considered trying again, but just abandoned the thought and gunned to the top. Pumped at the anchors, had to climb high to find a jug I could clip from.

Every climber on the island seemed to be at this crag today (mostly seiging tufa king pumped). No one on verikoko though! It was really balancy and sequency at the top. Thought I was off a couple of times, but held it together.

In the guide as an extension but would be better to climb it as a seperate route from the rock&roll cave. Steep and insecure moves above the ledge then awesome steep underclings and sidepulls. I dogged up the first three draws to eliminate the ledge fall before ticking.

Enjoyed this one. Lots of locking off good positive jugs.

The initial steep bouldery wall is easier than it appears, and the thin wall up high is technical and thoughtful.

Good addition. Felt brutally hard on the shared top section where it steepens and the holds are polished. Still hot from the walk up, and immediately covered in a sheen of sweat, it was a slippery flash pumped battle to the chain.

Tidy warm up.

This felt nails. Sequence of small sharp crimps over a bulge with not great feet. I wouldn't have argued if someone told me it was 6c+.

Had some nice moves in sections, but was a bit to sharp to be pleasant.

The artist previously known as Captain heel hook. Heel hook deployed and successful.

Pretty amazing. Basically climbing horizontally out through a nest of giant tufa. The chain clip was epic. I ended up grabbing them to clip. Would be a better route if the chains were lowered. Cleaning was nails!

Got through the crux rootlet with some flexibility testing high stepping. Then weaved up the tufa system. Thought it was in the bag at the top of the tufa. Looked for the usual jugsto the chain..... No jugs..... Grey bulge with small crimps. Big problem! Just managed to squeek through. Felt hard for the grade to me.

Had to pull very hard on the crux.

I remember nothing, other than it was great.

Waited all day for the route to be free, and pounced at the very end of the day. This route seems to bounce between 7a+ and 7b, feels straightforward for 7b, but who am I to argue with the new guide.

Warm up continuation.

Apparently I have done this before, and thought it "good". I'm upgrading it to very good. Perhaps the 10 years of traffic have smoothed some prickly holds, or perhaps I'm now more easily pleased. I made the crux hard for myself, by reading the best sequence of good one pad sidepulls with some hip twists using two obvious two pad flat 45 degree footers that were glistening glassily, and deciding that my trust level was low and I would revert to some good old fashioned front on mingging crimping.

More face climbing. Sweet.

Great Route. A little polished, but still well worthwhile. I found a couple of sections very hard for the grade. Was also struggling with sore finger and thumb pads from squeezing some miserable crimps earlier in the day.

Good moves, but painfully sharp.

Picked this as a warm-up based on the time tested criteria that it's about the right grade, and was one of the only routes free in a seathing mass of humanity. Looked a poxy slabby ramble weaving through bushes. Actually, was great climbing.

Really enjoyed this. First few metres are a bit sharp and awkward untill you get to the clean orange rock under the capping roof. Them it's lovely technical steep off vertical climbing.

Finally, a balancy wall climb! Nice to be able to take time and think through sequences.

Afternoon re-warm up. Got me warm alright. Had to crack pretty hard on a back two two finger pocket at 1/3rd height which was a shock to the system. The overhanging top half was awesome. incut jugs for the win.

Another newish route. Hard to read crux, as it weaves around a bit and shares some holds with the route to the left. Has a cool sequence of blocky pinches.

Quick afternoon sugar rush in the shade. As the season winds down, there were "only" 36 climbers on Alani Wall and maybe 76 on the whole crag. One of the locals said 2 weeks before she had counted over 110 people at the whole crag. So elbow room increasing at the most popular crag on the island.

Ended up finishing up the extension on the route to the right. Great long pitch.

Quick half day before fleeing the island ahead of some predicted storms and ferry cancellation. Did this with a couple of sits. Nice tufa climbing.

Good climb. Start felt a bit goey as a warm up. Clipped an early bolt of a mono.

Real rope stretcher. Got to witness an amazing fight to the chains effort on the route to the left from a lady trying her first 6a and giving it everything. Great to see.

Was feeling cooked, so dogged up to see if I could work out an efficient sequence for the crux. All sorted. This route tends to bruise my fingers and thumbs from having to really mash them into a couple of holds.

My anticipated to the death on-sight fight lasted about 1.5 metres, ending in predictable failure on the steep bouldery start. Reading other comments, apparently people use something called a "knee bar", which sounds like cheating. I need to study the tactical genius of Parkyn. He is useless at spotting knee bars, but I had just seen him somehow manoeuver his way to the head of the queue on DNA and get to run a convenient top rope lap on someone else's rope, which was a remarkable effort. After a second failure on the start, I solved it but pulling on a quickdraw. The wall above is excellent, a little thin and sharp on a couple of moves, but engaging. Felt a little run out by Kalymnos standards, but safe falls.

New route, not in my 2019 guide, so just set sail without knowing anything about it. Sweet climbing on pocketed tufa flow, to sustained thin headwall up high. Technical footwork and endurance on small holds needed for the headwall, which I didn't have. Great Route.

A bit sharp and inconsistent. Ok as a warm up.

Scrappy first 5 metres, then classy gymnastic climbing up high.