Routes as sport in Java

All of the bolts in this line have been rebolted using a titanium bolt from Kak Nova Marselina.

Topo.

Topo.

Topo.

A long sport route through two roofs, reachy.

Short boulder/TR climb everyone does. 5b here.

Tree as anchor.

Leftmost route. 4 bolts, 2 slings.

Start to the right of "Bangsat", same finish. 5 bolts, 1 sling.

Start to four climbs in the middle of the cliff. 4 slings, 2 bolts.

Same start as "Kampret Lurus", traverse out to the left. 2 slings, 3 bolts.

Same start as "Kampret Treves". 2 bolts, 2 slings.

Same start as "Kampret", head up through the king line. 3 bolts, 2 slings.

Same start as "Juhi", traverse out right. 2 bolts, 3 slings. Video.

Start on the stalactite and go up through the roof.

Start to the right of "Supersemar". 4 bolts, 1 sling.

Maybe, it's already mined.

The route is intended for beginner to intermediate level.

More than 98 bolts. Bring lots of quickdraws. Hardest section on pitch 5.

Slab Climbing, various grades 5-7b+. 15 minutes from Badega Gunung Parang Village. Descent from anchor points in every pitch (45m). Reboltd in 2000.

7-9 pitches, grades 5a-7b+. 15 minutes from Badega Gunung Parang Village. Descent from anchor points in every pitch (45m). Rebolted in 2000.

FA was a seige style climb in 1987 by a group of seven high school students from Jakarta (Innosanto Nagara, Tommy Chandra, Syahrul Rachman, David Ruus, Heru, Arief Hendro, and Robbie Irfan), supported by climbers from the Bandung-based climbing organization, Skygers (the late Sandy Febianto, Jati Pranoto, and Erik Prasetya).

The first ascent took almost two weeks, fixing ropes daily at each high point. Ramset bolts hand-drilled on lead, so the easy parts are pretty runout and the hard parts (ie. the roof) are essentially a bolt ladder. The team ran out of bolts for the last four pitches of 5.4-5.6 climbing so the only protection on those pitches is single bolt anchors.

Not sure if the route has been repeated, and very unlikely it's been rebolted, so any protection you find at this point would be unusable.

Most obvious line up to the big roof on the West face of Mt. Parang. Where the gully meets the roof go right and then straight up the yellow overhanging face on the bolt run.

Video.

Video freeing the route.

First route on Bongkok. Climbed by Trupala 1987 in Expedition style. In 1988 bolted by Inno, Udin and Michel as a sport route. Rebolted in 2017 by the Paguyuboys.

Follows a fist sized crack on slabby terrain with lots of laybacking.

Video.

Starts as Sky Kong. Slab, crack, arete.

Old route on the slab made in the early 90's. Probably by Skygers with the usual Pakong hangers. Rebolted in september 2016.

Video.

A harder start onto the slab. With smaller hand/foot holds later on.

This route follows the left corner of Inno's Boulder. It's pretty tough to hang on the overhanging arête. First explored and bolted by Inno & Kresna (1988). It's not rebolted yet. But you can try it out by toprope. Beware for a big swing though when falling. When the real rain and lightning strikes, it provides shelter.

There are some bolted anchors on top of this boulder for toproping, but it's pretty dangerous to solo this boulder. The greens on top still need to be gardened as it keeps the tiny holds on top moisty.

Partially bolted, project.

Crack slab.

Slab wall with sloper hold.

Full crimping face wall.

Video.

Follow the left traverse crack and straight to the face in the upper section.

Into the crack. Video.

Video.