Ascents in Antro di Castelbianco having Beta

Sehr tricky und lange Züge

Felt Hard.

Im zweiten Versuch

Well, we couldn't get to the 2nd bolt. Was pretty overhanging. Don't know but seemed harder then 6a+.

The warm up eh? Nearly finished me.

Steep and not easy to onsight [3]

Guess who's back?

Raining

Some good pulls on good edges

2nd Go

Awesome! Need to get back some power.

climbing on sharp flakes and crimps with some cool moves on sidepulls

Face climb with powerful but cool moves on sharp holds. The Roc Pennavaire guidebook listed it as "Sua Alteza" - 6b+. 6c feels adequate though.

crimpy face climb on grey limestone

crimpy face climb with some tricky, powerful moves on underclings

crimpy face climb on grey limestone

face climb with a short, quite tough section on bad crimps.

Repeated. Warm up Very polished. Run outs

History of Castelbianco Not easy for the grade

Kinda scary but nice climbing

Hei, voll schwer im Onsight

Wenn man weiß wie ist's relativ einfach.

Kurz an meist guten Griffen. Man klippt immer relativ spät, deshalb etwas scary.

Am "Dach" von den Henkeln verführen lassen und viel zu weit nach links geklettert anstatt direkt an den guten Leisten hoch...

Kurz gesagt: verkackt

Kurz und knackig

2 schwerere Passagen, dank der fixen Exen gut einzuhängen

Vorm Umlenker direkt hoch und verkackt. Rechts war's dann easy

Und wieder total verlesen

Wenn man weiß wo man lang muss war's leichter als gedacht. Im ersten Go hätte ich das eher auf 7a+/7b geschätzt.

.

So satisfying to send it. A perfect day. 1.5 degrees, 1 hour of sun. An ascent made with surgical precision lowering down while the sun was disappearing. What a feeling to reach that jug... It's amazing to see the training progression on real rock! 5 days 2018 + 3 day 2107. Could go down faster. Always check all the possible beta!

#2go 2nd go Solo smontando il tiro mi sono chiesto come caz.. sono riuscito a tenere e tirare quelle saponette di réglette nel passo duro! Bella via!

#2go 2nd go Fortuna che son solo quattro spit, ma Aras Eleinad continua ad essere più dura

Avvistabile con la giusta temperatura ma non con i 25° di oggi

Props to Andrea Gallo for finding this line and Matteo for bolting and climbing it! Very nice route with good and powerful moves starting with a roof and finishing with a very overhanging wall! Took me a while to figure out all the moves. Came back today to finish it and found out a hold I used for resting and clipping broke off. Had to change beta and fortunately it worked! Felt slightly easier than 9a with the new betas. In my opinion could be 8c+9a. #soft

nice and crimpy, super happy for this happy and solid ascent.

Un tiraccio con piedi saponettosi

one of the ugliest pitch in castelbianco.

In catena si arriva gonfi come tacchini e la catena non è proprio messa lì facile facile da moschettonare!

2 tries today, nice power endurance route. Mind the fix quickdraw which not seems in very good conditions. Tried back in the days I guess a crimp on top was broken.

Spit dopo spit sono finito su Psycho Killer... Ma alla fine la linea che ho fatto era una figata!

Buon dio... 7a? #hard

#2go Sbagliatissimo scaldarcisi

Was destroyed from gozilla and couldnt enjoy the route, neither send it. Roof climbing on jugs