Routes in Veneto for selected grade

Around the corner in the left part of the wall as Via Dibona. To the left of Compay Segundo road. Then left. Old slings. http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html

Italian description e topo: https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/bastionemondeval/bastionemondeval.htm

Torre Anna west face

https://img.oastatic.com/img2/65022414/max/variant.jpg?revbust=64a0e93d

1. Start right from the plate, up and right trough cracks/corners on the ledge.

2. Ledge (join with the first pitch), go left, anchor is just below the crack.

3. Up the crack above the anchor, slightly right and up after the second piton.

4. Straight up from the anchor, layback, continue left. Anchor is at the bottom of the big chimney,

5. Climb on the right wall (on the edge), clip the sling and go left to the chimney. Continue in the chimney, to the anchor.

6. Climb in the chimney. After approx. 20m there is an anchor, but you can continue (climb on the left side) another 15m to the start of the most exposed pitch. The anchor is 3m deep in the chimney.

7. The coolest pitch (see the picture). Just go up, above the anchor keep going up and left to the outer side of the chimney. There are 2 pitons after 30m. You can belay from here. (In some topos the pitch is 40m.. so you can perhaps belay bit further somewhere below the stuck boulder)..

8. Go up the chimney to the stuck boulder. In some topos, after the boulder, you can climb on the right wall. However the rock is quite loose. I was told that it’s better to stay in the chimney..

Descend: There is probably more options. I will describe how we did it:

1. On the top of the tower on the south side there is anchor. Start rappelling and keep a bit left (if you are looking to the top) . You’ll see a new anchor after less than 30m..

2. Don’t rappel straight down. Keep left, you have to rappel to the west edge of the tower to the cairn. Not sure it this is less than 30m but it should be possible.. last few meters are easy

3. use an older anchor with a big ring on the west edge near the cairn, and rappel down to the saddle. There is an anchor (a bolt) in between (maybe after 15m) if you have double ropes, you can skip this and just rappel down..

4. Rappel down the couloir, the anchor is in less than 30m, on the left wall (if you are looking to the saddle)

5. Rappel down the couloir, 55m, the ring is on a big boulder in the couloir. If you have shorter rope, you can walk down, however there may be a lot of snow in the couloir in early summer (Jun, July)

6. Rappel down the couloir (40-50m), the bolt is on the right wall, connected with a sling with a ring in the couloir.

7. Final rappel, straight down.

Notes:

1. You don’t have to climb with the shoes, the start of the route is just 5min away from the couloir you will descend..

2. There are lot of stones in the couloir, the rappelling is quite dangerous if there are other parties descending.

Description and topo by Christoph Hainz at christoph-hainz.com

Online topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/import/topos/2133_Topo_2fd03b0c-0378-4a06-a43a-faa85c5e78b9_via%20miriam%20cinque%20torri.pdf

Pitons and threads at anchors. Avoid climbing below other parties as the dihedral channels rockfall. Topo and description at http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=285&id_tipologia=38

Start 10 m right of the normal route, then up to a crack and chimney line, which ends at the ring ledge

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route is indeed a popular and challenging route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route, also known as Terzo Spigolo climbing route, follows the prominent south ridge of Tofana di Rozes. It is considered one of the classic and demanding climbs in the Dolomites, offering a mix of technical climbing and exposed sections.

The route includes steep rock faces, exposed sections, and some chimney climbs, providing an exciting and physically demanding climbing experience.

The difficulty of the Alverà Pompanin route is graded as UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) V. The climbing route, 700 meters long, unfolds in 17 lengths with an elevation gain of 550 meters.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers a memorable and rewarding climbing experience, combining stunning views with a challenging ascent in the beautiful Dolomite landscape. Source Powrock

http://quartogrado.com/relazioni/COSTON%20AVERAU_Camino%20SO.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/elisabetta-und-mittlere-croda-negra/

Einstieg am Beginn der Schlucht (Aneroid 2480 m). Der erste Abbruch wird in der Mitte, von rechts nach links ansteigend, überklettert. Unter der nächsten Steilstufe auf einem Kriechbande etwa 20m nach rechts schwierig mit Benutzung eines Risses auf das nächsthöhere Band und auf ihm, zuletzt kriechend, wieder in die Schlucht zurück. Ein paar Meter absteigen und, erst in der Ecke links, dann nach rechts querend, schwierig über den nächsten Abbruch. Weiter bis zu einer Höhle (2540 m), aus der man durch ein Loch oben links hinausgelangt. Nun leichter über Geröll und durch eine Kaminreihe rechts auf die Scharte (2600 m) zwischen Punta di Frida und Kleinster Zinne.

Von der Scharte durch einen gelben Rill zuerst schwierig 25 m hinauf zu einem Felsköpfl in der Nordwand der Punta di Frida. Quergang 30 m nach rechts. (Durch die fortsetzung dies Querganges - zuerst auf das nächsttiefere Band absteigen - lassen sich die Schrofen unterhalb des Nordwandsattels gewinnen.) Nun auf ein 15m höher gelegenes Schuttband entweder gerade hinauf. über eine äußerst schwierige Wand oder bedeutend leichter durch eine große Schleife rechts, indem man erst 8 m absteigt. Schräg rechts (brüchig) ansteigend über eine schwierige Wandstelle in einen Kamin, den man knapp oberhalb seines ungangbaren Abbruches erreicht (2650 m). Im Kamin, der von der Hütte als feiner Stich sichtbar ist, über mehrere Überhänge aufwärts; nach 25 m exponierter und schwieriger Quergang etwa 10 m nach links, dann gerade hinauf zu einem kleinen Geröllfleck unter einem nach rechts ziehenden Spalt. Durch ihn auf ein kurzes Band (Steinmann) und noch 10 m schräg rechts aufwärts. Ein paar Meter unter einem auffallenden, aus einigen Blöcken gebildeten Bogen nach links zu einem Kamin, der auf leichteres Terrain leitet. Beliebig links zum Gipfel der Punta di Frida. Normale Dauer der Kletterei von der Scharte his zum Gipfel etwa 1 1/2 Stunden.

Die Route ermöglicht eine vollständige Überschreitung des Massivs der Kleinen Zinne von Nordosten nach Südwesten: Kleinste Zinne (Nordostwand, Abstieg nach Südwesten zur Scharte) - Punta di Frida (Nordwand, Abstieg zum Nordwandsattel) - Kleine Zinne (Nordwand, Abstieg auf dem gewöhnlichen Wege).

(Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1912 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland)

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/alvera-monte-averau/

https://verticalage.blogspot.com/2015/12/nuova-via-nel-versante-nord-del-cornetto.html

Corner in the left part of the wall. To the left of Compay Segundo route. Old slings. http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html

A very repeated classic route at Rocca pendice, fully bolted, follows a logical line of dihedrals and cracks in the southern corner of Rocca. The starting pillar on L4 is beautiful, above the difficulties of the route. 5 total pitches. From 'attacchi' sector, east wall, continue to the left. Immediately after the start of 'via Carugati', take the obvious and steep canal, go up it a few meters, cross it with a step of III and you reach the terrace where the route starts.

https://www.falesia.it/multipitchroute/45/spigolo-barbiero.html