Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
{UIAA} 5 | ★★★ Myriam
1
5
30m
2
4+
22m
3
3
28m
4
4+
10m
5
4
12m
6
5
30m
7
5
30m
8
3+
25m
FA: A. Dimai, G. Dimai, A. Gaspari & Miriam E. O'Brien, 1927 | 190m, 8 | Cinque Torri | ||
{UIAA} 3 | ★★★ Normal
im rechten Teil der Südseite Rinnen und Kamine, ab Ringband weiter links zum Gipfel FA: Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler & Peter Salcher, 1869 | 450m | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
{UIAA} 4- | ★★ Normal
1
4-
28m
2
4-
25m
Classic route often climbed by beginners as an introduction to multipitch climbing. It can be climbed in three pitches for practice purposes, but typically gets done in two. The route is well protected nowadays and doesn't require placing additional gear. Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/torre-inglese-ostwand/ | 53m, 2, 5 | Cinque Torri | ||
4 | ★★ Via Delle Guide
1
3+
25m
2
4
15m
3
3
25m
4
3
25m
5
3
25m
The first route you encounter if you follow the obvious path | 120m | Cinque Torri | ||
4c | ★★ Negus | 27m | Marciaga | ||
{UIAA} 7 | ★★★ Comici-Dimai
1
3
80m
2
4
30m
3
7
25m
4
6+
28m
5
7-
30m
6
6
22m
7
7-
20m
8
7-
22m
9
7
25m
10
4+
40m
11
4
35m
12
4+
40m
13
5-
30m
14
4+
25m
15
5
30m
16
4
20m
17
4
40m
Cima Grande. Comici is popular doing the August holidays and can get crowded. September and October are also a good time to climb but it will be colder; the advantage is that you are likely to have the route to yourself - less risk of rock fall or being stuck behind a slow party. 8-12 hours ascent 2-3 hours descent Recommended gear: rack of nuts (1-10), a few small to medium cams, 16 draws, head torch, plenty of water and food, belay jackets. Start early - many people climb the first two pitches in the dark, arriving at the first crux pitch as it gets light. Helpful if you stay on route. Afternoon thunderstorms are dangerous. It is possible to retreat via abseiling during the first eight pitches, but after that, escape is much more difficult. FA: Giuseppe Dimai, Emilio Comici † & Angelo Dimai, 1933 | 540m, 17 | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
{UIAA} 6+ | ★★★ Spigolo Giallo
1
5+
30m
2
6-
27m
3
4+
35m
4
3+
27m
5
5-
30m
6
4
30m
7
4
15m
8
5+
23m
9
6+
27m
10
5+
24m
11
5
30m
12
5+
30m
13
5
30m
Pitch 10: You can climb straight up the corner, but don't make an anchor on the bad pitons at the end of the corner, traverse left and make the anchor on the ledge (pedestal). This variant is about 6+. FA: Renato Zanutti, Mary Varale & Emilio Comici †, 1933 | 360m, 13 | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★★ Spigolo Dibona
1
3
30m
2
4
20m
3
4
24m
4
4+
30m
5
4
30m
6
3+
40m
7
4
20m
8
4+
50m
9
4-
25m
10
4-
50m
11
3+
50m
12
4
45m
13
4
50m
14
3
40m
15
4-
40m
16
4-
35m
17
3
45m
18
4-
20m
Spectacular climb at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo along the route to the Cima Grande di Lavaredo opened by the legendary Angelo Dibona. The itinerary of this great classic route climbs mostly along the northeast spur, overlooking at times in some sections the impressive north face of the Cima Grande. The route features a nice and well-paced climb up to the top of the tower at 2999 meters. FA: Rudl Eller, 1908 | 640m | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
5b | ★★ Soraparona
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5b | ★★ Ghiro Ghiro Tondo
| 20m | Rocca Pendice | ||
4 | ★★ Via Lusy Pompanin
1
3+
32m
2
3
18m
3
3
20m
4
4
25m
5
3
20m
6
2
10m
FA: Z. Pompanin & M. Lusy, 1913 | 130m, 6 | Cinque Torri | ||
5c | ★ Alex L'africano | 14m | Lumignano | ||
5a | ★★ Victoria | 17m | Lumignano | ||
6a | ★★ Muro Del Pianto
| 20m | Rocca Pendice | ||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★★ Via Cassin
1
5-
25m
2
5-
30m
3
6
25m
4
7-
25m
5
7-
28m
6
6-
30m
7
5+
15m
8
5+
25m
9
5+
30m
10
3
30m
11
4
50m
12
4+
30m
FA: Cassin, Vitali & Pozzi, 1934 | 340m, 12 | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
{UIAA} 4- | ★ Via Normale
1
3+
15m
2
3-
30m
3
4-
30m
4
3+
20m
| 95m, 4 | Cinque Torri | ||
6a | ★★ Il Gatto Tardo | 20m | Lumignano | ||
4c | ★★ Graspia | 24m | Marciaga | ||
6a+ | ★★ Banana
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5c | ★ Videomare
Attenzione alla lama instabile | 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5c | ★ Fessure Di Stefy
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★ Scoiattolo Volante | 25m | New Gaium | ||
5c | ★★ Gaby | 35m, 13 | Valle Santa Felicita | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Via Ignazio Dibona
1
4
2
4
3
3+
4
3+
North face to holes, slightly right, later left left. From final band below summit keep right to exit. Occasional pitons. | 110m, 4 | Cinque Torri | ||
4a | ★★ Camino
| 30m | Rocca Pendice | ||
{UIAA} 3+ | ★★ Normalweg (Southeastface)
http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/TORRE%20QUARTA%20BASSA_normale.htm FA: Dibona & Girardi, 1911 | 70m, 3 | Cinque Torri | ||
5c | So Mato Pa Ea Mona | 23m | Lumignano | ||
4c | ★★ Niet Pezolsky | 27m | Marciaga | ||
5c | ★★ Krapfen Al Caffè | 35m | Lumignano | ||
5a IV | ★★ BELLA GIOIA
1
5a
30m
2
IV
20m
3
5a
30m
4
5a
35m
5
5a
30m
| 150m, 5 | Parete Rigata | ||
5b | ★★ Mr. Verde | 27m | Marciaga | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Cappuccio del Fungo
1
4-
30m
2
3-
30m
3
2
30m
4
4
30m
5
4
40m
Set: Eugenio Cipriani & Francesca De Renzo, 1982 | 160m, 5 | Trapezio | ||
5c | ★★ Fessure di Stefy 2
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5a | ★★ Spigolo Del Nasetto
| 15m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Onorevole Cicciolina
1
6a
25m
2
6a
8m
3
6b+
30m
| 63m, 3 | Cinque Torri | ||
4b | ★★ Lucia
Blue hangers. Nice undercling in the hollow. | 23m | Valle Santa Felicita | ||
{US} A | ★★★ Ferrata Innerkofler-De Luca | 200m | Monte Paterno | ||
6a | ★★★ Tirami Su
| 20m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★ Pal
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5b | ★★ Linda | 17m | Lumignano | ||
5b | ★★ Apocalypse Cow | 20m | Lumignano | ||
5a | ★★ Full Metal Cian | 17m | Lumignano | ||
5c | ★ Di Diedro È Bello | 15m | Lumignano | ||
4b | ★★ Ciao Efrem sanguinetto | 24m | Marciaga | ||
6b | ★★ Yu
Avoids roof by going right. Though some topos show it sharing the ancor with SC on the left. | 21m | Cinque Torri | ||
4a | ★★ Maruska
1
4a
20m
2
4a
25m
| 45m, 2 | Lumignano | ||
5c | ★ Benzodiazepine | 14m | Lumignano | ||
5b | ★★ Maruskao
1
5b
25m
2
5a
20m
| 45m, 2 | Lumignano | ||
6b | ★★ Brasilera Rumba Jai-Jai
| Rocca Pendice | |||
5c | ★★ Sinistra Del Nasetto
| 22m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5b | ★★ A Pier | 20m | Lumignano | ||
5c | ★★ Spigolo
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5c | ★ Bocca Insaziabile | 23m | Lumignano | ||
4a | ★★ senza nome 4 (n.26 in guida)
| 23m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★ Baby Doc
| 25m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★ Ape Maia
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5c | ★★★ Sikh
| 20m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6b | ★★ Tetto Marcello | 12m | Cinque Torri | ||
6a | ★★★ Fra Fra
First route on the right of VDG. The first few moves are very polished. | 18m | Cinque Torri | ||
5a | ★ Fun Tomas | 25m | Crepe De Oucera Bassi | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★★ Normal Route
1
3
30m
2
3-
30m
3
3-
20m
4
2
50m
5
1
25m
6
3
25m
7
4-
40m
8
3
42m
9
3
27m
10
3+
30m
11
4-
35m
12
3
20m
13
4
43m
From the gorge between Cima Grande and Cima Piccola follow the obvious polished line to the shoulder and then climb the chimney (crux IV) to the top. Start of the first pitch is marked with a small white arrow and "Normal". Descent route by abseiling directly to the gorge (bolts) FA: Witzemnann & Michel und Hans Innerkofler, 1881 | 420m, 13 | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
6a | ★ Rigoberta Menchu | 14m | Lumignano | ||
6a+ | ★★★ Chiaro di Luna | 26m | Cinque Torri | ||
4b | ★★ Senza nome 7 (n.23 in guida)
| 22m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5c | ★★ Edo Bacco
| 25m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★★ Anal Dream | 25m | Lumignano | ||
6b | ★ Il Vomere | 14m | Lumignano | ||
5a | ★★ De Bello Fallico | 20m | Lumignano | ||
4a | senza nome 6 (n.24 in guida)
| 23m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a+ | ★★ Direct Dimai
1
5
35m
2
4c
20m
3
4a
15m
4
6a+
25m
5
4b
20m
6
5b
30m
7
6a
20m
8
3
45m
FA: C. Degasper, G. Ghedina, Giuseppe Dimai & A. Verzi, 1933 | 210m | Cinque Torri | ||
6a+ | ★★ Pol Pot
| 18m | Rocca Pendice | ||
{UIAA} 3 | ★ Via Normale
Scramble up the east face of Torre Latina. Easy route used as introduction to alpine climbing. Second pitch doesn't have any fixed gear. Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/torre-latina-normalweg-nordostwand/ | 70m, 2, 4 | Cinque Torri | ||
6a | ★★ Femmine In Calore | 30m | Lumignano | ||
6a/a+ | ★★ Non Ho Più Braccia | Campolongo Sul Brenta | |||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★★★ Via Constantini-Apollonio
1
5
40m
2
5
25m
3
6-
35m
4
5+
25m
5
4+
30m
6
6-
40m
7
4+
40m
8
5+
20m
9
7+
12m
10
6+
35m
11
7+
17m
12
7
45m
13
4
25m
14
5+
35m
15
5+
30m
16
4+
25m
17
4+
40m
18
3+
45m
19
3
35m
20
4
45m
21
4
50m
5+ A2 or 6+ A1 obligatory. The most famous and popular route on this wall. FA: Ettore Costantini & Renato Apollonio, 1944 | 690m, 21 | Gruppo Tofane | ||
6b | ★★ Finlandia
1
4
12m
2
6a
30m
3
6b
20m
4
6b
25m
5
6a
30m
FA: M. Jokinen & W. Gstrein, 1959 | 120m, 5 | Cinque Torri | ||
6a+ | ★ Lelo's
shares ancor with SC, takes the rooflet to the right | 25m | Cinque Torri | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★★ Dülfer Dihedral
1
3
80m
2
5+
35m
3
5+
25m
4
5
40m
5
5+
20m
6
4+
35m
7
4
35m
8
2
40m
splendid crack line with crux at the top, just before reaching the SW-edge Tourbeschreibung von der Erstbegehung: Große Zinne 3003m Erste Aufstieg über die Westwand: Walter F. b. Bernuth und Hans Dülfer am 18. August 1913. Die westlichen Begrenzungskanten der Nord und Südwand flankieren eine verhältnismäßig schmale, von mächtigen überhängen durchzogene, senkrechte Wandflucht. Den Durchstieg durch diesen, über 200 Meter hohen, gelben Abbruch vermittelt eine etwa 150 Meter lange, rißdurchzogene Verschneidung, welche die Wand in ihrem südlichen Drittel bilden. - Von der westlichen Zinnenscharte nach links aufwärts und schließlich zu dem kleinen Schuttfeld unmittelbar unter dem senkrechten Wandabbruch der Verschneidung. Hier links zwischen einem Zacken und der Wand 5 Meter aufwärts; dann rechts steil 5 Meter hinan, bis man auf schmaler Leiste 4 Meter nach links querrend den Beginn eines gelben feinen Risses erreicht. Durch ihn senkrecht ungefähr 6 Meter hinauf zu einem Absatz. Rechts um eine abgesprengte Platte herum und über eine Rampe schräg rechts aufwärts zu einem kurzen Band. Oberhalb eines am Boden befindlichen Sicherungshakens äußerst schwierig über die 8 Meter hohe gelbe und senkrechte Wandstelle zu einem zweiten Band, das sich unmittelbar under dem Beginn der erwähnten Verschneidung befindet. In ihr mit Benutzung des Risses ungewöhnlich schwierig 12 Meter aufwärts unter einen kleinen Überhang der rechten Seitenwand. Über ihn hinweg und in der überhängenden Verschneidung weitere 12 Meter ungewöhnlich schwierig hinan unter einen Überhang der linken Seitenwand, der durch einen mächtigen, anscheinend losen Block gebildet wird. Noch 12 Meter äußerst schwierig aufwärts zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken) oberhalb eines Klemmblockes. Höhe der in einem Stück zu durchkletternden, größtenteils überhängenden Stelle vom „zweiten Bande“ etwa 40 Meter. Nun etwas leichter 5 Meter aufwärts unter einem großen Überhang, äußerst schwierig über ihn hinweg und nach 6 Meter zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken etwas höher). Ein ungefähr 10 Meter hoher Kamin leitet unter einen großen, schon von unten gut sichtbaren eingeklemmten Block. Durch ein enges Loch hinter ihm zu einem Geröllfeld unter der sich nun bedeutend erweiternden Fortsetzung des Kamins. In ihm an eingeklemmten Blöcken vorbei etwa 25 Meter spreizend aufwärts zu einem Absatz. In einem brüchigen Einriß links noch 6 Meter hinan zu einem Band. Etwas nach rechts und durch einen 15 Meter hohen Riß auf das nächsthöhere Band. Nun über einen Überhang hinauf und rechts durch eine Geröllrinne auf den Westgrad, über den man öfters rechts ausweichend den Gipfel erreicht. - Der lange Riß dürfte fast immer naß sein. Normale Zeit etwa 5 Stunden. Eine der schwersten uns bekannten Dolomittouren. (Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1913 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland) FA: von Bernuth & Hans Dülfer †, 1913 | 310m, 8 | Tre Cime di Lavaredo | ||
5c+ | Do You Remember My Member? | 20m | Lumignano | ||
6a | ★ Qualcosa Mi Sfugge | 12m | Lumignano | ||
6a | ★★ Indios
face climb to the left of the big crack | 21m | Cinque Torri | ||
6b | ★★ stormbringer | 20m | Praderadego | ||
5+ | ★★ Rosamunda | 20m | Cinque Torri | ||
5c | ★★ Sukia | 18m | Lumignano | ||
5b | ★ Ciano Guru | 25m | Valle Santa Felicita | ||
4b | ★★ Lo Spacco | 20m | Lumignano | ||
5b | ★ Un due tre stella | 15m | New Gaium | ||
5c | ★ Pat Pong | 22m | Lumignano | ||
5a | ★★ Bepilove | 17m | Lumignano | ||
6a+ | ★★ Batman
| 22m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a | ★★ Via Dei Dementi | 12m | Lumignano | ||
4a+ | ★★ Diedrino alto
1
3c
16m
2
4a+
13m
| 29m, 2 | Stallavena | ||
5a | ★ Mistral | 24m, 10 | Stallavena | ||
6b | ★ Cirrosi Empatica
Placca a tacche con un movimento breve ma duro nella parte alta. | 20m | Praderadego | ||
6a+ | ★★ Fulmini e Saette | 25m | Cinque Torri | ||
6a+ | ★★ Zebra Zebra
2 meters right of Fra Fra. | 20m | Cinque Torri | ||
6a | ★ SN59 | 20m | Cinque Torri | ||
5b | ★ Zanzara A Zonzo | 25m | Crepe De Oucera Bassi | ||
4a | ★★ Senza nome 5 (n.25 in guida)
| 23m | Rocca Pendice | ||
6a - b+ | ★★ Belli Si Pompieri No
| 30m | Rocca Pendice |