Ascents in Italy by Christoph Rauch having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Endurance beast, mostly on crimps and sidepulls with a nice rooflet start (kneebar to clip the first bolt :-D). Already a good deal of polish, but still manageable, with a few committing moves. Struggled a bit seeing what was ahead of me because the sun already came around …

Might have been bolted just because the lines to the left and right were already polished, since it uses a lot of holds from both. The dihedral at the start is independent and quite challenging, reminded me to stretch more … Afterwards it's lots of crimps, sidepulls, and a crux on some water drop dimples or whatever you might call them, which I solved with a high heel hook on the left and a delicate mantel using the thumb on the dimples. More crimps and a few slits towards the end.

I was quite nervous giving it a go without a warmup, but fortunately the first half is quite easy. Didn't make a single mistake and had plenty of time hanging the draws. Even realized there was a different solution for the top section (quite reachy but involving one or two moves less). Happy to have sent this on the last day.

Quite steep on pockets and tufas. Great moves all over, crux at the very end, hard to read and pumpy.

Cool crimper flake section through the overhang, then a long move on a wet pocket to relative safety. The upper section is again technical wall climbing on sharp holds, with lots of crimpers and some rough slopers.

Beautiful wall climbing, technical on small holds, following a thin white stripe. Two hard sections, quite sustained throughout.

Overhanging tufa line, hard until the middle. Good rest on a mini ledge, then interesting wall climbing up top. Went to the right before the end but it’s more interesting to go left.

Interesting steep slab with lots of underclings (hence the name). The massive hollow flake in the middle is a bit dubious, though. Good moves.

Excellent wall climbing with a bouldery start on big holds. Up the crack, avoiding a section of blank wall, traversing left to the other crack right where it ends. A few more technical and pumpy moves lead into the delightful upper slab with sharp jugs.

Homogenous overhang with jugs, crimpers and some tufas. Nice #lastrouteoftheday

Great wall climbing with distinct crux in the middle: first a hard and reachy move to a jug with barely any holds, then find a way to stand up on that jug, again with barely any holds. The finish is easier but technical and still sustained.

Fantastic climbing throughout. Powerful overhang with good pockets and tufas in the beginning up to the roof of the cave, where you twist and turn yourself out into the vertical wall. I thought it's more or less over, but far from it! Technical face climbing that doesn't seem to end, up to a good rest position just before the anchor, where a final crux over a bulge awaits. Marvellous (though maybe soft for 7b, it's 7a+ in my guide book)!

Not as completely wasted as some other routes here. Still a little greasy, but the ridiculous jugs in the steep part still have enough friction to make it a lot of fun. Almost lost my way after the overhang and had to back up a bit to find the line, which made the easier slab part above still quite challenging.

Strenuous fist crack with some tricky sections. Much longer and steeper than it looks, demanding and fun!

Nice climbing along big features in the lower part. Short difficult passage at the end, just before the first chain, then suddenly super hard boulder crux on small holds to an easier finish.

Might have been a classic once, but then it got polished to oblivion; in addition, the locals tried to fix it by sprinkling concrete on some footholds. In the original state it might have been a (hard) 6b+, but now it seemed more like a solid 7a. Nice moves on tufas at the start (the only ones at the whole crag), then a devious little section out of the tiny cave, followed by crimps, pockets, sidepulls and finally lots of baked-on concretions. Hard until the very last move. Worthwhile despite the polish, might still be one of the best lines at the crag.

Great tufa climbing, but at least one bolt is missing. I threaded a massive rock tunnel and took a detour to the left to a bolt of "Thai Dream". Pumpy overhang where the bolts reappear. Shabby belay with lots of rusty gear …

Pumpy overhang endurance. Felt soft for 7a, but good climbing. Relatively close to "Panettone di guano".

Really good route through this marble-like blank wall, with tricky moves, but overall requires endurance. A must!

Sensational route: relatively easy at the beginning, then a very interesting, slightly overhanging dihedral with beautiful moves into mega jug flakes and a brilliant chickenhead clipping jug. From there it’s 15 more meters of easy slab on incredible chickenheads that grow out of the rock like mushrooms.

Funky jug flake at the start (sounds hollow and it’s quite big, so pull carefully) to a crux section on small holds in slightly crumbly rock. The upper part is beautiful technical wall climbing with lots of different hold shapes and moves.

Nasty start with interesting hold structures, then a vertical part similar to “Pizzicotto”, but a tad easier, and as a bonus 10 meters of awesome chickenhead slab climbing at the top.

Funny route with a balancy/reachy move to a jug (while standing on a polished tufa), and a move on a deep mono pocket high up.

Great wall climbing, mostly on crimpers and with some tufas. Almost blew it before the top.

Good technical climbing, but the line is a bit forced and uses holds from the 6b+ on the right. Hard if you stick to the bolts more closely.

Enjoyable friction slab in the lower part, greasy crimps towards the end in a short vertical section. Felt brutally hard at 30 degrees in the sun.

Boulder problem at the second bolt, which you can pre-clip from the ground already. Painful sidepull to get over the bulge. Solved it with a very high foot on the left. The rest is relatively easy, but nice.

Elegant and long slab. My feet already hurt quite a bit, which didn't make it easier. Relatively homogeneous, great easy finish on horizontal pinches.

Slightly more compressed, cruxy section in the upper half, the rest is easier. Took me a while to find a solution and commit to it, the holds are relatively thin and the passage is near vertical. Tough bolting for small people, I guess.

The guidebook got it wrong, saying that the start is 6b and the short pitch after the first chain is 4a or so, while it's the other way round. Delicate friction moves towards the end, all in all quite enjoyable.

Unfortunately, the route stops right in the middle of the brilliant, rough crack, with at least 5 meters of perfect, natural rock above. Such a waste.

Hard move to reach the roof. After that, I don't think you can get it for 6c+ if you don't use at least a few of the holds from the route to the right (the routes are generally quite packed here).

Long and enjoyable journey up a faint pillar. No polish at all. Great technical middle section with a funky sequence involving a deep mono.

Nice juggy start to a big rock tunnel, then a few hard moves (probably even 6c) and nice slabby finish.

Varied climb with two hard sections and cool moves.

Looks harder than it is, crux is quite low down in the little overang on good crimps.

Looks hard, and turns out it is. Maybe it's the grease, but it could just as well be the awkward movements in the overhanging dihedral in the middle. Must have been exceptional in a less polished state.

Another shower came down unexpectedly, so I rushed in and didn't fully rest. Just barely stuck the crux dyno, rested for a few seconds, then continued with the strenuous moves to the last rest. The juice didn't suffice, though, slipped off and took a good whipper. Wouldn't have had it in me to finish it, anyway, the top section is still hard.

Great route with two cruxes. Got through the lower one, then it started raining, so the temperature was actually great, but I didn't have a clue how to solve the second crux. Figured out a way and when I arrived at the anchor, the rain had stopped, so I decided to give it another go before the thunderstorms would come.

Brilliant, varied climbing. The first part is on tufas and crimps leads up to a crux on slopery holds, where good footwork is helpful, with a good rest afterwards. Immediately after, you traverse under a roof into the second crux, with a nifty overhead cross into a good sidepull. You can still fall one move before the anchor. Nice!

While there is a crack in the end, it's still basically a slab. The crack just makes the final section super easy, there's just one move at the beginning which uses the crack to get over a tricky passage. Nice and long.

Tricky slab with a difficult section at the overlap in the upper part.

Just tried this because I failed here years ago, and now I know why. The route in itself is beautiful, but even for 6b, it's terribly hard. The crux section, quite high up, is a tough, almost bouldery wall climbing problem which also relies a bit on friction -- on totally greased up holds. Luckily, the sun was already setting and I got through the lower part without sweating a lot, so I could quickly breeze through that part. Didn't lose my cool when I suddenly stood there in the slab, not having anything sensible to hold on to, either, so I could ignore the urge to clip the bolt in front of my eyes and instead climb on for another two moves to the safety of a jug. Hard!

Long #warmup with two hard moves at the beginning. Left out some bolts in the slab, almost felt a little like Elbe sandstones. ;-)

No tufas on this one, but a very nice, long route with a crimpy crux to the ledge in the middle. Beautiful wall climbing to the top.

Brilliant layback finger crack at the top. The start is on edges and crimps typical for the crag.

One of the best lines here. Easy climbing to the ledge, then tricky up the tufas and athletic over the bulge.