Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 10th May 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Tre Frati | |||||||
6c | ★ Starlight | 15m | Average | ||||
Dubious equipment: a loose bolt, rusty maillon, …
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Superpanza | |||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Vuoto a perdere
1
6c+
35
nicht versucht
2
6c
20
nicht versucht
3
6b
20
nicht versucht | 75m | |||||
the guide book says it is 5c, which I cannot agree with. I doubt that it is 6c+ though.
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Attico | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Attrazione fatale - with Marit Nava | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Balance your way up and stay close to the wall. Very good climb
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a | ★★ Velociraptor | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice route
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Pianerella Settore paretone | |||||||
6a | ★★ Via lunga - with Catharina Ziska, Hendrik Gro | 270m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Honestly no idea what we climbed towards the end, certainly not the last two pitches from the guidebook. Very enjoyable but hard to find the right way at times.
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Galactica — 2 attempts | 17m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard Start
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Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia della coccinella | |||||||
5c | ★★ Figoviz — 2 attempts | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice Slab
|
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6a Hard | ★★ Equinoxe | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tolle Route mit Überhang, Riss und Platte!
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Galactica | 17m, 9 | |||||
Hard start
|
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6b | ★ Rune - with Caro, Hanna, Nora, Stephan | 14m, 8 | |||||
Foot slipped. Outch. Shoulder.
|
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Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia della coccinella | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Il pensatore — 2 attempts - with Hanna, Caro, Stephan | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Kneebar + chickenwing 😎
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Superpanza | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Raieu - with Andrea Graf | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Routenbeschrieb vom Guidebook hilft für ein „onsight“ extrem!
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Vuoto a perdere - with Andrea Graf | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Das (+) wan dann wirklich nur wegen dem Ausdauerfaktor
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Tue 28th Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with Dascha | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sehr abwechslungsreich, toller Fels! Überhang hat sich kräftesparend aufgelöst über rechts
|
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6b | ★★ Pippistrelli e salvaragni - with Dascha | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kontinuierliche Kletterei an schöner Lochwand nach interessantem Einstieg über einen Pfeiler.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del serpente | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Vyper - with Daniela | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del serpente | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lo scolaro - with Daniela | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★ Disneyland - with Daniela | 10m | |||||
Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Attico | |||||||
7a | ★★ Il respiro del tempo — 3 attempts - with emil | 10m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could do all the moves in isolation, with some links. Really fun route, huge holds but still soo hard!
|
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6a+ | ★★ C'hai 36 anni - with ronny | 17m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool crux(es). Trchnical, but a bit uneven.
|
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
5a | ★★ Prometeus | 15m, 8 | Average | ||||
Cleaning it.
|
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5c+ | ★ Maramao | 12m, 7 | Average | ||||
Fall training #1.
|
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6a | ★★ Gotham | 31m, 18 | ★ Good | ||||
Fall training #2, side falls.
|
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6a+ | ★ Galactica | 17m, 9 | |||||
Fall traing #3 dynamic falls.
|
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Tre Frati | |||||||
6b | ★★ Dito nel Sonno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feet slipped... After passed the most delicate move!
|
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Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Pianerella Settore paretone | |||||||
6a |
★★ Via lunga
- with
Karlheinz Schwegler-Erb
5
4c
25m
6
4c
25m
9
4b
20m
10
4c
20m
| 270m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of my best ways I ever made.
|
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Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Tre Frati | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Dito nel Sonno | 15m | |||||
unbedingt die ersten beiden Haken der rechten Route mitbenutzen, sonst klettert man 8 Meter ungesichert.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric del Frate Parete dell'Aquila | |||||||
6b ~7a | ★★★ Sometimes knocks - with Rosie Cinnamon | 20m | |||||
Sharp finger locking up the diagonal crack supplemented with small pockets. Sandbagged.
|
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Pianerella Settore paretone | |||||||
6a | ★★ Via lunga | 270m | |||||
I somehow got confused with the descriptions of the pitches and accidentally did a harder exit on some rusty old pitons. Eventually even the pitons ran out at an old anchor that looked like an exhibit from a museum and then I free soloed half a pitch to the top. Anyway the climb was enjoyable, just don't go up too early after the traverse!
|
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Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Grigio Il Grottino | |||||||
8b | ★★ Belgarath | ||||||
8b/+
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Deciso e preciso — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
Leider hat die Zeit für nen Durchstieg nicht gereicht
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Pianerella Settore paretone | |||||||
6c |
★★ Menti perdute
1
5b
45
2
6b+
20
3
6a+
30
4
5a
30
5
6a+
25
6
6c
20
| 170m | |||||
Mussten leider nach der 6. Länge abseilwn, weil es dann unerwartet angefangen hat sehr lange zu regnen 😅
|
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Pianerella Settore paretone | |||||||
6a | ★★ Via lunga - with Peter | 270m | ★ Good | ||||
Sehr, sehr "botanisch"
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric del Frate Settore centrale | |||||||
7a | ★★ Luce di venere | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Non duro
|
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del Kaimano | |||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★★ Demoni | 18m | |||||
Boulder am einstieg. Danach leichter
|
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6a | ★★ Polverom | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Leicht
|
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6c | ★★ Spigolo Bianco | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super schöne tour hoch an Pfeiler
|
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Kattedrale | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Fragile - with Helge | 25m | |||||
Ganz schön streng
|
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Attico | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Doing — 4 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard boulder over the fourth clip, bad one finger pocket
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Grigio Bric Grigio Settore Sinistro | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Via Cinque | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice crack where you can layback all the way through. Rather hard boulder problem at the end, especially for smaller people. Recommended!
|
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6b | ★★ Sotto Sorzo | 20m | |||||
Tiny, pretty crux. Nice classic.
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Sakrestia | |||||||
6a ~6b+ | ★ Chi non muore si rivede | Average | |||||
Very hard and awkward start with strenuous clippings. Not 6a for sure.
|
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Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Superpanza | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Baobab pret a Porter — 2 attempts - with Catalina Torres | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ground up
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Oggi spingo - with Catalina Torres | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ground up
|
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Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia della coccinella | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Phantom | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Zuerst kräftiger Überhang an Henkeln und dann sehr technische Plattenstelle (Crux). Sehr cool!
|
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5c | ★★ Vogue | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Löcher, Löcher und noch mehr coole Löcher .
|
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6a | ★★ Albatros | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Oben coole athletische Moves.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Cannabis | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Habe ich mich nicht getraut: Sehr heikles Klippen an Fingerlöchern mit potenziellem Sturz auf ein Felsband.
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Max — 2 attempts - with pholz, Markus | 35m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
some unpleasant holds and a cruxy sequence low down that requires some ability - after that 20 meters of slightly-too-easy climbing
|
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6b Hard | ★★ Maga magù — 2 attempts - with pholz, Markus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
requires some ability on this sharp, mini-featured vertical and rain-slab limestone - good training?
|
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6a Easy | ★★ Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche - with pholz, Markus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
repeat
|
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6a Hard | Grazie lo stesso - with pholz, Markus | 20m | Average | ||||
nasty as warmup: pumpy overhang on non-obvious judgs with no-fall bolt spacing.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Max — 3 attempts - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Unintuitive slab crux sequence and afterwards, like Alice to the right, a flowy second half
|
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6a ~6a+ | Grazie lo stesso - with Chris Stephens, Markus | 20m | Average | ||||
Meant for this to be a warmup but felt really run out and rather hard
|
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6b | ★★★ Les Couleurs d’un Autre Monde - with Maya Damron | 28m | |||||
Wonderful juggy and steep climbing. Followed a trail of blood though, so maybe only a flash? Not sure...
|
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6b+ | ★★ K-Pax | 22m | |||||
Tough to onsight, hidden pockets in the overhang
|
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a | ★★ Gotham | 31m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Von unten bis oben coole Henkel.
|
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Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Android | 34m, 18 | |||||
Sehr schöne Route
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Velociraptor | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Boulderstelle Bauch, über Bolts 6a+
|
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Tre Frati | |||||||
6a | ★★ Mittelnaht | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Long distance between the bolts
|
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Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del Kaimano | |||||||
7a+ | Il Vigile | 15m | |||||
Weird climb, very hard to onsight. Much easier when you know the sequence
|
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Superpanza | |||||||
6b | ★★ Scolorate | 45m | |||||
First Pitch.
|
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6a 6c+ | ★★ Popolo Migratore | 70m | |||||
First Pitch.
|
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Superpanza | |||||||
6a 6b+ | ★★ Pangea - with Denis Blum, Niklas | 38m | |||||
Only first pitch.
|
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6a 6c+ | ★★ Popolo Migratore - with Denis Blum, Niklas | 70m | |||||
Only first pitch.
|
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Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6a | ★★ Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
soft
|
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6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with pholz | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
mega-line, all sections very interesting and challenging.
rests to keep heart-rate down whilst slightly ill.
|
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6a | ★★ Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche - with Chris Stephens | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic route that is fair for the grade compared to e.g. the nearby Fuga. Recommended warmup in this crag!
|
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6a+ | ★★ Materia grigia - with Chris Stephens | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Exit is hard to onsight for the grade! Took too long at non obvious move at end. When I found it, the move was easy so I didn't bother going for the rp...
|
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6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with Chris Stephens | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Overhang confusion
|
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6c | ★★★ A cà de Alice - with Chris Stephens | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Strenuous, long and very interesting. RP crux at the overhang, then endurance and focus along the upper wall. Maybe my favourite route in the finale area.
|
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Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia della coccinella | |||||||
6b | ★ Marco - with pholz | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
hard, powerful sequence ending in very hard move
|
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6a+ | ★ Il pensatore - with pholz | 10m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pumpy if one doesn't stop to think
|
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7a 7a+ | ★★ Fluido rosa - with pholz | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd go, feels like only 7a in Finale. nice little sustained and technical overhang.
|
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6b | ★ Marco - with Chris Stephens | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldery. Hard grade, even for finale. At least 6b+ I think.
|
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Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6a | ★★ Fuga di mezzogiorno - with pholz | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
super-hard, fingery & technical
|
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6b | Dimensione panza - with pholz | 18m | |||||
funky line - difficulty ranging from soft 6b to around 7a depending on how directly one stays in the line...
|
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6b | Dimensione panza - with Chris Stephens | 18m | |||||
Technically an onsight but went so far to the left that it made the crux a lot easier. Beautiful route until the crux.
|
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Tasmania - with pholz | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
first 2 moves crux
|
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5c 5c+ | ★★ A ca'di Alice - with pholz | 23m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
added sit start from the right - 3-4 powerful overhang moves : ~6b
|
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5c | Genesi | 12m, 7 | Average | ||||
Hard for an easy warmup
|
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6a+ | ★★ Tasmania - with Chris Stephens | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could be the most interesting route in the crag
|
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6a+ | ★★ Cyclops - with Chris Stephens | 22m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
I checked 3 topos that list this as 6a+ or 6b, the sketches all match, but it feels like a 5b. Probably the softest grade I've ever experienced.
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Grigio Bric Grigio Settore Sinistro | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ La Svolta - with Sasho | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Amazing the first 12 meters
|
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5c 5c+ | ★ Va i Va La - with Sasho | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Not really advisable for beginners
|
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6a | ★★ Sottovento - with Sasho | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Watch out, bolts sometimes a bit far
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Booki - with Sasho | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice vertical wall followed by fun ceiling move, soft for the grade
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6a | Grazie lo stesso - with Arginator | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
one glassy jug
|
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Attico | |||||||
6b | Pappappero | 16m | |||||
Special, but super route.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Xamamina | 10m | |||||
Completely messed. Sun came in and tired...
|
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6c | ★★★ Sveltina | 20m, 10 | |||||
Not that easy, but super cool route. Slaby 1st half on white, super slightly overhanging second part on yellow limestoneholes.
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric Grigio Bric Grigio Settore Sinistro | |||||||
5c | ★ Buon Anno | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
High first bolt
|
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Wed 28th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del serpente | |||||||
6b | ★★ Daphne - with Klára Schmidtová | 19m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
angry mouse in the pocket
|
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Tue 27th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia del Condor | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Pippero | 21m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
nice one!
|
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila La mansarda | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Scuola di pulizia - with Klára Schmidtová | ★ Good | |||||
too hard (for me) to start in Finale...
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Placca dei Maleducati | |||||||
6b | ★★ Pippistrelli e salvaragni - with Sasho | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful vertical wall; failed on the os attempt
|
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Mon 19th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Falesia Gorilla | |||||||
6a |
★★ I Gatti
- with
Daniel Soh
1
5c
2
6a
| 40m, 23 | |||||
Second pitch required high feet/heel on the roof to rock over on a crimp
|
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Bric del Frate Caffettiera | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Human - with Sasho | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flashed top rope and sent on the next day on the first go of the day. Very soft, no more than 6a+ but very nice and fun
|
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Finale Ligure | |||||||
Valle Aquila Il Castello | |||||||
7a | Capodanno | 22m | |||||
Cool route with mostly small crimps. Did all the moves, but far away from redpointt.. Not easy
|
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6c | Queen Ivana | 20m | |||||
Couldn't do the move from the belly to the ledge. Hard.
|