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Routes in Parete di San Paolo

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 154 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
6b Il brigante Goria
Sport Valle del Sarca
6a Tenax
Sport 15m Valle del Sarca
7c Balle Bollenti
Sport Valle del Sarca
4c Bella Marisa

Short warm up in the shades.

Sport 10m Valle del Sarca
6c L'om sec...
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7a Not Only Apple

Same start as Parassiti d'Oltralpe but branches out left.

Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
6c Obelix
1 6b
2 6c
Sport 37m, 2 Valle del Sarca
6c Unnamed 1
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
7a+ Avatar
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 5+ Via Calliope
1 4 20m
2 5+ 40m
3 5+ 30m
4 4+ 30m
5 5+ 20m
6 4+ 50m

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

Sport 190m, 6 Valle del Sarca
6b La padelle
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
8a La Pista
Sport Valle del Sarca
6b Ossa
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
6c Parassiti d'Oltralpe
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
6c Break Dance
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 6+ Dirade
1 5
2 6+
3 4+
4 5+
5 5

Aufgrund der Kirche unterhalb der Route darf an Sonn- und Feiertagen nicht geklettert werden. No climbing allowed on Sundays and bank holidays due to the Mass held in the small church.

Trad 150m, 5 Valle del Sarca
6c Without name
Sport 15m Valle del Sarca
5c Con un Fischio
Sport 12m Valle del Sarca
7b La Gita
Sport Valle del Sarca
7a 9/7=7
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7b+ Copacabana
Sport 33m, 2 Valle del Sarca
8c+ Zauberfee

Set: Gerhard Hörhager

FFA: Christian Bindhammer, 2003

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
6c Calimba de Luna
Sport 38m Valle del Sarca
6a+ Cavoli tuoi

Crosses the route that starts on the right of it.

Sport 17m Valle del Sarca
7a Tenebre
Sport 38m Valle del Sarca
7c+ Porca Vacca
Sport Valle del Sarca
? Pedro
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
7a Dolce Marina
Sport 22m Valle del Sarca
5c Senza bom
Sport 17m Valle del Sarca
6c Bicipiti in Vacanza
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
7c+ Spigolo della Tibia Silenziosa

Extension of Tibia Silenziosa.

Sport 35m Valle del Sarca
6c+ Herpes

Moves left on top.

Sport 35m Valle del Sarca
7a Armando Diaz
Sport Valle del Sarca
8a+ L'etic Del Ba. Ro.
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
8c+/9a St. Anger

Set: Francois Legrand

FA: Andreas Bindhammer, 2008

Sport 24m Valle del Sarca
6b White Line
Sport 10m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7 A0 Via Ermete
1 6
2 7
3 7
4 7-
5 6+
6 7 A0
Trad 180m, 6 Valle del Sarca
6c+ La Rivincita dei Piedi
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
Unknown 1
Sport Valle del Sarca
7b Herpes tropicale

Direct variant of Herpes.

Sport 35m Valle del Sarca
6a Greppo Greppo
1 6a 20m
2 5c 20m
Sport 40m, 2 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 6- Via Sabina Direkt
1 3+
2 4
3 6-
4 4
5 4
6 5+

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

Trad 170m, 6 Valle del Sarca
7c Tibbia Silinziosa

Up to the first anchor.

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
8a Caty mini

Set: Francois Legrand

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
5c Senza Balle
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
7b+ Pipistrello

FA: Heinz Mariacher

Sport Valle del Sarca
7a La Principessa sul Pisello

Extension of Tin Tin.

Sport 40m Valle del Sarca
7a Monacù
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
6c+ Karl Dalle
1 6c+ 20m
2 6b 20m
Sport 40m, 2 Valle del Sarca
Via Lanterna
Sport Valle del Sarca
7c+ Dune
Sport 22m Valle del Sarca
7a Caduta Sassi
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7c Indiana Jones
Sport 2 Valle del Sarca
5b No Name

Water holes and friction. Old pegs (red).

Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7a Sultan of Swing
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
6c+ Bip bip
1 6c+ 30m
2 6a 20m
Sport 50m, 2 Valle del Sarca
6b+ Sirac En Rut

Same start as Unnamed 1 but connects right into Karl Knopf.

Sport 2 Valle del Sarca
8a Spirito Libero
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
6c Pioneer
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 5- Il sole che solleva Sport 140m, 6, 8 Valle del Sarca
5c Il Primo Specchio

New bolts, but with a long runout in the middle.

Sport 15m Valle del Sarca
6a+ La cengia rossa extension

Nice pitch starting on tufas to the right of the top of La Cengia Rossa.

Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7c+ Dracurella
1 7a 25m
2 7c+ 20m
Sport 45m, 2 Valle del Sarca
6b+ Topolino

Shares anchor with first pitch of Sirac en rut.

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
6c+ Super Tilt
Sport 30m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7- Via Katl
1 6- 25m
2 6 30m
3 6 30m
4 gehen 10m
5 5 20m
6 7- 17m
7 6 18m

FA:

FA: Jul 2023

Sport 150m, 7 Valle del Sarca
7b+ La Gnogna

Shares anchor with Super Swing.

Sport 26m Valle del Sarca
6a Il Secondo Specchio
Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
7c+ Senza nome 1

Set: Francois Legrand

Sport 12m Valle del Sarca
7b Tartufon Meraviglios
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
7a Karl Knopf
Sport Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 5 Via Linda (rechter Ausstieg) Sport 35m Valle del Sarca
6a+ Le temps ont changés
Sport 12m Valle del Sarca
7c Nisida
Sport Valle del Sarca
6a+ Il Terzo Specchio

Old slings and enough new bolts. You will be in contact with the trees.

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
8b Senza nome 2

Set: Giorgio Manica

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
7b Grill Grill
1 6c 25m
2 7b 20m
Sport 45m, 2 Valle del Sarca
6c Tin Tin
Sport Valle del Sarca
6b+ Grandi Praterie per Manitu
Sport 25m Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 6 Via Linda (linker Ausstieg) Trad 50m, 2 Valle del Sarca
1983
7b+ Super Swing

FA: Heinz Mariacher, 1983

Sport Valle del Sarca
1986
8a Chipped Elephant Baby

The first 8a of the Sarca Valley! Chipped holds.

FFA: Rolando Larcher, 1986

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
8b Gravity Games

Set: Rolando Larcher, 1986

Sport 24m Valle del Sarca
2003
8c+ Zauberfee

Set: Gerhard Hörhager

FFA: Christian Bindhammer, 2003

Sport 20m Valle del Sarca
6b Via Ape Maia
1 6a
2 5c
3 5c
4 6a
5 6b
6 6a
7 5a

Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2003

Sport 200m, 7 Valle del Sarca
2004
6b Giù dalle brande

Leads into Via Concordia.

Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2004

Sport 260m, 8 Valle del Sarca
6b+ Via Penelope
1 6a+
2 6a+
3 5c
4 6b+
5 5c
6 6b - c

Set: G. Mantovani, 2004

Sport 200m, 6 Valle del Sarca
6b Porci con le ali
1 6b
2 6a
3 5a
4 6a
5 6a
6 5c

http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-porci-con-le-ali.html

Set: Diego Filippi & Roly Galvagni, 2004

Sport 180m, 6 Valle del Sarca
6b+ Via Pantarei
1 6b
2 6b+
3 5c
4 6b
5 6a
6 6a

Set: R. Galvagni & D. Filippi, 2004

Sport 180m, 6 Valle del Sarca
2006
{UIAA} 6 Via Helena
1 5+
2 5+
3 5+
4 6
5 6
6 5
7 4+
8 6

FFA: H. Grill, F. Heiß, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner, S. Königseder & U. Grothen, 2006

Sport 230m, 8 Valle del Sarca
6c A0 Via Simpatiche Canaglie
1 5c 25m
2 6c 40m
3 5c 45m
4 6b 20m
5 6c 50m
6 5b 45m

3rd pitch crosses Via Bon Ton.

Set: Diego Mabboni & Federico Cazzanelli, 2006

Sport 230m, 6 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 6 Via Aphrodite
1 6
2 6
3 5
4 3
5 5+
6 6
7 6
8 6-

Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Florian Kluckner, 2006

Sport 180m, 8, 27 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7- A0 Via Athene

FA: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

Set: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

Trad 250m, 11 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7- A0 Via Athene

FA: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

Set: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

Trad 250m, 11 Valle del Sarca
6c+ Via Roberto
1 6b
2 6b+
3 6a+
4 6a
5 6c+
6 6c
7 5+
8 6b

6b obl.

Set: Guiseppe Mantovani, 2006

Sport 8 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7+ La Fessura dell'Hades
1 6 28m
2 5+ 30m
3 5 30m
4 4 25m
5 7+ 25m
6 5+ 25m
7 5- 40m
8 4+ 40m

Shares the first 4 pitches with La Fuga dall'Hades and joins it again in the 2nd last pitch. Pitch 5 can be climbed in 6/A1.

Set: Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, 2006

Sport 240m, 8 Valle del Sarca
6 La Fuga dall'Hades
1 6
2 5+
3 5
4 4+
5 4
6 6
7 4+

Set: Heinz Grill & Sigrid Grill, 2006

Sport 200m, 7 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 7 A0 Via Sette Muri
1 4
2 6+
3 6
4 5
5 6
6 6
7 6+
8 1
9 5+
10 7 A0
11 6+

Set: Heinz Grill, F. Kluckner & A. Kluckner, 2006

Sport 11 Valle del Sarca
2007
6c Sindrome de Makita
1 5c
2 6b+
3 6c
4 5a
5 6a
6 3
7 5b

Set: H. Grill & F. Kluckner, 2007

Sport 190m, 7 Valle del Sarca
6a Via Pilastro Themis

Beautiful and fun climbing on solid rock. A few sections, on the third and fourth pitch, are truly spectacular. The line is logical and elegant and the protection is always good and sufficient. The route's difficulties make it one of the hardest on this face.

FA: H. Grill & S. Königseder, 2007

Sport 180m, 5 Valle del Sarca

Showing 1 - 100 out of 154 routes.

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