Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
6b | Il brigante Goria
| Valle del Sarca | |||
6a | Tenax
| 15m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c | Balle Bollenti
| Valle del Sarca | |||
4c | ★★ Bella Marisa
Short warm up in the shades. | 10m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | L'om sec...
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Not Only Apple
Same start as Parassiti d'Oltralpe but branches out left. | 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | ★★ Obelix
1
6b
2
6c
| 37m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | ★★ Unnamed 1
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a+ | Avatar
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Via Calliope
1
4
20m
2
5+
40m
3
5+
30m
4
4+
30m
5
5+
20m
6
4+
50m
a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag. | 190m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b | La padelle
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
8a | La Pista
| Valle del Sarca | |||
6b | Ossa
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | Parassiti d'Oltralpe
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | Break Dance
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6+ | ★★ Dirade
1
5
2
6+
3
4+
4
5+
5
5
Aufgrund der Kirche unterhalb der Route darf an Sonn- und Feiertagen nicht geklettert werden. No climbing allowed on Sundays and bank holidays due to the Mass held in the small church. | 150m, 5 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | ★★ Without name
| 15m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5c | Con un Fischio
| 12m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b | La Gita
| Valle del Sarca | |||
7a | 9/7=7
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b+ | Copacabana
| 33m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
8c+ | ★ Zauberfee
Set: Gerhard Hörhager FFA: Christian Bindhammer, 2003 | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | Calimba de Luna
| 38m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a+ | Cavoli tuoi
Crosses the route that starts on the right of it. | 17m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Tenebre
| 38m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c+ | Porca Vacca
| Valle del Sarca | |||
? | Pedro
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Dolce Marina
| 22m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5c | Senza bom
| 17m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | Bicipiti in Vacanza
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c+ | Spigolo della Tibia Silenziosa
Extension of Tibia Silenziosa. | 35m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | Herpes
Moves left on top. | 35m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Armando Diaz
| Valle del Sarca | |||
8a+ | L'etic Del Ba. Ro.
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
8c+/9a | ★★★ St. Anger
Set: Francois Legrand FA: Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b | White Line
| 10m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7 A0 | ★ Via Ermete
1
6
2
7
3
7
4
7-
5
6+
6
7 A0
| 180m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | La Rivincita dei Piedi
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
Unknown 1
| Valle del Sarca | ||||
7b | Herpes tropicale
Direct variant of Herpes. | 35m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a | Greppo Greppo
1
6a
20m
2
5c
20m
| 40m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Sabina Direkt
1
3+
2
4
3
6-
4
4
5
4
6
5+
This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton). A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs. To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint. | 170m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c | Tibbia Silinziosa
Up to the first anchor. | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
8a | ★★ Caty mini
Set: Francois Legrand | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5c | Senza Balle
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b+ | Pipistrello
FA: Heinz Mariacher | Valle del Sarca | |||
7a | La Principessa sul Pisello
Extension of Tin Tin. | 40m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Monacù
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | ★★ Karl Dalle
1
6c+
20m
2
6b
20m
| 40m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
Via Lanterna
| Valle del Sarca | ||||
7c+ | Dune
| 22m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Caduta Sassi
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c | Indiana Jones
| 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b | ★ No Name
Water holes and friction. Old pegs (red). | 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Sultan of Swing
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | Bip bip
1
6c+
30m
2
6a
20m
| 50m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b+ | ★★ Sirac En Rut
Same start as Unnamed 1 but connects right into Karl Knopf. | 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
8a | Spirito Libero
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | Pioneer
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 5- | ★★ Il sole che solleva | 140m, 6, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5c | ★ Il Primo Specchio
New bolts, but with a long runout in the middle. | 15m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a+ | ★★ La cengia rossa extension
Nice pitch starting on tufas to the right of the top of La Cengia Rossa. | 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c+ | Dracurella
1
7a
25m
2
7c+
20m
| 45m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b+ | Topolino
Shares anchor with first pitch of Sirac en rut. | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | Super Tilt
| 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7- | ★★ Via Katl
1
6-
25m
2
6
30m
3
6
30m
4
gehen
10m
5
5
20m
6
7-
17m
7
6
18m
FA: FA: Jul 2023 | 150m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b+ | La Gnogna
Shares anchor with Super Swing. | 26m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a | ★ Il Secondo Specchio
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c+ | Senza nome 1
Set: Francois Legrand | 12m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b | Tartufon Meraviglios
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7a | Karl Knopf
| Valle del Sarca | |||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★ Via Linda (rechter Ausstieg) | 35m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a+ | Le temps ont changés
| 12m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7c | Nisida
| Valle del Sarca | |||
6a+ | ★ Il Terzo Specchio
Old slings and enough new bolts. You will be in contact with the trees. | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
8b | Senza nome 2
Set: Giorgio Manica | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
7b | Grill Grill
1
6c
25m
2
7b
20m
| 45m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c | ★★ Tin Tin
| Valle del Sarca | |||
6b+ | ★ Grandi Praterie per Manitu
| 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Linda (linker Ausstieg)
1
6
27m
2
6
23m
| 50m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
1983 | |||||
7b+ | Super Swing
FA: Heinz Mariacher, 1983 | Valle del Sarca | |||
1986 | |||||
8a | Chipped Elephant Baby
The first 8a of the Sarca Valley! Chipped holds. FFA: Rolando Larcher, 1986 | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
8b | ★★ Gravity Games
Set: Rolando Larcher, 1986 | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ||
2003 | |||||
8c+ | ★ Zauberfee
Set: Gerhard Hörhager FFA: Christian Bindhammer, 2003 | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b | ★★ Via Ape Maia
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6a
5
6b
6
6a
7
5a
Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2003 | 200m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ||
2004 | |||||
6b | Giù dalle brande
Leads into Via Concordia. Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2004 | 260m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b+ | ★★ Via Penelope
1
6a+
2
6a+
3
5c
4
6b+
5
5c
6
6b - c
Set: G. Mantovani, 2004 | 200m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b | ★★ Porci con le ali
1
6b
2
6a
3
5a
4
6a
5
6a
6
5c
http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-porci-con-le-ali.html Set: Diego Filippi & Roly Galvagni, 2004 | 180m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Via Pantarei
1
6b
2
6b+
3
5c
4
6b
5
6a
6
6a
Set: R. Galvagni & D. Filippi, 2004 | 180m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
2006 | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Helena
1
5+
2
5+
3
5+
4
6
5
6
6
5
7
4+
8
6
FFA: H. Grill, F. Heiß, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner, S. Königseder & U. Grothen, 2006 | 230m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c A0 | Via Simpatiche Canaglie
1
5c
25m
2
6c
40m
3
5c
45m
4
6b
20m
5
6c
50m
6
5b
45m
3rd pitch crosses Via Bon Ton. Set: Diego Mabboni & Federico Cazzanelli, 2006 | 230m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Aphrodite
1
6
2
6
3
5
4
3
5
5+
6
6
7
6
8
6-
Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Florian Kluckner, 2006 | 180m, 8, 27 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7- A0 | ★★ Via Athene
FA: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006 Set: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006 | 250m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7- A0 | ★★ Via Athene
FA: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006 Set: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006 | 250m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6c+ | ★ Via Roberto
1
6b
2
6b+
3
6a+
4
6a
5
6c+
6
6c
7
5+
8
6b
6b obl. Set: Guiseppe Mantovani, 2006 | 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7+ | ★★ La Fessura dell'Hades
1
6
28m
2
5+
30m
3
5
30m
4
4
25m
5
7+
25m
6
5+
25m
7
5-
40m
8
4+
40m
Shares the first 4 pitches with La Fuga dall'Hades and joins it again in the 2nd last pitch. Pitch 5 can be climbed in 6/A1. Set: Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, 2006 | 240m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6 | ★★★ La Fuga dall'Hades
1
6
2
5+
3
5
4
4+
5
4
6
6
7
4+
Set: Heinz Grill & Sigrid Grill, 2006 | 200m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 7 A0 | Via Sette Muri
1
4
2
6+
3
6
4
5
5
6
6
6
7
6+
8
1
9
5+
10
7 A0
11
6+
Set: Heinz Grill, F. Kluckner & A. Kluckner, 2006 | 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
2007 | |||||
6c | ★★★ Sindrome de Makita
1
5c
2
6b+
3
6c
4
5a
5
6a
6
3
7
5b
Set: H. Grill & F. Kluckner, 2007 | 190m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ||
6a | ★★ Via Pilastro Themis
Beautiful and fun climbing on solid rock. A few sections, on the third and fourth pitch, are truly spectacular. The line is logical and elegant and the protection is always good and sufficient. The route's difficulties make it one of the hardest on this face. FA: H. Grill & S. Königseder, 2007 | 180m, 5 | Valle del Sarca |