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Cadarese

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Summary

Splitter granite cracks found in a beautiful mountain valley. Both bolted and clean climbs are in equal proportion.

Description

Cadarese is one of the larger crack climbing venues in central Europe. More than 50 cracks can be found from 4a - 9a (including a contender for the worlds hardest trad climb). Many of the cracks here are bolted, allowing those without trad gear (or skills) to try routes which would normally always be climbed traditionally.

Approach

Cadarese is accessed by car from northern Italy, following north from Domodossola. Get any supplies you need here as this is the closest supermarket. Once you pass Domodossola continue further North and enter the Val Formazza and up to the small town of Cadarese.

As you enter Cadarese, you will see the thermal baths, and across from this a bridge across the river. Parking for the crag is across the bridge in a small car park.

From the car park follow down the road to your right (looking at the crag) and follow an obvious path past a couple of old stone houses. The path up to the crag starts near the base of a large obvious boulder.

The path ascends steeply through the wood. It takes 5min to the lower sector and 10min to the central sector. Another 10min are needed for the upper sectors or the sector Crack Party.

For a detailed description on how to reach Cadarese by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

Where to stay

Accomodation can be found in Domodossola, or the larger cities further south. Wild camping, whilst officially illegal in all of Italy has been tolerated at some times near the crag in the picnic area. If camping make sure to be clean, quiet, pitch late and follow leave no trace ethics.

Ethic

Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb.

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Author(s): P. Stoppini, M. Pellizzon, F. Manoni

Date: 2019

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Fri 3 Mar
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