Routes in Nagano / Toyama

Rotue up the river that goes to the top. Up to 15 waterafalls, small to big

Scramble / Solo over 8 peaks to the summit, Starting from 8 finishing at Peak 1 at the summit of Maehotaka (前穂高岳).

Many start from thecol between peaks 6-5, The more exciting sutff is from 5 ntil the summit

Peak 4 has a few fixed pitons but it not difficult Peak 3 consists of approximately 4 pitches (Grades IV, II, III, III) There are some other minor variations. From Peak 4 there is a 20m rapel down the back side before the final scramble to the summit (Peak 1)

There are various descents along the regular hiking trails.

All along the Watch Tower

Mostly a very easy ridge startng from the Tsrugi sawa (剣沢） and Heizoudani (平蔵谷） junction, a few fixed pitons and areas you may want to rope up. The route goes over 2 prominant peaks with a 30m abseil off the back side of the 2nd peak, then a final scramble up loose rock to the summit.

The most common/simple route, Approach via Choujiroudani （長次郎谷） to the 5 / 6 peak gully to join the main ridge over peaks 6, 7 and 8 until you reach the Chinne (チンネ) Summit.

Descend via the Choujiroudani （長次郎谷） or 2 hour hike to Tsurgi dake summit and down the regular hiking trail.

A very very long day!

Approach via Choujiroudani （長次郎谷） folowing the line of lease resistance to the main ridge line. from the main ridge climb over all peaks until you reach the Chinne (チンネ) Summit.

Descend via the Choujiroudani （長次郎谷） or 2 hour hike to Tsurugi dake summit（剣岳山頂） and down the regular hiking trail.

In a different guide book the grades are,

5.11c, 5.11b, 5.10a, 5.12c, 5.9, 5.12a/b

main ice fall (Honryū, 本流) 3 falls but the first fall is normally skipped since it is directly over the pond at the base and doesn't often freeze

Left route (左ルート), 2 pitches, F1 50m and F2 40m (Japanese grade VI)

Central route (中央ルート), 2 pitches, F1 45m and F2 40m (Japanese grade VI-)

Right route (右ルート), 2 pitches, F1 40m and F2 35m WI5+ (Japanese grade VI-)

Ichinotaki (一の滝), 7m WI3+

Ninotaki (二の滝), 55m WI4+ (Japanese grade V+)

Sannotaki (三の滝), 30m WI4

Honryū right flank falls (右側壁の氷瀑) – 50m WI4+ (Japanese grade V+ to VI)

兜岩山の斜面にカブコロン Namenekofōru, kabukoron Overhanging ice formation with delicate climbing and very little protection over the first 15m. You will need to be an experienced climber to attempt this climb.