Routes in Mizugaki Yama

F0.4～4　Mid size range Route name translates as"Fudosawa lovers party route".

天才の証明 Translates as "Proof of genius" F1.5～3

Classic Slab route. The route is in a prime location with gallery style viewing and combines fantasic moves. This is the classic Japanese Slab route at the lower grade.

1級SD This boulder is incredibly small.

Anonymous Roof Crack

F1.5～3.5

Fantastic example of a hard Japanese style slab route. Prime viewing location for spectators.

Translates as "Right Arete Route"

C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams

(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook).

Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.

1. Corner to a small roof, then wander left across cracked face, heading for a big tree. This tree often has slings for the rap descent, but better spots to anchor further back on ledge.

2. The obvious chimney above, protection in cracks and some chockstones. Slightly tricky offwidth exit to gain a large ledge.

3. The money pitch. Overhanging crack for a few metres (tree is probably in, it's trad), then the angle decreases but a variety of crack sizes await in the long corner above. Endurance required.

4. Go up right corner/slab for 5m, horizontally right for a few metres then downclimb, to reestablish an anchor.

5. Final short offwidth to the top.

Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left.

The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it.

Gear: double rack + #4 and #5.

夏木立 1級 リップトラパース

F1～4 2-3set use70m

This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock

Translates as Snake Route Left

The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

The Japanese climbing grade is rated as 5級 (5 Kyuu)

Starts on huge jugs and big features, but quickly changes to very small holds and bad feet just as the wall starts to become overhung. The crux of the climb is the last 5m. Save your energy and your nerves for the top section as it is very technical, pumpy and run out. This is a great climb and should be attempted at least once.

The route translates as "king of beasts".

This is a fantastic route that is only marred by the scrappy start. The real climbing starts from the OW size crack (more like a squeeze chimney then an off-width). Put in a number BD #6 and then begin to grunt your way up. If you like wide off-width climbing then give this climb another 1 star. The OW changes to a perfect fist/hand size overhanging crack that continues directly straight up all the way to the anchor. It is best to 2nd the climb to clean the route. BD 0.75 ～6) It would be recommended that you take 2x BD #5 unless you don't mind having long runouts.

This route is on the rock formation known as 'Penguin Rock'

Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1～4

Translates as Snake Route Right. Watch out for the tree at half height. Any fall above the gear while ascending the twin crack section at the top of the route will result in hitting the tree below. The tree has already accounted for one rushed trip to the emergency room to patch up a big gouge in one climbers buttocks after he fell at the lip of the twin crack section.

Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.

1. Left-leaning crack to tree. Possible to link with the next pitch if you don't have too much drag.

2. Traverse left along ledge to base of steep crack.

3. Steep crack - be careful of fragile rock, especially the hanging tufa-like thing near the start. Otherwise an enjoyable pitch. One old bolt near the start.

4. V-groove flaring crack, initially steep then slabby but widens, requiring some offwidth technique. Old bolted anchor or use gear.

5. Scramble through boulders behind then short crack to the summit, gear anchor.

Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

F3～4, T5～6

Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。　A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route.

First pitch is a fantastic flake traverse around an arête which finishes at the anchor for Hyakuu no oo. The second pitch starts up in a chimney and then you step out onto the face and then up an off width crack to the top. Beware the top off width crack, if you are not used to off width climbing you will think you have just been sandbagged (don't think it us an easy 5.8)

Translates as "Sound of a stream route" F1～3 This route is on the rock formation known as 'Seal Rock'

Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain.

The Same Variation

Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name)

Translates as "Snake Pit"

God Hand

なきっつら

ガリ子ちゃん

Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.

F1.5～4

Translates as "Angels Stairs"

Add, one more star for the 1st Pitch (once it is cleaned). The second pitch is a classic Off-width test piece and deserves the two stars.

Translates as "Life theater"

Japanese climbing grade 2 Kyuu (2級)

Rhododendron Guitar 石楠花三味

Translates as ”Finishing touch”

F1～4,K1, L1