Node |
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Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Simple Boulder |
5
Finger Crack SD
The sit start to Finger Crack. |
4+
Face
Start with hands on the boss on the lip. |
6A
★ Face SD
Climb Face from a sit start. Kasama grading has a stiff reputation for things like this - 6A going on 7A. |
4+
Mantle (6 kyū)
Mantle onto the slab. |
6B
Protein
From the low arête, hand traverse the lip leftwards until the holds get worse. Then mantle. |
6C+
Super Protein
Start as for Protein, but keep traversing until the very end. Then mantle. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Cheap Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Cheap Boulder |
6B
★ Simple and Cheap
Layback up the right arête of the slab. Getting established is the crux. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Kasaman
A small boulder home to one mantle problem. The name Kasaman is a play on Kasama and man. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Kasaman |
6C
★ Kasaman
Start low with hands on the lip, and mantle over. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Washington Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Washington Boulder |
5
Jump Club
From the ground jump to the lip, then mantle. Tall people can reach the lip from the ground. |
6B+
★★ Washington Club
The delicate arête on its left hand side. |
7A+
★ Boston Club
Smear up the right hand side of the arête and mantle onto the top. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Sekkijin Boulder
Name means the stonemason's slab. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Sekkijin Boulder |
4+
Sekkijin Slab Left
Layback up the left arête of the boulder. |
5
Kante SD (5 kyū)
Start sitting with both hands on the arête, then climb onto it and up it. |
7A+
★★ Sekkijin Slab Chūō
Climb up the slab slightly left of centre, passing two minuscule crimps. Finish at the top of the boulder, i.e. don't bail to the left arête. |
7B
Sekkijin Slab Domannaka
A harder variation of Sekkijin Slab Chūō climbing direct up the centre. |
3
Sekkijin Slab Right
Climb the right arête of the boulder. There is also a variation at Font 6A (4 kyū) that excludes the lip. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Hangman Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Hangman Boulder |
6C
★★★ Hangman
Starting with hands on the lip, throw a leg up and mantle. Variations mantling both with the left and right leg exist. |
7C
★ Q-Ban
A Tokio Muroi test piece. Start sitting and climb up the steep face using crimps. Finish as for Hangman. |
7B+
Pīman-tei
Traverse the sloping lip leftwards into Hangman and finish. Named after the Green Pepper Restaurant. |
1
10 kyū
|
3
Face (8 kyū)
|
4
Slab (7 kyū)
Hard for the grade. |
4+
Chockman
Climb up between the boulders. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Practice Boulder
A gentle boulder with one hard face. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Practice Boulder |
2
Practice Man
Climb up the left face. Can be started sitting. |
3
Foot Traverse
Traverse between Practice Man and Kante Hidari without using the lip of the boulder for hands. |
3
SD (8 kyū)
Sit start. |
1
Ōkaku (10 kyū)
Smear up the runnel. |
3
Kante Hidari (8 kyū)
Climb up the arête, starting on its left hand side. |
6A
Kante SD (4 kyū)
A mantle problem on the undercut arête. Start sitting and pull up and over onto the arête. |
5
Kante (5 kyū)
A tricky start to get established onto the right side of the arête, which is then climbed to the top. |
7A
★★★ Okamochi
Climb the face with difficulty to the very top of the boulder, eliminating the left arête. 'Okamochi' refers to the old style of carrying soba and udon noodle boxes above the shoulder with a palm facing up. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Hip Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Hip Boulder |
6C
★ Hip Mantle
Mantle leftwards onto the slab. |
7B+
★ Shiki
Make a big move leftwards from the jugs to the lip of Hip Mantle, then finish up that problem. |
7A+
★★★ Moran
Start on the jugs and use intermediary holds to finish leftwards above the lip of Hip Mantle. The crack of Fist Crack is out. |
7B
Moran Direct
A direct finish to Moran using holds on the left side within the crack, but not jamming the crack itself. |
4+
★ Fist Crack
Traditional style climbing that perplexes many hotshots visiting from Tokyo's gyms. |
5+
Under Traverse
Traverse leftwards and finish when you reach the top of the jugs. |
7B
★ Black Thunder
Start as for Under Traverse, but instead of using holds on the jug rail below the crack, undercut the top side of the crack and use hands on the right arête to get established with feet on the jugs. Continuing undercutting upwards before it is possible to make a long move our rightwards to a big hold on Aerodancer around the right arête. Top out direct. The grade is very reach dependent. |
6A+
★ Aerodancer
Climb the slabby arête on its right side. |
6C+
Naoto Slab
Name means 'climb direct slab'. Avoid using holds on Ankrah Slab to the right. |
4
Ankrah Slab
The shallow crack. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Sunshine Boulder
The large slab hanging onto the slope below the Hip Boulder. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Sunshine Boulder |
5.12a
Sunshine
A serious, unprotected, venture up the slab. Rarely climbed. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Horidashi Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Horidashi Boulder |
4
7 kyū
Start sitting at the base of the arête and pull on using crimps. Swing round left onto the slab and climb this to finish. |
5+
4 kyū
Pull on as per the previous route, but climb the crimps rightwards to the top. |
6A+
Kante Hidari (3 kyū)
Start RH on the high undercling, LH on the arête. |
6B+
Horidashimono
Sit start then traverse the boulder lip leftwards to finish up Kante Hidari (3 kyū). Name means 'dug out treasure'. |
4
Mantle (7 kyū)
Mantle onto the sticking out hold. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Mumei Boulder #1
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Mumei Boulder #1 |
5+
Crack (4 kyū)
Dig out all the dirt in the crack between the boulders, sit down, then climb it. Finish out rightwards to the top of the main boulder. |
6C
Double Dyno
Climb the arête of the boulder on its left side. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Hop Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Hop Boulder |
5+
Mantle SD (4 kyū)
Start sitting and climb the flake to the top. |
6A
★ Tankobu
Start on underclings in the crack. Named after the lump that formed on the first ascensionist's head after a hold broke. |
4+
★ Hop Mantle
Jump to the lip, find the best holds, then mantle. |
2
Yoisho
Bit of a pull to get established. |
4
Sunao
Step onto the boulder, then trend rightwards to the top. Name means 'gentle'. |
4+
Wana
Name means 'trap', after the hole in the ground that used to exist below this problem. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Mumei Boulder #2
Actually a pair of boulders in close proximity. The problems do not see much traffic and can often do with a good brush before climbing. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Mumei Boulder #2 |
5
Lip Traverse (5 kyū)
Traverse the lip from left to right, then mantle at the top. |
4+
Kante Migi (6 kyū)
Start with hands on the arête and climb leftwards. |
6A
Slab (4 kyū)
Climb the nose of the boulder. |
3
Lip Traverse (8 kyū)
Start in the crack right of Slab (4 kyū), then traverse the lip rightwards. Mantle at the end of the boulder. A sit start is also possible at about Font 5. |
4+
Mantle (6 kyū)
A small mantle problem. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Poco Boulder
The obvious cantilever boulder that is a home to an old aid route on its overhanging face. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Poco Boulder |
6C+
Hand Traverse (1 kyū)
Hand traverse the lip from left to right, then mantle at the nose onto the top. Highball and dangerous, so not often climbed. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Kante Boulder
Home to one good arête problem. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Kante Boulder |
5
Kante (5 kyū)
Start LH on arête, RH on undercling or thin crimp. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Estuko Boulder
A boulder with an obvious egg-shaped face. It is named after the fading red graffiti about Etsuko's bosom. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Estuko Boulder |
5
Etsuko's xxxx
A fridge-hugging problem. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Boss Boulder
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Boss Boulder |
7A+
The Big Boss
|
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Kinoko Boulder
Home to a couple of slab problems and one good traverse. Kinoko means 'mushroom'. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Kinoko Boulder |
6C+
★ Mudai (1 kyū)
Sit start from the flake, then traverse the lip of the boulder leftwards. |
4
Escape (7 kyū)
Start as for Mudai (1 kyū), but pull round right onto the slab, which is then climbed to finish. |
2
Slab (9 kyū)
Smear up the slab. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area |
Michibata Boulder
Secluded from the crowds and home to some fun low grade problems. Michibata mean 'roadside'. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Main Area Michibata Boulder |
5
★ Kante Hidari (5 kyū)
Start with LH on crimp on the face left of the arête, RH on the arête itself. |
5+
★ Kante Migi (4 kyū)
Start with hands on each arête, then trend round the right arête and on to the top. |
1
Slab (10 kyū)
An easy slab problem. |
4+
Toehook Arête (6 kyū)
Not very good. |
4
No Name (7 kyū)
Use the vertical flake below the lip to climb direct to the top. |
4+
★ Mantle (6 kyū)
Without using the flake of the previous problem, climb rightwards via a devious move to mantle onto the big foothold out right. |
5
Mantle (5 kyū)
Mantle onto the big hold and then on to the top. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder |
Sango Area
A small area beneath the paved road/path that contours around Mount Sashiro at mid-height. Home to the Sango (Coral), Inyou and No-name A boulders. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Sango Area |
Sango Boulder
A long undercut boulder that is home to a hard test piece (Uruma - 7B), a long juggy traverse (Jukai - 7A+) and a few easier problems. |
Ibaraki Ken Kasama Boulder Sango Area Sango Boulder |
7A+
★ Jukai
A long lip traverse. Start at the far left and get established on the lip. Traverse rightwards until the very end (i.e. the top out of SD (5 kyū)) then top out. Name means 'sea of trees'. |
7B
★ Uruma
Start on underclings deep within the overhang, and climb out past a crimp to the lip of the boulder. Mantle it out to finish. |
7B
Hateruma
Start as for Uruma, but once hands are on the lip enter into and finish as for Jukai. |
2
Mantle (9 kyū)
An easy mantle problem. |
5+
Sideless Mantle
A harder mantle problem. |
6A
Hidari Nuke
Pull on and finish leftwards. Name means 'fall left'. |