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Routes as sport in Gamma Lower Slab

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.8 New Gamma 1

Pleasant slab climbing, the cleanest of the new bunch. Start directly below two big pockets, one above the other. Climb the scruffy lower slab past a poor peg to a flake and follow this to a lovely jug at a long horizontal ledge/break. Pull up to the pockets and continue pleasantly to finish direct up the easier angled top slab. You can also start by traversing the break right from the white flake.

Sport 23m
5.10a New Gamma 2

More pleasant slab climbing, this time with a stiff crux. Start directly below the huge pocket about 3m right of NewGam 1. Climb to the pocket and make a hard sequence to escape this. Finish direct up the easier angled top slab.

Sport 22m
5.9 New Gamma 3

Yet more pleasant slab climbing, but still a bit dirty up top. Start just left of the vegetated right edge of the slab below a shallow corner. After a steep pull, climb easily to the corner and continue to a small tree in a horizontal break. Make a tricky pull onto the top slab, then climb quite scarily up the scruffy slab to a lower-off. 60m rope required.

Sport 28m
5.9 New Gamma 4

And more of the same, also a bit dirty up top. Pull over a bulge right of NewGam 3 (or traverse in from higher up the slope on the right) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required.

Sport 27m
5.8 New Gamma 5

NewGam 4's twin. Pull onto the slab right of NewGam 4 (left of a ring bolt) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required.

Sport 27m
5.11a New Gamma 6

The start is hard and technical and needs a thorough clean. Start round to the right of the vegetated right edge of the main slab below a big flake. Scramble leftwards up 5m of dirt to a bolt left of the flake. Clip and make an interesting but dirty and hard sequence to a foothold on the left. Step left and clip, and then move back right and pull onto the top slab. Finish direct, but take care not to disturb a rather delicate pancake of rock just below the lower-off.

Sport 28m
5.9 New Gamma 7

A steep, juggy start is followed by a solid but scruffy slab. Start as for NewGam 6, but climb real rock to the big flake. Pull up onto the flake, then pull right into a recess. Continue up and slightly left to gain the top slab. Finish pleasantly enough up this. It is possible to head left from the flake to join NewGam 6 for the top slab

Sport 24m
5.10b New Gamma 8

A steep climb with some good moves on suspect rock. Start about 6m right of NewGam 5. Pull steeply up just right of an alarmingly perched block to a good undercut. A difficult reach from this gains a boss and an easing in angle. Lower-off.

Sport 23m

Showing all 8 routes.

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