Showing all 8 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 | ★ New Gamma 1
Pleasant slab climbing, the cleanest of the new bunch. Start directly below two big pockets, one above the other. Climb the scruffy lower slab past a poor peg to a flake and follow this to a lovely jug at a long horizontal ledge/break. Pull up to the pockets and continue pleasantly to finish direct up the easier angled top slab. You can also start by traversing the break right from the white flake. | 23m | |||
5.10a | ★ New Gamma 2
More pleasant slab climbing, this time with a stiff crux. Start directly below the huge pocket about 3m right of NewGam 1. Climb to the pocket and make a hard sequence to escape this. Finish direct up the easier angled top slab. | 22m | |||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 3
Yet more pleasant slab climbing, but still a bit dirty up top. Start just left of the vegetated right edge of the slab below a shallow corner. After a steep pull, climb easily to the corner and continue to a small tree in a horizontal break. Make a tricky pull onto the top slab, then climb quite scarily up the scruffy slab to a lower-off. 60m rope required. | 28m | |||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 4
And more of the same, also a bit dirty up top. Pull over a bulge right of NewGam 3 (or traverse in from higher up the slope on the right) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required. | 27m | |||
5.8 | ★ New Gamma 5
NewGam 4's twin. Pull onto the slab right of NewGam 4 (left of a ring bolt) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required. | 27m | |||
5.11a | ★ New Gamma 6
The start is hard and technical and needs a thorough clean. Start round to the right of the vegetated right edge of the main slab below a big flake. Scramble leftwards up 5m of dirt to a bolt left of the flake. Clip and make an interesting but dirty and hard sequence to a foothold on the left. Step left and clip, and then move back right and pull onto the top slab. Finish direct, but take care not to disturb a rather delicate pancake of rock just below the lower-off. | 28m | |||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 7
A steep, juggy start is followed by a solid but scruffy slab. Start as for NewGam 6, but climb real rock to the big flake. Pull up onto the flake, then pull right into a recess. Continue up and slightly left to gain the top slab. Finish pleasantly enough up this. It is possible to head left from the flake to join NewGam 6 for the top slab | 24m | |||
5.10b | New Gamma 8
A steep climb with some good moves on suspect rock. Start about 6m right of NewGam 5. Pull steeply up just right of an alarmingly perched block to a good undercut. A difficult reach from this gains a boss and an easing in angle. Lower-off. | 23m |
Showing all 8 routes.