Routes in Japan for selected grade

there is a variante in 5.11d

5.11b, 5.10a

Crosses "Crossroads"

Translates as "Hole employees"

Japanese Grade (2級)

Name translates as "People of Stars"

An excellent 4-pitch route. Also well worth it if you do Koinuma-Yonekura Crack as pitch 4. Take a variety of Friends for the double cracks on the first pitch.

1. 5.10c Start where the slab starts to blend left and up into the hillside. Climb the slab to an arete. Hard moves up this lead to a sloping ledge on the right. Swing left to the base of twin cracks and climb these to belay at a tree.

2. 5.10a Step left, surmount a small overhang, then climb the slab above to a good ledge and belay.

3. 5.9 Climb the very short slab behind the belay to a big ledge below the final tower.

4. 5.11b Climb the centre of the face on the left to finish on the top of this particular part of the world.

A superb pitch! If you ever see this from below, you'll want to do it.

Descend by abseiling 50m down the back left face to where the gully becomes walkable then stumble back down to the start of the route. You can split the ab at one of the route's belays if necessary.

The steep crack on the left side of the crag. A long-standing top-rope problem, now bolted, kind of.

Follow the crack to a lower-off. Crux midway.

Tengu is a red-faced goblin with a long nose, and Kurama isn't. A good steep finish to Phoenix.

Start from the top of Phoenix. Follow good holds leading right and up to a corner, then pull airily through the bulges on the right.

The bolts might look in the wrong place, but once you have a good look at the route and rock around, you will notice that they are about right.

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

Translates as "Long farewell"

Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.

Pitch 2 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free

Yon Dan Hang pitch 1 climbed free

Coming off kyougikai route, stick to the far right line of bolts

Using the lip is okay.

Start as for Heartbeat Arête, but swing round onto the left of the arête and on to the top. Scarier than than the original.

Climb Face from a sit start. Kasama grading has a stiff reputation for things like this - 6A going on 7A.

A mantle problem on the undercut arête. Start sitting and pull up and over onto the arête.

Traverse leftwards and finish when you reach the top of the jugs.

Pull on as per the previous route, but climb the crimps rightwards to the top.

Dig out all the dirt in the crack between the boulders, sit down, then climb it. Finish out rightwards to the top of the main boulder.

Start sitting and climb the flake to the top.

Start on underclings in the crack. Named after the lump that formed on the first ascensionist's head after a hold broke.

Climb the nose of the boulder.

Start with hands on each arête, then trend round the right arête and on to the top.

A harder mantle problem.

Pull on and finish leftwards. Name means 'fall left'.

Do as the name says and lunge rightwards to the lip.

One of the best problems of the grade at Kasama. The left arête is in. The grade is very reach dependent.

Mantle problem using the sloping crack and the thin rail above to gain the left hand side of the slab. A sit start coming in from the bottom of the Neko crack is also possible at 6A.

More a sidepull / gaston move than an undercling.

Mantle onto the arete left of Paradise Gate.

Comfortably use the large holds for the overhang. Approach the face directly above the bolt.

Start from the left hold of Around the corner. Share the same start as Shark Shark Mantle.

Start from the left hold of Around the corner. Share the same start as Under.

Straight up from the roof base and go through the left roof line.

Jump and mantle; easy for tall people. Bad landing.

Climb under the roof, ends at the big jug.

Use the crack that goes to the upper right. After the crack go directly above.

Traverse from the right edge to the left pocket.