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Routes in Gorf Antar-Um Raza, north face for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5/5+ Garbure et Cornichons

FA: V.Seger & R.Thivel, 2003

Trad 90m, 3
5+ All Quiet on the Western Front
1 5+
2 4+
3 5

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

FA: P.Jammeron & A.Vildard, 2003

Trad 100m, 3

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