• Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 10



Access issues inherited from Watertower

The Watertower side of Lukenya is not owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya, so please respect any instructions given by the landowners. So far bouldering has been well accepted there.

Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.


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#crimpy #juggy

FA: Eric Ducroix

Stand-start just behind the small tree, which can be padded so you don't fall into it. Left hand starts on a small left-hand crimp (couple of fingers) and a right-hand pinchy crimp. Straight up from there, with a fun big move to the finishing jug. One for Moonboard aficionados.

FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023

To the right of Crème Brûlée. Sit-start on lowest holds. First move is hardest, straight up to the finishing jugs. Short but sweet.

FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023

Squat-start in the cave on two decent holds, move up and then left to big underclings, keeping tension to join the end of Sugar Rush. Crux is maybe avoiding dabbing the rock behind you!

FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023

Stand-start on decent hold in the horizontal crack. Move up using the arete and hold on the face to the jugs above. With 2 or 3 pads the landing is better than it looks - fun easy climb.

FA: Lucho birkner, 29 Jan 2023

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