Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 13th Dec 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Love Ledge | |||||||
5c - 6a ~6a | Gear on ★★ Pistoleros - with S | 22m, 12 | Average | ||||
Navigating around the inviting-to-use loose block without pulling or standing on it makes for an unfortunate 6a-crux. The finish of the route with the dihedral is nice.
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Vaskina Hot Rock | |||||||
7a/a+ | ★★ Commando - with S | 38m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and technical cruxes. It took me long to figure out the hard crux after the roof and then clipping the next bolt felt still super-sketchy. A few wet holds far up.
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7a | Gear on ★★★ Hot Rock - with S | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really great line. Crux to get on top of fat tufa and finish was quite wet and slippery, unfortunately. Also thought that the sequence at the finish was hard to decipher, but starts from a good rest.
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7a+ | ★★ Sympatiki - with S | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Two thin and crimpy cruxes, one quite far down and hard to read, the other close to the finish with two-finger-pocket-undercling-mayhem. This second one felt very low percentage for me, so no 2nd go.
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6b Easy | ★★ Porno Stars - with S | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice technical climbing on vertical, mostly grey rock.
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6a/a+ ~6a | ★★ Kurz Left Variation - with S | 40m, 20 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm-up on nice vertical and grey rock. Technical
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Sat 10th Dec 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Cave | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Leichen im Keller | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super Nice
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Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Right | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Sexe and Bolts | 20m, 9 | |||||
In the dark, with a headlamp
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Panagia | |||||||
7a | ★★ Berhault | 30m, 14 | |||||
Felt like 7a+
Very good.
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Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Petalo | |||||||
6c+ |
★★ Mira
2
6b
20
Followed Johan. Combined pitch 2 and 3.
3
6b
20
Followed Johan. Combined pitch 2 and 3.
6
6a
35
Followed Johan. Better climbing than it looks like. | 170m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lots of great climbing. Even pitch 6 offers some moves. Exited straight up through Deadline.
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | |||||||
6a | ★ Napadeuro - with S | 25m | Average | ||||
Well, I did not look well enough and ended up in this route that traverses all over to the left and not up the awesome looking wall... Apart from the tricky and steep start very easy. A pain to clean, best have someone clean it while following.
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6a | ★★ Tokotoukan - with S | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm-up.
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6b | ★★ Fuck the System - with S | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hoped the steeper part would be hardest, but is actually quite easy. A few tricky and technical moves in the middle were the crux.
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Olive Groove | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Uprising — 2 attempts - with S | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome piece of rock. Seems doable, but the looming rain clouds did not help.
Mono-move down low (has alternatives, works well for me). Followed by a wuite twisty/reachy bit, then crux to get to 5th bolt followed by easier climbing into a powerful finish. |
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Mon 21st Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos King of Thrones | |||||||
6b | ★ Mächtig Gewaltig - with Sammi | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad. Tufa/corner.
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7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni - with Sammi | 25m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good, involved, possibly desperate through the crux. Probably the best route here.
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7b Hard | ★ Song of Ice and Fire - with Sammi | 25m, 10 | Don't Bother | ||||
Tough and confusing. 1 fall. Was happy not to split a tip.
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Mon 21st Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Adršpach Wall | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Orange Express | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell on the last move. Was very tired from the morning session...
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6b | ★★ Řecký Bonzák | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The crux was to clip the chains...
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Mon 21st Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Elona Main | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Kneebaropoulos | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Too pumped. Need to learn to recover...
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Pillar | |||||||
5c+ Hard | ★ Mama | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up. Cruel start.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Panagia | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Edlinger | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt harder than 'Joe Brown'.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Cave | |||||||
6a - b ~6a+ | ★ Nora - with S | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting over all these bulges is not that easy for the grade - especially with them sitting immediately above ledges...
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6c | ★★ Geneve Cayenne - with S | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great piece of work. Quite sustained, some food rests and requires a bit of willpower with the runout to the final bolt.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Mikro Theos | |||||||
6b+ ~6b+ | ★ Anasa - with S | 30m, 15 | |||||
Old topo did show this as a distinct route, so I got quite confused when it traversed into the route to the left. Quite easy, new guidebook has it at 6b+ which seems about right.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Savra - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Alternates between sharp edged holes and edges, and polished glass. Great line though.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Mikro Theos | |||||||
6b+ ~6b+ | ★★ Cojones - with S | 25m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great and varied climbing along a ridge. Crux is a short overhanging section in the middle which I completely misread.
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Ilektra | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Ilektra Direct Start | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Sneaker challenge accepted!
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Saint Nicolas Saint Nicolas Left Side | |||||||
6c | ★★ Je M'en Fous - with S | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great techy face-climbing. Unfortunately got into the crux completely wrong and was unable to recover from that.
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Saint Nicolas Saint Nicolas Right Side | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Cornerboy - with S | 38m, 17 | |||||
Crux-bulge was hard to read for me. Dod take ages until I saw the right hand hold with which it was actually quite easy to get over.
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5b | ★★ Kleines Geschenk - with S | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice jugs!
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6a+ | ★★ Broom - with S | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky to get into the corner...
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Mars Main | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ pasoclave.com - with Sammi | 40m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well on the way to ticking the sector. Confusing up top as advertised. Recommend studying the topo before setting off. Or, why not, take it with you.
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7a+ Hard | ★★ Lost in Space - with Sammi | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This looks pretty mental for the grade. And is.
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7b+ | ★★ Mystère et Boule de Gomme Ext - with Sammi | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty much a joy to climb.
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6c+/7a Hard | ★★★ Mystère et Boule de Gomme - with Sammi | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
On the way to the extension.
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Mars Left | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Wilfried R.I.P - with Sammi | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Long and good on pockets. Cool moves.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Olympos | |||||||
6c+ | ★ La mina - with gazz | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Memorable route. Fell of the boulder start. Stemmy palmmy cornering up high. Cool sector.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | |||||||
6c+/7a | ★★ Amiral Ext - with gazz | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a crack at the insight, but blew it. Crux felt pretty tricky for 7a. I probably missed something.
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6b+/c | ★★ Amiral - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not bad. I don't remember much about it....
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6b+/c | ★★ Lykakia - with gazz | 30m, 16 | ★ Good | ||||
Last climbing day. Crag was quiet, great! Zero breeze, humid. Not great! Everyone else is smarter than me.... Route is a bit scrappy down low, but then is lovely climbing.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Olympos | |||||||
6c+ | ★ La mina - with Sammi | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Trad vibes galore. Hard start, then goes on forever with a huge stemming corner. You'll probably either love or hate this.
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7b+ Easy | ★★ Aggressionskontrolle - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tufas, then tiny pockets. A good one for onsighting.
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7b/b+ ~7b+ | ★★★ Chronic insastisfaccion - with Sammi | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic! Very easy to misread on the onsight. I thought harder than the 7b+ Aggressionskontrolle.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | Sofos - with Sammi | 42m, 27 | Average | ||||
Needs an extra bolt in the crux.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Bella Vista | |||||||
5c | ★★ Do It - with S | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wanted to climb "Bella Duracella" but didn't look at topo. Thought it was very easy for 6b, maybe a 5c?
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6b | ★★ Bella Duracella - with S | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Vertical climbing on mostly good holds. One balancy and steep move close to the top.
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6b/b+ | ★★ Stressless - with S | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, no really hard moves, thin holds on good feet or vice versa.
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5c | ★ Agios - with S | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
A few tricky moves on this one.
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6a | ★ Speedy | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Route has good flow. Slabby, finger-friendly. What more to ask for on a relaxed climbing day?
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Vaskina Arésos | |||||||
7b - c+ | ★★ Kosterlitz - with Beatrice | 40m, 16 | |||||
Unzureichend ausgeräumt. Viele lose Blöcke im oberen Teil. Der Henkel in der Mitte der Wand macht es ohne Sika sicher nicht mehr lange.
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Skiadiániko Left | |||||||
6a | Elephant - with S | 28m, 10 | Average | ||||
A bit of a bushwhack and contrived. Cruel crux for shorter people.
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Skiadiániko Right | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Brown Cougar — 2 attempts - with S | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two tough cruxes. The lower with smallish holds and even smaller footholds is pretty cruel, while the upper crux with a selection of over 9000 side pulls is hard to read, more powerful and sustained. After being smashed from the latter, there are still a few moves to do before you can clip the next bolt. A bit demanding, psychologically.
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6b | ★★★ Eye of the Tiger - with S | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is indeed a good route. Roof boulder is well bolted, but might still feel quite sketchy above the ledge...
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6a+ | ★★ Mr. 40 - with S | 25m, 11 | Average | ||||
Thin crux right at the second bolt. Seemed sketchy with all the rope stretch and the ledge below.
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Tue 15th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | |||||||
6c | ★★ Skilisia Apodrasi - with gazz | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Came off up high. Bouldery and slick crux.
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6c+ | ★ Brownie - with gazz | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Brutal boulder problem start, stick clipping bolt 1 a good idea. Felt hard for the grade.
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6b | ★ Medousa - with gazz | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky getting over the low bulge.
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Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | |||||||
6c | ★★ Gastone Duck - with o_g | 22m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
The holds at this sector really are some of the craziest. Must be climbed to be understood.
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7c/c+ Easy | ★★★ Zeybreak - with o_g | 40m, 19 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Biggest fight of this trip so far. Full body tufa wrestling. 1,000,000 kneebars. Would not have been pretty to watch. FA gave it 7c+ in 2016, and gets 7c+ in the Panjika guide, but 7c in the Aris guide. Probably sits somewhere in the middle, who cares, epic line reminiscent of Kalymnos Panorama sector.
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8a | ★★★ Skithropos - with gaz | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
To the crux on the flash, then pretty baffled, crazy holds - how do they even stay on the wall? Completely epic tufa up top to finish.
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6a+ | ★ Michael Bekyros - with gazz | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warmed up on this. Hot in the sun and a bit of polish made the bouldery start plenty awkward.
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6c | ★ Happy New Year - with Lee Cujes | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting and engaging climbing. Loses some quality points at the top where three routes all come close to merging, and it's unclear about what is in, and what is out.
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6c | ★★ Gastone Duck - with gazz | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaned up an old dog. Sustained crimpy faceclimbing. Quite a bit of route reading required.
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Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Dornröschen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Fußballet - with S | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great piece of crimpy vertical climbing with a few delicate and balancy moves, especially up high. Nice bolting: safe, but climbing between bolts is necessary.
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Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos King of Thrones | |||||||
5c | ★★ Chameleon - with S | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Looks worse than it is. Has a few nice moves. Good warm up.
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6a+ | ★ Cover Girl Shot - with S | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Crux right above ledge, but bold can be clipped from below.
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7a+ | ★★ Todsicher - with S | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Kind of scary - at least for me and in this grade the bolting felt quite spaced and it felt like there were places where a fall would not have been an option.
Two bulges and a thin headwall. Unfortunately clipping at crux seems super sketchy. Would like to revisit, but am a bit intimidated... |
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6b | ★ Mächtig Gewaltig - with S | 25m, 9 | Average | ||||
The middle part is nice, but getting to last bolt/top is ugly, weird bolting, loose rock.
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Right | |||||||
6a | ★ Mad Ball - with S | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Good warm up route.
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6a+ | ★★ Master of Glyka - with S | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice holds.
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7a | ★★ Master of Glyka Ext - with S | 33m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had to look hard at the crux to find a solution. Crux is getting over the lower bulge.bDirect line is very thin. Going for the jug to the left id easiest solution. Probably soft.
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6b | ★ Ride to the Top - with S | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin-ish crux to 3rd bolt. Nice route on smaller holds.
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7a+ 7a/a+ | ★ Ride to the Top Ext - with S | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Needed a hard look to find the obvious good foot to the right. Steep on good holds up to the bulge, where you must still have the power to do a reachy move, shuffle and get your legs up.
Probably soft. |
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6b | ★★ Spanakopita Ext - with S | 33m, 18 | ★ Good | ||||
Feels a bit contrived to gave the anchors up where they are. Theoretically you could do the short crux boulder and then lower off on the anchors to the left, without the easy climbing to the top.
Nonetheless, the crux boulder is quite sweet. |
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6a | ★ Boltman Ext - with S | 25m | Average | ||||
This kind of suffers from the same problem as "Spanakopita Ext". The crux is really just at the anchor of "Boltman", wgat follows is significantly easier.
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Theos Cave | |||||||
7a | ★★ Rainmen - with o_g | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One route done and then the sun decided to blaze though the clouds. Run!
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Saint Nicolas Muppet Show | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Fozzy Bear - with Beatrice | 25m, 11 | |||||
Mit Stirnlampe
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Elona Upper | |||||||
7c | ★★ El Ojo De Nazar - with Sammi | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nope! Not today. Good aggressive climbing with tricky clips. Felt at least 7c+ to me, but perhaps it would feel better in non-smeg conditions.
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6b+ | ★ Last Chance for a Slow Dance - with Sammi | 20m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
Noooo, not a good one. Actually finished on the left anchor for easier cleaning.
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7c | ★★ El Ojo De Nazar - with Sammi | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not close on the flash, even with good beta from Gaz.
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7a+ | ★ So Ill | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Reachy and powerful climbing in the first half.
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6b+ | ★ White Rabbit | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Looks short and poxy, but the first 8 metres offers brilliant climbing.
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6b+ | ★ Last Chance for a Slow Dance | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
A climb for those with a sophisticated palate. Sure the bolting is a bit weird, sure the rock is a bit sharp in places, but offers unusual rock architecture and a thrilling finale.
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Upper | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Sios - with S | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Start felt difficult, I had trouble to find the good pocket above 2nd bolt. There is one, though!
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6a/a+ ~6a | ★★ Ronti - with S | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Soft, but extremely awesome with the cute little tufas to grab on. Soft.
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6c+/7a | ★★★ Angel Low Ext — 2 attempts - with S | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The sequence felt pumpy and hard. Good holds, bad feet, gruesome boulder. Still felt shaky.
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6b+/c ~6b+ | ★★★ Angel Low - with S | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short harder sequence on good holds, shortly before anchors.
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Thu 10th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | |||||||
7b | ★★ Savra Ext - with Beatrice | 22m | |||||
soft
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Thu 10th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | |||||||
7b+ 7b/b+ | ★★★ Buddha's Eyes - with Sammi | 55m, 23 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A couple of pretty droppable moves on weird mini-tufa underclings and a cruxy clip. Took its pound of flesh from most suitors today.
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6c | ★★ 40:1 - with Sammi | 25m, 16 | ★ Good | ||||
Some soapy, shaley stuff to contend with, but generally good climbing.
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7b | ★★ 40:1 Ext - with Sammi | 45m, 25 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Goes on forever - pretty rad.
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6c+ | ★★ Doxa - with Sammi | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A lot of rock climbing!
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7a 7a - b | ★★★ Doxa Ext - with Sammi | 45m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Totally mega and well worth doing. Awesome.
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Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Elona Upper | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Lolly Pope | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got absolutely smashed.... In theory this should have been right up my alley. Nope. Really sustained on small holds with tricky clips. A couple of moves I couldn't do. Abandoned ship with tail between legs.
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Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Elona Panórama | |||||||
7a | ★★ From Berlin to Bombay - with gazz | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell of the awkward bouldery start. Restarted and managed the rest ok. Good climbing. Has a good rest at 3/4 height before the final bulge to the chains.
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6b | Lou - with gazz | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
Ten metres of nice climbing at the top doesn't rescue the ten metres of ramble at the bottom.
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Tue 8th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | |||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | |||||||
7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★ Clean Your Clock - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.
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7a+ | ★★ Clean Your Clock Ext - with gazz | 50m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got about ten metres up the extension before a misread had me off. Wouldn't have lasted much longer anyway, it's pretty sustained up there.
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6c+ | ★★ Metalizer - with gazz | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.
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