Routes as sport in Batu Caves

Hidden route to left of the gear shed. An extension of an existing route starting on the upper platform. This route starts with a boulder problem straight from the ground and finishes with 15m of tufa dancing before the anchor. Easily a classic

1 Threaded + 5 Bolts

Share same anchor Scorpion

7 Bolts + 2 Threaded 7th Bolt added 26/08/23

Retro bolting by original bolter in progress.

This route is an extension of like father like son that already bolt today (10/03/2024) by Man Dyno. 4 new bolt were added to continue the old one.

Extension bolting in progress.

slab before the crux & light overhang to the crux

Mixed protection 4 bolts and 5 threads which are in a poor state (Sept 2023)

Instead of starting on the left, start on the right side just right below the 1st bolt of Puteri. The start is a solid 6b bouldery problem. The rest is just 5c+. The Lower Off is a pair of old slings through bolts, not a chain.

Lower off is to left of large chain visible from ground

Lower off is the large chain visible from the ground. Suggest 6a+ as start is much harder than route to right.

Packs a lot of climbing into the first 3 bolts. Can clip the lower off and extend the route to the LO at the top of the cliff (33m with 2 extra bolts).

Original guide had this route as Senjang Gila, but at some point was renamed to Sunday. Reverted to original name but no change in grade

Originally known as Sunday, but changed at some point to Senyang Gila. Reverted to original name with no change in grade

Originally climbed by Akmal as Aciaci Buka Pintu but changed to TQ Dyork at some point. Returned to orginal name

Originally climbed and named 3 Brothers, but changed at some point to Singing Wall. Reverted to original name with no change in grade

Grade changed to match occurrence in Damai Left Wall

P1 5c+ 22m 10 bolts P2 6a+ 25m 9 bolts

Short route between Good Onion and Granular Spindrift.

climb pass the route Lead Man's anchor and continue to higher anchor where the 2nd pitch start. climb the line straight up until you see arete where the bolt start to go left up. recommended to carry 2-3 alpine quickdraw for avoiding rope drag.

Also, Route Extension: "Just realized" (6b) 25mtr. (Akmal Noor 2003) Original Lightning Grip anchor removed.

Monsoon got its name because it rained when they were bolting this route (or something to that effect).

Pitch 1

• Climb straight up from the ground
• Reach an anchor at approximately 10 meters in height
• Do not stop at the anchor; continue climbing
• The first anchor is on the left of the massive cave's roof

Pitch 2

• Climb up and right
• Pass a small tufa overhang, then you see the first bolt
• This pitch is the shortest

Pitch 3

• Climb straight up
• End at the left side of a bush

Pitch 4

• Climb straight up, then slightly right
• Face the crux of the pitch, a slab where you start going up and right

Pitch 5

• This pitch is not in the topo
• Climb up through a big overhang under the base jumping platform
• Still a project and ungraded, could be very difficult

Note: Ants are expected along the route.

1. First pitch. Sustain 10+ clips to the first anchor

2. Second pitch. Very tricky 6b+ route with blind crimps and a lot of bad pockets. Anchor of the third pitch is near the tree to the right

3. Third pitch. Very runout around 4m so its best to keep a level head.

4. Fourth pitch. Tricky traverse to the right and on to the tufa. After that, 5c+ all the way

A short popular introductory route

There is a poor thread beside the lower off point for Anchor which could be clipped, though there's a better bolt a little bit higher

Located on the left of Kek Lapis. Route is slightly shorter than Kek Lapis, crux part is slightly overhang.

Note that there is a severe rope drag on this route especially after you clip in right below the crux. 12 bolt and 2 threads.

Juggy crux with polished left foothold after the small cave (rest point). Advise to use longer draws to reduce rope drag.

This route is located on the extreme right of the right wall/section (the last bolted route) that starts on a wall with some grafitti on it. The route is a short 5-6m inclined bouldery sport climb with only 3 bolts and features a couple of bad crimps at the crux!

The roof up in the right side of the cave up the staircase. Be careful on the approach and at the base of the climb, some parts are slippery and sandy. Be aware that there are likely people below, and any loose rock you break off may hit someone.

The right hand most of the routes on the Left Wall. At present the routes are protected by several threads which are rotting(Sept 2023).

The route split into 2 half way, both way grade the same as 6a. Going left, try not to clip the anchor of Owl Face for the send. This is not a multipitch route.

Edit: This route has been rebolted as of 14/5/23