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Wied Faħam
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Wied Faham East
The first crag located in the north east. It has and easy approach and is located by looking for the large dam at its entrance. |
Wied Faham East |
Villa Crag
Afternoon sun |
Wied Faham East Villa Crag |
S 4a
Little Bulger
The small overhang above the slab, at the far left end of the crag |
S 4b
Mantelshelf Wall
The wall and overlap just right of Little Bulger. Start at the recess on the right. |
VD
★ Slanting Buttress
Follow the crackline up the slabby buttress with a concreate filled groove low down. Vegetated at its base |
VS 5b
Slanting Buttress Direct
The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier |
Wied Faham East |
Hangover Buttress
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Wied Faham East Hangover Buttress |
VD
Ekburg
The slab and deep cleft beneath the fig tree |
VS 4b
★★ False Start
The pocketed wall and small overhang directly behind the WD No. 24 marker stone. |
HS 4b
Hangover Buttress
To the right is an overhang above two black streaks. Past these to a bush, then up a groove |
HS 4b
Sprint Finish
The right hand end of the overhangs |
Wied Faham East |
Twin Caves
Two caves with a hanging central piller above the block wall |
Wied Faham East Twin Caves |
HVS 5a
★★ Friendly Dogs
Climb the central pillar directly |
HS 4b
★★ Pedestal Wall
Up the central pillar, moving right along the hanging bar to finish up a short wall. |
E2 5c
Resurrection Shuffle
Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang. |
S 4b
Crickey
The wall right of the cave, climb the left-slanting crack. |
Wied Faham East |
Final Buttress
The next three routes are on the tall buttress right of the twin caves |
Wied Faham East Final Buttress |
HVD 4b
★★ Final Crack
The crack in the buttress passing some (Ts) at the top. |
HS 4b
★★★ Final Wall
Centrally up the furrowed wall |
S 4b
Final Arete
The pocketed wall right, the up the arete. |
HVD
Final Buttress
A direct line up the tall buttress just right of the brick wall. |
Wied Faham East |
The Giant's Ear
This is the next buttress round the right and inside Wied Faham proper |
Wied Faham East The Giant's Ear |
D
Giant's ear Left Start
Climb the buttress just to the right of the end of the brick wall. |
HVD
The Giant's ear
The thin crack to a ledge then step right to a crack, finish by the ear |
VD
Brown Deidre
The black corner just right finishing as for The Giant's ear |
HVS 5a
About Time
Starting in the corner, climb the crack keeping left of the cave |
Wied Faham East |
The Lurcher Cave
15m right is a large cave perched above a brick wall |
Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave |
D
Short Buttress
Takes the pillar left of the cave |
E2 5c
Carambola
Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap. |
E1 5b/c
Caqlembuta
Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs |
HVS 5a
Colpogrosso
TFrom the back of the cave climb the rusty wall to a left-slanting crack and through the V-gap to finish |
VS 4c
★★ The Lurcher
The right hand inside wall of the cave finishing up the righthand V-groove past a chock stone. |
HVS 5a
Hot Crumpet
The leaning right hand pillar of the cave. Start inside the cave trending right to pass a horizontal crack at half-height |
Wied Faham East |
Chute Buttress
An excellent white buttress set between two caves |
Wied Faham East Chute Buttress |
VS 4c
★★ Shallow Groove Route
The steep groove forming the left side of the buttress just right of the cave. Finish right over the bulge |
HVS 5a
★★ Chute Buttress Direct
The vague groove just to the right passing a good thread. Finish left up a crack |
HVS 5a
★★ Asinine Ascension
The wall right, passing a scoop |
VD
Chute
The meandering crack on the right to a rib. Follow this to the top. |
Wied Faham East |
The Gape Cave
To the right is a cave with a large villa sitting almost on top. Beyond this cave the path continues past some broken buttresses to pass below a low, jutting overhang and a second, higher overhang. |
Wied Faham East The Gape Cave |
E1 5b/c
Black Sweat
The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best |
HVS 5a
★★ The Gape
Climb the back of the large bubbly brown cave starting at the diagonal crack. Up left past a thread to exit left of the hole on good jugs. Pumpy |
E2 5c
★ No Sweat
Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs. |
Wied Faham East |
Practice Point
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Wied Faham East Practice Point |
V1
★★ Practice Roof One
The short, sharp overhang. |
V0-
Practice Roof Two
First slab then another overhang finish |
Wied Faham East |
Behind the Wall
An excellent soloing/bouldering or top-roping area with potential at higher grades. Short grey walls upstream from the defensive wall and at the bottom of the stains. The first route starts immediately behind the lines. |
Wied Faham East Behind the Wall |
VD
Short and Steep
The slab left of the concrete chimney. |
VS 5a
★ Longer and Steeper
Gain the concrete chimney from below, climb the right edge of the top chimney then swing right to finish up the wall. |
E1 5c
★ Swift Undercut
The center of the wall |
HVS 5b
★ Temptation
Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack. |
MVS 4c
Birds Nest Crack
Up a thin crack near the righthand end of the wall |
D
Scooped Corner
A descent route above the boulder |
V0
★ Mid-Line Girdle
Start at the boulder, traverse left mid-height to the end. |
MVS 4c
★ Esscence of Fig
Right of the boulder behind the carob tree and above a cracked corner. Go over a bulge into a bowl and finish up the crack above. Route os overgrown with vegetation. |
E5 V8
★★ Sombrero
The lefthand section of a bulging wall above a shelf. Sharp pockets and no gear |
E2 V4
★ Deceptive
Start below a scoop at the righthand end of the wall above the shelf, up this to a t then left on big pockets to the top. |
HS 4b
Crokey
Just right is a left slanting crack behind the carob tree. |
VD
Razor Crack
Pass another crack and tree to climb a curved crack direct. |
E1 5b
★ Engagement
Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall. |
E1 5b
Disengagement
The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse |
Wied Faħam West
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Wied Faħam West |
Quarry Slabs
150m up the valley is a steepening slab with top scoop split by a blasting channel. |
Wied Faħam West Quarry Slabs |
S 4a
Scoop Left Wall
Start left of the scoop to climb smooth rock over a bulge, then up a wall to gain the scoop on the right |
HVS 5a
Faith 'n' Friction
The short technical corner just right to a difficult "pull out" onto the upper slab. Finish as for previous route. |
VS 4b
★ The Scoop
Climbs the clab to the blasting channel then up this to finish. Unprotected |
VD
A Walk on the Wild Side
Climb the broken rib, step left and up a scoop by white marks to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge and finish by the blasting channel |
HS 4b
★★ Technician's Groov
Climb a broken rib and the corner on the right to cross a bulge. Traverse right to a ledge and up the blasting channel |
D
The Jug what Wasn't
The easy angled brown slab on the opposite, east side of the vally, finishing right via scooped rock |
Wied Faħam West |
Dam Crag
50m up the valley from the dam is a buttress with a deep orange-colored scoop. Beware the brambles beneath. |
Wied Faħam West Dam Crag |
HS 4a
Faham Fault - Left Wall
Down and left of the scoop is a steep cracked wall. Climb thin cracks then step right to a groove. Step left into a scoop then finish up the crack as for The High Road |
HS 4b
The High Road
Start in the scoop. Gain the large pocket on the Lefthand wall. Traverse left onto the outside face then either climb the steep crack above (harder) or go left to finish up an easier slab. |
HVS 5a
★★ Power Failure
Wide bridging directly up the scoop to a steep and powerful pull-out at the top. |
HVS 5b
★★ Marmalade
The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish |
S 4b
Graffiti
The diagonal righthand crack on the wall right of the scoop finishing left past two horizontal breaks |
S 4b
Faham Fault
Takes a line right of the deep, elongated hole past a steep scoop, then up a short wall to finish |
M
Madalena Buttress
A historic route that climbs the buttress 10m right of the brown scoop using larg holds. Originally described by Showell Styles in his 1949 guidebook. |
Wied Faħam West |
Wimp's Wall
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission. |
Wied Faħam West Wimp's Wall |
VD
Noel's Route
A deep groove leading to a think crack, 4m left of the wide crack. |
HD
Look a Crack
The wide crack. |
4b
★★ Hanging Crack
The hanging crack on the right. |
4c
★★ Wimps Wall
The wall just right, then up a shallow scoop with a thin crack in it. |
4c
★★ Wankers Wall
The crack and groove 1m right |
5c
★★ Little Dick
150m further uphill (downstream) just beneath the defensive wall, is a hidden bay with a low cave in the back of it. Some good bouldering areas around the cave. For this route Start at the back of the vegetated bay. Pull up right of a black streak and past a thread. |
Wied Faħam West |
Ċikka
A large cave at the mouth of the valley, characterised by a crescent shaped hole in its left side and with solid buttresses either side. The first route is on the first buttress right of the descent. |
Wied Faħam West Ċikka |
VD
Look Out Wall
Virtually any line up the buttress. |
MS 4b
Look out chimney
The chimney to the right pulling out left past a flake at the top |
HVS 5a
Landover
A direct line over the root capping the chimney. Very escapable. |
D
Fall Out Wall
The next buttress right. Vegetated. |
MS 4b
Look C Chimney
The next chimney on the right |
M
Tin Can Alley
The wall, getting harder the further right you go. |
HVS 5a
★★★ Unknown Soldier
The lefthand rim of the cave, past good threads |
E2 5c
★ Ċikka
Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards. |
E2 6a
★★ Cicciolina
Up the crescent but reach for the rat-hole and exist direct |
E5 6b/c
★★ Ċikku
A crucifixion just right of the crescent. Span minimalist tufas and visualise a long reach to underclings. The rest is easy by comparison. The grade is hight dependent. |
E3 5c
★★ Custer's Last Stand
A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole. |
E2 6a
The Cavalry
The bulge just right, then a black streak in a corner scoop. |
S 4b
Fig Leaf Arete
The right edge of the cave stepping right from the cave to gain the upper arete |
S 4a
Fig Leaf Buttress
A line right of the cave mouth with a traverse right to a scoop and easy finish |
E2 5c
Wham Bam
The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish. |