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Routes in Malta for selected grade

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Showing all 100 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering
V1 Up

Through the roof ion the centre.

FA: John Moulding, 1999

Boulder
Wied Żnuber
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Minato

Climb up to a thin crack veering to the left. Follow its general direction through a sparse collection of good holds before exiting up.

FA: William Hicklin

Trad 16m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Rokna

Climb from a corner at the bottom of the valley to a good ledge. Continue up a small overhang and then straight up.

Trad 16m
Wied Bassasa Il-Bajtra
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Leon Odelot Factum Est
Trad 22m
Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Goliath
Trad 30m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Never as Good as the 1st Time
Trad 32m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Fat Old Sun
Trad 32m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b The NOvember of Life
Trad 35m
It-Tirxija Continuation Wall
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Continuation Wall
1 E1 5a 30m
2 E1 5b 26m
3 E1 5b 26m

P1 - Ascend through the weakness in the overhangs. Climb the slab above aiming for its top left side.

P2 - Up the centre of the steeper slab above. Continue up with difficulty to a narrow ledge (a hanging plaque commemorates the 1st and 2nd ascents). Sign the guest book!

P3 - Continue up the exposed slab with good moves and exposure to the top.

FA: Corporal Deacon R.M., 1953

NA: C.N. Watson & J.D. Graham, 1967

Trad 82m, 3
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Marianne's Faithful Cigarette
1 E1 5a 50m
2 E2 5b 50m
3 S 4a 15m
Trad 120m, 3
It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Wish You Were Here?
1 5a
2 E3 5b
3 4a

7m right of Crossly Notes is a line up the vague white groove left of a steep red central pillar capped by a prow. Start 30m along the shelf just up and left of a vegetated ledge. Surprising holds.

20m 5a. Go diagonally left up the slabs to below the white groove. Awkward moves up the groove. Exit right across ledges to a 2 piton and nut belay.

40 5b. Traverse to the left end of the ledges. Bold moves lead up and left on black rock to a hole, 2 threads. Up and left again across a black wall, piton. After 3m move to regain the groove and improving holds (and gear), to under a leftward leaning overlap. After 3m traverse diagonally left to finish up a stragely featured wall right of a vegetated corner. Belay from cracks below easy slabs in the left side of the pillar above a prow.

20m 4a. Easy slabs trending as far right as you can to thread belays at a ledge. Magnificent!

Trad 80m, 3
Garden of Eden Għar Il-Barbaġann
6a+ Hug the Ufa
Sport 15m, 8
Garden of Eden Fearless Cave
6a+ Quicksands

Set: Nicola Gatti, Feb 2024

Sport 18m, 8
Garden of Eden Fearless Wall
6a+ Rumble in the Jungle
Sport
Wied Babu Diamond Buttress
6a+ Kleen Kutter
Sport 22m
6a+ Mononerone
Sport 22m
6a+ Italian Bolt Route
Sport 22m
6a+ Bentornati a Malta
Sport 20m
Wied Babu Il-Blata ta' Għanċula
V1 Blackhead
Boulder 6m
Wied Babu The Flying Arête
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Nimrod

FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966

Trad 24m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Babu Invasion

FA: Andrew Warrington, 2003

Trad 25m
6a+ Piccoli

FA: Royal Marine Commandos, 1966

Sport 25m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Ariel / Vulcan

Brilliant lay-backing up the right side of the perched flake, starting at a shallow gully right of the dry stone wall, finishing up the thin diagonal crack.

FA: Simon Alden

Trad 25m
6a+ Exposure

FA: Italian Military Alpine School, 1995

Sport 25m
Wied Babu West Side Story
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Caravaggio
Trad 23m
6a+ V for Vendetta
Sport 20m
Wied Babu Smoothies Cave
6a+ Toledan Acid Mango
Sport 18m
Blue Grotto Promontory Red Wall
6a+ Fat boys
Sport 35m
Blue Grotto Promontory Blue Wall
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Hello Boys

From the ledge diagonally left up the darkly coloured wall to a crack, (where you'll find an old piton). Up to a sloping ledge then the wall above. Move left to a crack in the rib. Up this until 5m below the top you can follow the diagonal crack heading right to finish.

FA: Kevin Glass, 1983

Trad 35m
Ħamrija Tower Cobra Cave
6a+ Offering to the gods

FA: Miriam Gauci, 9 Jun 2014

Sport
6a+ Campanilla está coja

FA: Manuel Ruiz, 23 Jun 2014

Sport
Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Micro-Gem

Climb the steep flake crack on the right side of the cave past an old piton trending left. Finish up the excellent crack and wall above.

Trad 12m
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Zonker

Climb awkwardly out of the back of the recess below Snowman, then finish up the wall trending right

Trad 25m
Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave
6a+ Forgotten name
Sport 18m
Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Last on the Bus
Trad 30m
6a+ TBC2
Sport
Ghar Lapsi Corona Wall
6a+ Moderna
Sport 18m, 8
Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave
6a/a+ Shiva
Sport
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Bandits, 11 O'Clock
Trad 16m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b ME 262
Trad 16m
Xaqqa
{UK} E1 UKT:5b The Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner

Start right of centre of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Go directly up the slab. Cross a horizontal break, then finish up the stained slab passing the overhangs on your right.

Trad 22m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b The Problem

Takes the centre of the slab below the gap in the skyline overhangs. Bold finish.

Trad 21m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b No Bottle for Timmy

Step off a pointed brown flake and gain horizontal cracks. Trend past some rugosities. Go up to another horizontal break. Finish as for Island Games

Trad 22m
6a+ Opus Dei
1 6a+ 30m
2 5c 20m
3 5c 30m

Abseil in. 1st stance approx 12m above sea level P1 - Wall. Technical & sustained P2 - Slab. Good pockets. Poor feet. P3 - The mantel

Set: Hendrik-jan Klijn, Mar 2022

FA: Hendrik-jan Klijn & Aaron Briffa, 3 Apr 2022

Sport 80m, 3, 32
6a+ Split Personality
1 6a+ 30m
2 5c 20m
3 5a+ 30m

Abseil in. 1st stance approx 12m above sea level. P1 - Splits halfway up and convenes at stance anchor. Same grade left or right. P2 - Slab. Footwork. P3 - Layback at the crack. Small face. Easy slope to top.

Set: Hendrik-jan Klijn, May 2022

FA: Hendrik-jan Klijn & Johann Briffa, May 2022

Sport 80m, 3
6a/a+ Salamanca by Night
1 4c
2 5b
3 6a/a+
4 4c
Sport 85m, 4
Wied Qirda Broken Buttress
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Wild Boys
Trad 18m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Pastizzi Connection
Trad 22m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Crackers
Trad 22m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Cracking up

Re-evaluated today with Andy Warrington for sure an E2

Trad 22m
Wied Qirda Sphinx Buttress
6a+ Curse of the Mummy
Sport 18m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Black Spasm
Trad 18m
Wied Qirda Grey Slabs Area
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Shake a Leg

Follow the corner moving left across a slab below a bush to gain a ramp. The bulge above to gain a crack constitutes the crux. Finish by traversing right past a nose to easier ground. If you are not imaginative in placing gear the grade will feel harder.

Trad 22m
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5b Sparky

The grey slabs to the right of CTTC

Trad 30m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Villa Crag
{UK} VS UKT:5b Slanting Buttress Direct

The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier

Trad 12m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Caqlembuta

Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs

Trad 6m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c Black Sweat

The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best

Trad 8m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Practice Point
{UK} V1 Practice Roof One

The short, sharp overhang.

Boulder 4m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Temptation

Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack.

Trad 6m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Engagement

Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall.

Trad 8m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Disengagement

The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse

Trad 8m
Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Dam Crag
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Marmalade

The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish

Trad 14m
Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave
6a+ Eat the Rich
Sport
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Face-off
Trad 12m
6a+ Longstick Goes Boom
Sport 12m
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Bimbo Maniac
Trad 12m
V1 Guillotine
Boulder 5m
Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Celebration Area
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Hasty Exit

A small brown overhang left of the alcove direct

Trad 12m
Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Stunts to Cuff
Trad 14m
Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Hangover Area
{UK} E3 UKT:5b Turning Point

The left arete of the alcove, starting at a stalactite. Climb left of the thick black streak

Trad 9m
Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave
6a+ Honey I'm Home
Sport 19m, 5
6a+ Home Alone
Sport 18m, 7
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Honeycomb Wall
Trad 19m
{UK} E2 UKT:5b Monkey Business
Trad 25m
6a+ Bonnie & Snowy
Sport 20m, 7
Victoria Lines The Wave
6a+ Open Your Arse
Sport 10m
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Honey Buttress
6a+ Earth, Wind and Honey
Sport 20m
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Cat's Arches
6a+ She Can Do It
Sport
6a+ It Ain't 6a
Sport 12m
6a+ Damocles's Scimitar
Sport 12m
6a+ It's Raining Bolts

Starts at the anchor of Damocles's scimitar.

Sport 10m
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Oil Drum Cave
6a+ Scarborough Fair
Sport
6a+ Happy in Sardinia
Sport
6a+ Painted Black
Sport
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) Chapel Buttress
6a+ Expiry Date
Sport 14m, 7
6a+ Fluttering Arete
Sport 15m
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) White Walls
6a+ Woydyla

Low first bolt right of a black streak.

Sport
{UK} E1 UKT:5b Toledo's Triumph

Start to the right of "Nina Technology" under the big hole and relatively straight up.

Trad 15m
6a+ Reach for the Peach
Sport
Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley) The Eye in the Sky
6a+ I Want to Break Free
Sport 15m
Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - SE facing Wall
6a+ Stavrovski
Sport 19m, 11
Irdum Irxaw (Mistra) Gully - NW facing Wall
6a+ Beti Aurrera
Sport 16m
Radar Point West Wall
6a+ Sunset Express
Sport 15m
6a+ Tricksta (escape to arete)
Sport 15m
Radar Point The Corner
6a+ Piola´s Pockets
Sport 12m
6a+ Croz
Sport 15m, 6
6a+ Walker
Sport 20m
Radar Point Bellorama
6a+ Frosta Fuerte
Sport 17m, 7
Radar Point Bellavista
6a+ Wallrats
Sport 22m
Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave)
6a+ Autoenough
Sport 8m

Showing all 100 routes.

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