Node |
---|
La Boca
The side canyon right of the main canyon when looking at it from the village. A beautiful and quiet place with climbing on the obvious Main Wall but also on multiple smaller sectors. |
La Boquita
This is the first wall you come to La Boca on the left. You cannot miss the huge tufa at the left end. Together with the La Escuelita, which is right across from it it has mostly shorter routes on grey rock just off the path. This cliff sees earlier and longer sun than the Main Wall. It is the only beginner area in El Salto. Most of the routes are very well protected. |
La Boquita |
5.9
★★ La Roca Une
Empieza a la izquierda de una estalactita. Starts left of the big tufa. |
5.9
★★ Pitufina
Empieza a la derecha de una estalactita. Starts right of big tufa. |
5.7
★ Victoria
Una ruta facil; Fun moves to a hidden hold up high. |
5.8
★★ Suzy Sheep
Comparte reunion con 'George'. Shares anchor with 'George'. |
5.9
★★ George
Comparte reunion con Suzy Sheep. Shares anchor with Suzy Sheep. |
5.8
★ Peppa Pig
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.9
★★ Vacarita
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.10b
★★ Jana & the City
Start between the trees. |
5.10a
★★ Gotita
Hay un techo a la mitad de la ruta. Goes up the slab and over a small roof to the anchor. |
5.10+
★★ Papa Pitufo
12 plaquetas + reunión con cadenas y maillones grandes (08/22). La línea izquierda de las 3 rutas largas que van por a las reuniones en piedra amarillosa y grisacea. ---ENG--- 12 bolts + anchors with chains and big maillons (08/22). The leftmost line of the 3 longer routes going up to the yellowish and grey top. |
5.10c
★★ Alas de Mariposa
Una ruta muy divertida. El crux está a la mitad de la ruta. Passes just right of the big grey tufa and finishes on sharp grey rock. 2 bolt anchor without chains but you may lower from the anchor to the right or left. |
5.10c
★★ Paw Patrol
Hay varios techos. Ruta bien divertida. El crux está al final de la ruta. |
5.10b
★★ NoName9
Empieza entre dos árboles start between 2 trees |
La Escuelita
The west facing cliff down right in the wash when you enter La Boca. |
La Escuelita |
5.7
★ Backyard
Up a dirty corner in the shape. |
5.7
★★ Clubhouse
Fun easg climbing though a roof. |
5.10
★★ Escaleras Al Cielo
Super fun overhanging climbing Probably the best route on the wall. |
5.10b
★★ 2x1
Hard moves through a low roof. |
5.8
★★ Tornaboda
Climb a crack system to the right of a tree half way up. |
5.10
★ 7 Lagartitas
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.8
★★ Guerreros with Sombreros
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.8
★ Muchos Ninos !
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.8
★ Tia Chela
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.8
★ Little Pony
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
Anchors
No bolts only anchors. It might be for trad. |
Main Wall
This is why you come to the Boca! A tall wall with yellowish rock, slightly overhanging with great lines. Many routes have (hard) extensions but you also find warm-ups left (on grey rock) and right. |
Main Wall |
5.13
★★ Slabbergast
Trends left along the obvious crack to the anchor next to the tree. |
5.10d
★★ Tijeritas
Start on the left edge of the low ledge.Climbs up into a small roof and anchors just above.Great transition move up high. |
5.10c
★★ Feral Coneja
Very cool climbing through a small roof up high. |
5.11b
★★ Feral Coneja Extension
Fun slopers! |
5.10c
★★ Marisa
15 bolts + 2 bolts con cadenas. La ruta izquierda de tres que están muy cercanas en la pared grisacea. 15 bolts + 2 bolts with chains. Leftmost route of three which are really close on grayish wall. |
5.10d
★★ Shaken, Not Stired
A bit of a squeeze, but more space higher above. |
5.10d
★★ Lado a Lado
Anchor is on the small blank face high up.Angles right throught some nive uverhangs. |
5.10d
★★ Short Island Ice Tea
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.10d
★★ Piña-Colada
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.11c
★★ Sex on the beach
Trends right to an anchor in the yellowish rock.Technical climbing through a technical roof. |
5.10a
★★ Mojito
14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22) A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles. Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt. |
5.10a
★★ Cuba Libre
Permadraws at anchor (nov'22). Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn. |
5.13d
Alta Tension
Start on stainless steel hangers of 'War One' to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt.Start on stainless hangers of tres amigos to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt. Follow the obvious overhung arete,tufas ,laybacks and upper headwall face. |
5.12c
★★ Tres Amigos
New stainless fixe hangers following a right facing,right arching dihedral. A little runout. An alternative start is from Fantastic Voyage and tread left to Tre Amigos. |
5.13d
Mi Compadre el Papá Luchón
Extension of tres amigos. Starts in Alta Tensión. |
5.12b
★★★ Fantastic Voyage
Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.Climb a blocky start to a no hands ledge.Pump through the overhung arete inside the dahiedrel and tread right through tufas and back left on crimps and jugs to the anchors. |
5.13c
★ Fantastic Voyage Extension
Climb fantastic voyage to the anchors and continue up for another 10m of value technical overhung face on crimps and slopers. |
5.12d
★★ Ego Lounge
Climb the grey slap to bouldery cruxes. |
5.13a
★★★ Lounge Puppy
Start on easy grey stone to the fourth bolt and the business stays with you until the very last move.Stellar . |
Lounge Puppy Extension
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.12b
★★★ Honey Bear
Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015. |
5.13d
★★★ Honey Bear Extension
Honey Bear's extension. Climb past the anchors of honey bear up for 20 m past two roof system and technical fun, chains just after the second roof (~32m of climbing in total).Watch your fingers in roof transition up high, a small family of bats are rumored to be living there. Climb during cold spells to avoid a little snap of the fingers and better friction on the sloper crux. |
5.12c
★★★ Hijo de perra
Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015. |
5.14a/b
★★★ Hijo de papi
Climb "Hijo de puta" and "Honey Bear Extension". |
5.13c
★★★ Abducción Anunnaki
Climb the yellow streak all the way up to the roof and continue for a couple more moves to get the chains. |
5.14a
★★★ Alien Bitch
Abducción Anunnaki + Honey Bear Extension |
5.14c
★★★ La Coyo y El Mictlan
Starts on Abducción Anunaki or Ayotzinapa, travers thru the fist roof to climb on honey bear extension, pass the second roof and climb all the way up to the last anchors in the wall (you'll have yo climb thru the anchors of Ayotnizapa, Abduccion Anunaki, Honey bear ext and continue to the 4th anchors in the wall). ~43m of climbing in total. |
5.13b
★★★ Ayotzinapa 43
Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof. |
Tlatelolco 68
Starts on "Ayotzinapa" but continues straight up in the first roof just before the first anchors. Goes all the way up to the chains of "Coyolxauhqui & Mictlantecuhtli" |
5.13d
★★★ Fuerza Civil
Starts just right of Ayotzinapa 43 and passes right of the small roof to a higher anchor. |
5.14-
★★★ Fuerza Sin Bicep
Starts at Fuerza Civil. Just after the last crux traverse all the way to the left. Climb thou the roof of "Tlatelolco 68" and "Honey Bitch". keep traversing trou the obvious ledge that starts when the roof ends. When the ledge ends and a tufa starts keep climbing to the last anchors in the wall. It ends at the anchors of "Mi Compadre El Papá Luchón" (extensión of "3 Amigos"). |
5.12c
★★ Ménage à trois
Es una ruta corta y dura de acomodar el cuerpo para subir por un diedro que está inclinado un poco a la derecha. Climb the overhanging leaning arete right of Fuerza Civil. Short but steep with a nice step to reach the anchor. |
5.12c
Que hay de mi?
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.12d
Que hay de mi arte!!
Start on "Que hay de mi?" and before the chains continue on to el "Arte de Volar". |
5.12c
★★★ Arte de Volar
The line passing over the big hole higher up. Has 2 perma draws before the anchor. |
5.14
El Arte de Volar Extension
Open Project; Small. Hard. Exposed. Flight time required. |
5.13b
★★★ Porn Star Obsessions
Shares the first few bolts with Trucutrulove, then continues on straight up. Original route was 5.12d, then a rest hold broke turning it into a 5.13a. |
5.12a
★★ Trucutrú Love
Shares start with "Porn Star Obsession" but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a loose block was trundled making it much harder at the crux. |
5.12a
★★ Tweaker
Trends right for the first 6 bolts or so to the bush and then goes up straight. Super cool squeezed line between the 11's. Yes the final hold was comfortized for comfort and positivity and to avoid another 5.13. An extension to this would yeild a magnificient 13-/+ of 40+ meters. |
5.11d
★★★ El Tecolotito
Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall. Rebolted with glue ins November 2015. Record de tiempo protegiendo cada una de las bandas: 2:00 David Ramiro Zúñiga |
5.12c
★★★ El Tecolotito Extension
Trends out right from the first anchor for 5 more bolts. Follow the permadraws through really cool climbing, dynamic and layback moves to a sweet anchor clip stance. |
5.11a/b
★★ Justified
Starts on the right side of the big boulder (4 bolts, 3 behind the block), then sketchy move to get to the wall. If you go straight the grade is 5.11b+, but if at the crux you go left then it is a 5.11a. |
5.12a
★★ The Sound of the First Season
Scramble up on the sloping ledge right of the detached block (you might want to clip the first bolt of Mouchie Mouchie) and take the left bolt line up the headwall. |
5.13b
★★★ The Sound of the Second Season
6 bolts more past 'The Sound of The Sound of the First Season'. Runout, steep, sustained all the way to the last bite. Can lower with an 80m or use First Season anchors as sub. |
5.13c
Italian Variation
Climb The Sound of the First Season, climb past the bulge and follow the 4 bolts right at the ledge then back up left to the anchors of The Sound of the Second Season. |
5.12b
★★ Mouchie Mouchie
Scramble up on the sloping ledge (1 bolt) and tackle the vertical wall. Trends slightly right to an anchor left of a thin tufa. |
Right of Mouchie Mouchie
These are the routes right of Mouchie Mouchie. Access them by taking the small paths in between the bushes. Multipitch routes also start in this section. |
5.10d
★★ Tranceiopathic
Dirty rock down low leads to glassy climbing up high on great jugs. |
5.11a
★★ Easy Rider
Climb the slab to a bulge and on to a nice finish. |
5.11a
★ Michael Jackson Tufa
After passing the nice palm tree, the route trends right. Can be used to access La Derma de Oro's 2nd pitch. |
5.13a
La Derma de Oro
This is a 4 pitch route going up the wall starting with a 5.11b/c that finishes right above the nice palm tree, anchor just right of Michael Jackson Tufa which is an alternative first pitch. There is a fixed rope going left on the ledge at the top of pitch 2 and another shorter fixed rope left of the anchor on top of pitch 3. |
5.10b
La Derma de Oro - Deviation (name unknown)
This pitch can be used to avoid the crimpy 13a second pitch of Tears of Gold. Traverse right to the dihedral (a little dirty). Cruxy exposed move for the grade. Climb the dihedral and traverse back to the same anchors as Tears of Gold P3 |
5.13a
Gold Connection
This is a variant starting at the anchor for the 3rd pitch of La Derma de Oro and going up right of it through yellow rock. |
5.11b
★★ Willson Direct
This is the alternative to reach the "3rd pitch routes" and finishes at the right anchor (top of pitch 2). Starts with a short slab, continues on an arete, then traverses right. |
Open Project 1
This "3rd pitch" starts on the right anchor and goes up straight to an anchor just above the dark black corner. |
5.12a
★★★ Tufa Lunes
This is the "3rd pitch" going up straight to the well visible anchor on black rock. |
5.11d
★★ Boca Burger
This is the "3rd pitch" leaveing the anchor to the right and up through tufas to the lower anchor below the obvious bush. |
5.9
Half Warp
Es la grieta que está en el diedro de la pared, a la izquierda de la arista gris. |
5.11c
★★ Aero Russia
Es la arista gris que está a la derecha del diedro donde está la grieta. Unfortunately, it's not very popular and the first half is covered with vegetation. |
Catlin's Wall
Some routes that stay in the shade for most of the day (sun only late afternoon) on grey rock. A great warm-up 5.10c with nice tufas. Grades for extensions unclear. |
Catlin's Wall |
5.12d
Nalgas Perfectas (left)
Starts left of the tree and leads through the roof to a high anchor. Grade not confirmed, please add your contribution. |
5.10c
★★★ Nalgas Perfectas
This is the obvious line going up along the grey tufas. |
Nalgas Perfectas Extension
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.11a
★★ Menos vulgar
A pleasant and short road between Nalgas Perfectas and Super Alien. Finished in the slab with 2 spits. |
5.12c
★ Super Alien
Easier climbing to a distinct crux in the middle of the route. |
Super Alien Extension
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.10c
★★ Where's Waldo
Short route with an anchor on the left. |
Santo Bohorquez Wall
This wall offers climbing on tufas and crimps and stays in teh sahde most of the day. The sun only arrives very late in the afternoon. The rock quality at the bottom is not the best but some of the routes are still good. Partially overgrown by vines. |
Santo Bohorquez Wall |
5.11a
Traffic Warrant
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.9
★★ Shark Attack
Starts right of the tree with a "porous" tufa and finishes in an open dihedral. |
5.10
★★ RockSaw Massacre
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |
5.10d
★★ Easyrider
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful! |