Routes in Mexico for selected grade

12 bolts + 2 reunión con permanentes (08/22)

"Veinte años después" es un diedro. Es buena ruta para principiantes.

Has a metal plate with the name on it. Tiene placa de metal con el nombre.

really fun moves, lots of footholds. movimientos divertidos, muchas pisaderas.

Es la primera ruta de derecha a izquierda, hay algunas varillas oxidadas en el inicio de la ruta.

Ruta establecida en trad, la primera sección por Adrian Elizondo El Pirulo y la extensión sección por Carlos Flores El Russo tmbn en Trad. Paco Medina equipó la ruta de manera deportiva.

Buldercito en el principio.

Via super clasica para principiantes. Recomendado limpiar en rappel. Aunque recién le cambiaron mallones y ya tiene cadena ecualizada

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8coFezk1OE

Second route going up the staircase.

Jug haul on slab. Ideal route to practice your multipitch technique. Runs up just to the left of "Evil Shenanigans".

Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8.

(Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find).

Hebrada - Runout P1: 9 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 9 bolts R.

Cuidado, hay roca suelta al final del tercer largo. La última reunión está ubicada dentro del canal de 4ta clase.

Watch for loose rock from last bolt to summit. Last anchorblocated in the 4th class canal.

La bajada - Descent

El segundo largo tiene una reunión intermedia (maillones) para cordadas con cuerda de 60m.

Second pitch has an intermediate anchor (mailons) for parties using 60m ropes.

Si tu cuerda es de 70m, usar la reunion que tiene un aro y cadena conectando los dos anclajes.

If your rope is 70m,use the anchors which has a ring and chain joining both anchors.

A cool start up a massive stalagmite leads to large stalagtites to the top.

Juggy climbing through stalagtites leads to the top.

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

1. 4 bolts + anchor

2. 4 bolts + anchor

3. 10 bolts + anchor

4. 4 bolts + anchor (long or alpine draws recommended)

5. 2 bolts + anchor (~20m walk / scramble on the ledge to the base of P6)

6. 15 bolts + anchor (some bolts can be skipped since a lot of them are very close together)

7. 1 bolt + anchor

P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left.

P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least).

Lovely route. Goes up for 5 bolts, then angles leftward.

La via más clásica de pericos favorita de principiantes e invitados.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVGiDV2fo70

Buena via para calentar! Recomendado 1 o 2 cintas largas

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e_PpoMmLnA

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

Ruta que comienza justo a la derecha del bloque y el árbol. Primera placa elevada.

P1: 5.8, 35 mts, 8+R. P2: 5.9, 25 mts, 4+R. P3: 5.10, 30 mts, 8+R.

no olvides tus nudos en las puntas

Ruta establecida en trad por Carlos Flores El Russo. Necesita mantenimiento en la reunión y preferentemente elevar la reunión unos metros para evitar la fricción

First climb to the RHS.

Has name plate.

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

Ultima via hacia la Izq. Armada por Marcelo Gonzalez. cuidado con bloques sueltos a la izquierda de esta via.

Ruta al lado izquierdo de Parasiempre.

Comparte reunion con Suzy Sheep.

Shares anchor with Suzy Sheep.

Starts just ro the right of Blind Faith. Climb the crack up to the small right-facing corner to a crack finish.

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This route is the first set of bolts up the ramp.

La primera placa necesita una banda larga

Long hand crack trad route retro-bolted. A classic. Very long dihedral. Stemm climbing all the way. Anchor high up left on the ledge.

Paso técnico casi al final.

Starts just right of "El Tótem". To avoid a runout at the end, take a sling with you and protect around a big stalactite.

Starts up a triangular low slab just right of the dihedral to a high-ish first bolt.

Shares the last couple bolts and anchor with "Left-over Man"

A fun steep start leads to juggy stalagtites to the top. First hanger missing.

Empieza a la derecha de una estalactita. Starts right of big tufa.

Es una grieta única que te da la sensación de que eres un escalador super pro!

Ruta corta pero con buenos movimientos, la repisa al final esta muy cómoda.

Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral.

Starts up thin slab above the large flake leaning against the wall.

Comienzas escalando una placa a favor arriba de uma laja grande que esta recargada en la pared.

Starts up a dihedral, then pulls over a bulge to a short slab.

Shares last two bolts and anchor with "El Volvo Scorcho".

La entrada esta buena y algo pulida.

Esta ruta es la mas fácil de la pared, es la primer ruta después de ínguesu.

Another retro-bolted trad route.

Right of YS.

Right of nice long tufa. Sahres 1st bolt with "Cri Cri". Slabby Start to nice climbing along the tufa. The upper section is grey rock with runnels and huge sand watches.

Grey slab and crack to the roof.

First bolted climb on the right wall when walking into the area. Slabby, with a giant cube sticking out just below the chain.

Excelente ruta que fluye y divierte.

First route after the ravine.

Right of LL.

primer ruta de la derecha, con una entrada v1 y el resto de la ruta es un paseo.

Right of TTF.

Start on 'La del Chaka' and traverses left through dirty rock to the anchors of Eutanacia.

Subir por filo usando grieta. Ruta a la izquierda de diedro en V.

Esta ruta es la primera de la pared a la mera izquierda, por donde llegas caminando.

This is a short route on the wall opposite to “The Wave”. First bolt is high up. Has mussy hooks at the anchor.

Starts with a grey slab and finishes with a vertical section.

1st pitch has 7 bolts, 2nd pitch has 5 bolts.

8 + Reunión con maillones (09/22)

La ruta sube por un cañonsito, hay otra ruta muy parecida mas a la derecha. Cuidado con piedra suelta, la cual tiene una X blanca marcada. Watch out for loose rock, it has a white X marked on it

Shares start with "Las Chimuelas" and "Warifikis", but goes over the roof at an easier part than Warifikis.

Climb up and over the roof. Then up slab above.

Dos plaquetas y reunion.

Los primeros dos Bolts en la chimenea, después mejor en el filo.