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Episkopi (Lemessos) Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Josephine Gregor Wo

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Table of contents

1. Episkopi (Lemessos)

Summary:
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Seasonality

15 routes in Area

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.677809, 32.875363

summary

Newly developed limestone crag located close to the large village of Episkopi, about 10km west of Limassol. The routes are around 10-14m in length, mostly with difficult starts and low-down cruxes.

description

Faces North Mostly doesn't get the sun except very early in the morning/late in the evening. This makes it a good summer option.

approach

From the Limassol-Pafos highway take the number 35 turnoff and head south towards the center of Episkopi village. After around 1km pass the Episkopiana hotel on the right and take the turning on the right immediately after the hotel. Continue past the school and follow the small road as it winds down into the small valley. The crags can be seen on the left after around 3km. Either park just off the road directly facing the crag and follow the route to the crag shown in blue on the picture, or continue for 100m and park close to the junction with the dirt track. In the latter case follow the (reasonably) obvious hunter's track to the base of the crag. Whichever route you take, keep a bit of an eye out for snakes just in case!

ethic

The local online source is: https://www.cyprusrocks.eu. Please consider donating to their bolting fund.

inherited from Cyprus
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spaghetti Western

The lone route up the middle of the small rock to the left.

6a Sport 12m
2 Bite the bullet

First route on the left of the main wall. Tricky move off ground, pull over the bulge, then easier ground to the top.

7b Sport 12m
3 Hysteria

Big step up to start. Difficult crux through the overhang, then vertical ground to the top.

7a+ Sport 14m
4 Project

Campus initial moves. Follow thin crack through the overhang. Vertical to top.

SportProject 14m
5 Sidewinder

Make big pullover starting lip, difficult moves up the groove, then vertical ground to the top.

7a Sport 14m
6 Cheese Grater

About 10m to the right of the previous route (mind the brambles!). Tricky moves on sharp edges until the angle eases.

6b Sport 14m
7 Speechless

Just to the left of the shallow chimney, a characteristic dihedral. You need to make bridging moves up the groove, a really big split in the middle, then follow the vertical wall to the top.

6b Sport 14m
8 Kokos Delight

The nice route up just right of the shallow chimney. Follow crack until it peters out, pulls over the small bulge, then easier ground to the top.

6b Sport 14m
9 Human Bird

Just around the corner from the previous route. Climb vertical wall with a ledge at 3m, more vertical climbing then slabbier ground to the top. 10

6a+ Sport 14m
10 Salut Malaka

Up light-colored vertical rock over the small bulge, then easier ground to the top.

6a Sport 13m
11 Fly Baby Fly

#SD Topo.

6C Boulder
12 Bull

#SD Topo.

6B Boulder
13 Roof on the Hill

Start with big hole. Topo.

6A+ Boulder
14 Dedoon Crack

#SD Left crack only. Topo.

6A+ Boulder
15 Baboon Crack

#SD Vertical crack only. Topo.

6A Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
6a Salut Malaka Sport 13m
Spaghetti Western Sport 12m
6a+ Human Bird Sport 14m
6b Cheese Grater Sport 14m
Kokos Delight Sport 14m
Speechless Sport 14m
6A Baboon Crack Boulder
6A+ Dedoon Crack Boulder
Roof on the Hill Boulder
7a Sidewinder Sport 14m
6B Bull Boulder
7a+ Hysteria Sport 14m
6C Fly Baby Fly Boulder
7b Bite the bullet Sport 12m
? Project SportProject 14m
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