Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Nice introduction to the crag. Originally short (thus the name) but now much longer.

A pleasant scramble to the summit, with optional climbing.

On the west face, the route is easily spotted by the giant ramp. The TH guidebook topo seems a touch off on the location of some of the features.

Weave your way up the easiest path of the lower formation to reach a short problem of f4 just below the main ramp, (a bit reachy). After the ramp, head in the same direction into the bushy gully and find your way up the easiest part of the left wall to gain the domes to the summit. There is also a hidden rock bridge on the right.

Alternatively after the ramp, cross the plateau and head left along the wall to find 2 pitches of 5- and 4+ (possibly the big black corner, unchecked).

Descent: from the summit find the abseil back down to the plateau / ramp top, from there reverse route either abseil or scramble. Alternatively descend via Bedouin routes north or south unchecked.

Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack.

leftmost route

rightmost route; tricky start move for small ones

Nice and comfortable route to have your first outdoor climb.

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

• Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
• Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style.

Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: Full rack.

• P1 f-5: Straight up the crack, Reaching a small ledge/cave on the right with a big thread (40m).
• P2 f4: Exit the cave back into the crack where it opens up more, with bridging and standing on what could be brittle spikes and flakes. Belay from a big flat ledge with a roof on the right just before the crack opens and flattens out
• P3 f3: Climb / traverse right to reach a bigger plateau (limited useful protection).
• P4 f3: Optional, scramble to the summit. If not head up right to the ridge line.

Descent.

Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling.

Right finish

7 slings

Not in the guide book. Round the corner from barefoot groove. About UK grade severe.

4 slings

Starts at routes "Batman" and "Rusting". Climbs the slab towards the right-hand end of the crag. A number of variations are possible.

Located in the small Slab on the left

Trad line unsure of where it is.