Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

Trad line in the crack next to T100.

A short offwidth crack requiring some size 5 and 6 BD friends/cams

Mid to large size cams/friends

rap descent

Up the cack trending L and then R again. Past the questionable flake to ledge. @2, 10, 15m. Up and L. The corner to the summit

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Start 2m left of Ladder. Pitch 1: Climb the crack in the steep wall to a ledge and belay (8m). Pitch 2: Climb the slab on the Right up to a ledge Pitch 3: Climb the crack on the left up to the top. walk off from the top from the North side

Start 2m right of Ladder on the rightward rising crack to the ledge. The second 2 pitches are as for Ladder.

5 m right of Ladder on the East Side. Pitch1: The huge diagonal crack going right. Belay on the stance under pitch 2. (30m) VS 4b Pitch 2: Climb the small overhang using broken rocks (secure with a BD3 Camelot) into a small stance and then go left on the vertical wall (secure the exit from the stance with a nut). (10m) HVS 5a

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade)

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

Done only on top rope in the past

"It depends" - if you start from right is 5b if you start from left is 5c. A couple of steep pulls gain easy ground.

Asidos's, chemically bolted

beginning of multi-pitch

Climb the crack in between Crack for Cheese and Middle Finger.

This is the first bolted route in Nusret.