Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Singlepitch.

Ivictus (Alema?n-Coll-Sort,) Catalan group climbers, see Desnivel.com

A delicate start leads to fun laybacking up the obvious slots.

5b 6b 5c

6a 5a 4b 6b 6a+

Superb! Very famous route inspired by american crack climbs (Indian Creek or Red Rocks). However it is also possible to face climb and stem using the patina. Large cams desirable (#4 and 5#) to protect one or two locations. North facing but did get the sun around midday in summer. Descent: Repel via route.

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor".

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

The first pitch is classic face and crack climbing with the second pitch being chimney and off width. Pitch 1: Start on Knife and break left after the 2nd bolt onto the small ledge. Clip a bolt to protect the first crux and then move to the duo cracks. After the cracks clip the bolt and do a few harder moves. Keep it moving through the 3 m run-out to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.10a) Pitch 2: Move up the lie-back crack into the off-width. Chimney to ledge and finish on the 3rd pitch of Knife. (5.9)

On Abu Judaidah’s North Gendarme. Mentioned in this AAC article.

1. no bolts. beautiful layback with nice jugs.

2. one bolt under the overhang bit. Face climb on slight overhang to the right. Has one carrot bolt

3. 2 bolts right at the top. Start from the left of the anchor up the crack. Practice your gear placement (set of cams, blue to yellow). Sit on the roof with your climbing buddy.

on Abu Aina Towers finished with lion heart

p1: 24 p2: 24

Multipitch trad. Double set of friends from 0.3 to 5. Two bolt anchor stop P1 and ring chains on P2. Lower-off in two rappels.

south face of Jebel Suweibit east of the haj

You need a full rack and especially size 5 on the 3rd pitch.

Bolted stations location : (30.21546, 35.41651)

a system of chimneys, Descent is by rappelling and downclimbing into the canyon.

NE diedre of 1232 dome Al Maghrar. Corner crack climbing for 4 pitches then scrambling to the summit.

1. There is a piton near the top but it is off route?

2. run out for the last few moves, to a bolt and piton belay

3. more corner

4. crux pitch, to a single bolt on a ledge, look for rap belay on the right side of the ledge

5. A short pitch to the blocks

6. Weave up the featured face, to a thread

7. weave up the featured face, to a thread.

scramble to the summit.

Descent

abseil via route. P7->P6->P5->right side of ledge at top of P4->P2->Ground. Lower crack liable to eat ropes.

Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno"

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

Mixed Trad

Refer to:

http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-trente-six-soleils-95890877.html

Gear:

8 Quickdraws, one set of Cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m Ropes.

Descend:

3 abseils same route, (5th to 4th) - (4th to 1st) - (1st to the Ground).

Overall: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy-to-place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well-protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

Pitch 1 (5b):

- 3 Bolts - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchor (Bolted with maillon).

Pitch 2 (6a+):

- 5 Bolts - Climb above the anchor on a vertical wall, well-protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (Two Bolts).

Pitch 3 (6a):

- 4 Bolts - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

Pitch 4 (6b):

- 3 Bolts - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

Pitch 5 (6a+/b):

- 3 Bolts - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traverse left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

Abseils

1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

Thanks To for the Details {Emanuele Gallone}

A mega classic, the first 3 pitches are pure quality with interesting sustained climbing. Pitch 4 can be either direct (6b), or down then up the chimney (5). Needs large cams (camalot 5 or 6) for the upper offwidth pitches, double if you want to feel secure. Bolted Anchors. Upper pitches get sun earlier than lower.

1. 5c layback getting steeper, green cams for the top.

2. 6a twin cracks

3. 5c layback

4. 6b direct using peg or 5 going down into then up the chimney (loose blocks on top)

5. 5c

6. 4a

Descent: Rap via the route.

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

A stunning slab climbing . just a tree on the way to have lunch .

Pitch one:5.9 (sport), pitch two:5.10b (Trad)

350m in Total

It is possible to climb the first 5 pitches (100m) of 'Coup Par Coup' as an alternative to the final section of the approach, and then start 'The Pillar of Wisdom'

Topos: Howard guidebook #65. & Verticalpirate.

Article.

Bring along a set of BD friends/cams up to #2 and double on smaller cams. Add some small nuts for good measure.

A good adventure; a striking N facing blunt arête goes in four 40m pitches with trad pro and on good rock to the summit.

Approach via the little valley where Little Petra is situated, their are Bedouin encampments and sheep herders everywhere and most will know the mountain by its name Jebel Alzrb.

Start a short ways from the stream bed up some easy slabs. The 2nd f6b pitch can be easily aided c0 to make it 5a.

Descent Initially easy to the S, down the far side to rappel anchors.

6b or 5c A1.

Descent: Rappel "Boules Brunes".

A set of friends/cams (double of .3, .75, .1 and .2) and a #5 to make the roof less spicy

#32. Crazy exit.

Scramble up the Siq (canoyn), till you reach the very obvoice open-book-shaped rock formation.

Climb up right the crack in the middle.

#33

Double rack of friends to #5 and some nuts.

#34

#35

Single pitch corner. Probably harder than the given grade. Anchor on knots in the crack, to be verified.

#36

1. One piton. Trad. Slightly awkward dihedral requiring fancy moves. Start next to the bush. Grab your small and med size cams

2. 9 FB. Could be done trad. Great little pitch. Mid sized cams, nuts, and balancy moves. Two small rooflets, easy first, spicy 2nd

Right hand variation.

Overhang west face of the deadsea skull rock, climb up and left avoiding the pigeons nest on the right side

Easy for this climb to be mixed into "Shuu Hath".