Routes in Middle East for selected grade

A steepish route with multiple cruxes separated with good rests.

The first bolt is a bit high but there is a good clipping hold.

6c vertical until the first anchor

You see the route name on the wall. About 17 routes left of Iranian Swiss.

An awkward start (mind the wobbling jug!) leads to a rightwards rising line, finishing at a non-descript position. Another set of anchors a few metres higher?

#bolt_type_expansion

Route with the large juggy "pocket" in the middle.

Shares first two bolts with Left Wing

Another hard 6c.

Short, powerful, the route up the steep wall right next to the road (best to time your attempts when there isn't a bus or lorry approaching!).

The longest route on this wall. Varied moves bring you up on large pockets and edges. Move between flakes at the top. Wanders a bit and will test your route finding abilities!

Extension of 'Musicman'.

The bolted route to the left of Richter Scale. Climbs up a face using crimps and big huecos and flakes.

Finishes under the big roof. Has cleaned up significantly over the years but still be weary of a couple of thin looking flakes.

a 60m gets you down just fine

Overhang traverse. Missing anchor. Name from this song.

A deceptively hard face climb. A bouldery start leads to a small ledge where a rest can be had. Continue up the face on small edges and pockets for a few bolt or until you reach another boulder problem. Using very small holds, and even smaller feet, climb over the bulge. Easier climbing leads you to the anchors. The opening boulder problem will feel harder for short people

Akdeniz is a wonderful 20 meter long route that starts next to the approach trail. Climb past two bolts on moderate terrain before getting onto the vertical face. Excellent features that all slope left will lead you to a technical face of small holds and a steep pumpy finish at the anchor.

Location Akdeniz is located 3 meters right of the prominent flared chimney/gully on the right side of the sector.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Shares route with Thunderbolt (right finish)

Physical start, very sharp at the top. Some run-out. Pre-clip first and be careful at third clip. Cheating to reach the first hold allowed.

Bouldery overhanging jugs lead to a good rest 3/4 way up. Then steep technical climbing to a crux at the last 10 feet pulling over the roof. Start is behind a grove of trees. Beginning holds are a bit high up, stand on a tree if you must.

2-bolt top anchor with a chain

close to Titanic route and with the same movement

Despite the modest grades this is not exactly a good beginners multi-pitch. With loose rock on virtually every pitch, sound judgement and route-finding skills are a must. The first two pitches are both very loose. The 3rd pitch has the best quality rock on the whole route and is pretty fun. The 4th pitch is short, and chossy but slightly less so than the first two pitches. The last pitch is higher quality, but has some dangerous death blocks that can be avoided if you're careful. Beautiful views the whole way up!

P1 5.8 60 ft: Climb up the corner/slab using side pulls and high steps until you traverse right to the anchors. The crux may be figuring out which holds are good enough to pull on.

P2 5.8 45 ft: Climb up the easy slab. Lots of loose rock here so be careful!

P3 5.10C 80 ft: The rock quality is much better on this pitch! Balance-y moves and technical face climbing lead you to a very comfortable ledge.

P4 5.8 80 ft: Climb up the easier slab to the base of the much steeper final pitch.

P5 5.11b 115 ft: Climb up the steepening face with awesome exposure! Starts off relatively easy and gets harder towards the top. Watch out for some very big loose blocks near the top!

Rap the route with 2 60m or a single 70m rope.

1. 12 FB

2. 9 FB

3. 1 FB

4. 17 FB

Dance Academy is the longest overhang route in this sector. It has relatively good hands at 2/3 beginning of the route, after that, there is an area for a good rest and later going up with a small chimney. At last, face climb to a vertical area to the anchor.

Home made hangers on dark rock.