Ascents in New Zealand as All free with rest as sport by Chris Hailey

Overall about the same as crooked imo... thought reversing the coma crux was going to be far harder than it actually is. should go with some connies next session 🤙

confident this would have gone today if the holds were dry... wet feet and hands at the crux... still did it with a 1 hang... next session I will bring a leaf blower 😂

First proper days back on this line this season and all the moves felt way better than last year. Only fired off one proper attempt at it on Sunday but the knee bar was wet and slipped out, dried off and went to the top... Feels close but you never know 😂

Blew the top section... should be happy with the high point but it was so close!!! 😂 next go?

gave it a few shots after trying coma... still feels like awkward climbing 🤔

First Shot didn't set the mono right so jumped off, second shot holds were spooging!!! had this one wrapped up and still had plenty of beans but slipped off the last hold before the jugs to the top. Do not try to climb this one in the sun!!! after 12:00 it was almost unclimbable. get to the crag at 7-8am to wrap climbing by lunch if you want to have a good time on it.

come on dude!!! Its so close... one more rest day then 2 days to send before I need to go home. Climbed through the bottom crux, one hang then to the top...

Can’t believe I dropped the flash of this one, rain coming in sideways made the sloper wet and slipped off... bummer... next go

REBOLTED!!!! no more rusty bolts, took me the best part of 4 hours and destroyed my feet haha, the route is now equipped with 10/12mm stainless wedge anchors and hangers. End of the day I gave it a quick burn, took it down in 2 segments so tomorrow Ill send it first thing then start bolting other stuff this route is quality!!! the first boulder problem is a bit awkward but after that.... technical fun climbing to the top!!!

Jury is out on this one for quality and difficulty, worked out the beta, holds were soapy mostly due to some dick head clogging them to shit with chalk... brush your holds people!!! Brushed and beta dialled ready to send tomorrow. Felt 26 but could just be them soapy conditions

hmmm not sure if this is a pile or a great route yet... hard boulder sequence at the start or was I worn out from working Glastonbury... will have to hit it fresh next time

Second attempt went up wrong hand to the chicken head and punted off after the crux... poor performance but this has a solid crux in it. The bolt at the crux is terrible placement as that’s where you want to put your foot and when heeling around the arete to make the next draw if you fall you’re upside down taking a head banger so wear a helmet

all individual moves are easy enough but putting it together has been a bit of a challenge. kept pumping out after the crux just before the climbing really eases off haha... one of them days. This one would be a mega classic but the perma wet jug lets it down, this thing f **cked up 2 of my attempts today but that's just how it goes... Draws are still on ready for a few more attempts tomorrow, might take a freaking blow torch to that wet hold though