Routes as sport in Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

A bouldery start and move right past a bolt to a small ledge leads to delicate face climbing.

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted.

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

Climb the groove until you can cross left and establish yourself on the face and arete. Continue up the arete and face above. Be careful clipping the second bolt, the first one is low and there is groundfall potential if clipping high.

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

An unusual looking groove with bolts on the right wall. Scramble to the ledge at the base of the groove then climb up the groove, which is steeper than it looks and at the 4th bolt step onto the wall. Continue up past 5th bolt to tree belay.

For an easier option, climb just left of the last two bolts at about grade 17

The second arête from the Arch. Climb past the first bolt to the ledge on the right then straight up. DBC.

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

The arête and the ‘fang’ at half height. Wet at high tide. DBC belay.

Straight up past four bolts to belay on top of pinnacle.

A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’.

Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M

Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation.

Ram's horns have been added. There is also a chain around the tree.

Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.

To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above.

The slightly over hanging wall with three bolts. There is only one hard move, just above the second bolt. Double bolt belay with rams horns.

Four bolts and tree belay. Follow the two almost horizontal bolts traversing right until reaching the arête and finishing as for ‘The Appendix’ past the third and fourth bolt. Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell and Andrew Batten, 2004

Between two chimneys is a slabby wall. There are a lot of large pohutukawas at the top of this part of the cliff and this route is below the eastern most tree.

Climb easily past the first bolt to the ledge. Move right past the second bolt and up the outside of the chimney, past the third bolt and up into the wide crack.

The bolts then continue up the left face to the new rams horns anchors.

A tricky little number, climb the buttress keeping mainly on the left.

Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

On the large block - juggy and steep.

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Trend left of the bolts now that the bridging option is gone with the jenga pile of blocks. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

Start up the thin crack, pulling onto the face with some big moves to the break at about half height. Move right at the top to join the anchors of 'J P Superdog'. Originally a bold undertaking protected with traditional gear. A seldom, if ever repeated feat.

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

Hard bouldery start up the scoop to a no hands rest at mid-height. Then some balancy moves direct up the face to finish (stay off the right arete for full value).

Easily up to the overhanging bulge, hump and bump your way over the bulge and continue to the anchors.

Anchor hangers now have rings so you can climb and then abseil without walking off.

Left- hand start variant to Hrgngh.

Start left of the blunt arete for Hrgngh, the left crack and everything beyond is out (no bridging obviously). Make your way up some difficult moves and finish as for Hrgngh.

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for "Dochawiyogicojalime"

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

Not yet bolted, as I'm still cleaning it.

Climb the cruxy face then slabby corner left of "A Carp Died for This Climb", moving right for the last move or two to the shared belay/rap anchor. 3 bolts and possible to clip the fourth on "A Carp Died for This Climb". Take care approaching and clipping the third bolt as run-out.

Up the groove, delicate traverse left, finish straight up with some powerful moves

Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley. Slopey holds, and some fantastic moves.

Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. No anchors yet. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up the Line of Fearless Freddie to it’s anchor.

Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab.

Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.

Climb the face right of the crack. Crack is out. A bit contrived, but fun.

Climb the slabby wall to the ledge at the base of overhanging section placing a wire or cam on the way or clip the first bolt of ‘The Appendix’. From the ledge clip the bolt on the headwall then move up past this to clip the last bolt on ‘The Appendix’.

A right side variation involves climbing the face directly to the single bolt on the steep bulge. Stay right on the bulge using a sketchy heel hook to gain better holds. Press out mantle to finish. This variation is called "Toxoplasmosis" by Marco Lefebvre.

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

Climb the first 2 bolts then traverse left to pick up the top 2 bolts of Man From Atlantis. Start requires more powerful moves than MFA but less technical so the grade probably stays the same. Climb the crack before stepping left to clip the 3rd bolt of MFA. The direct version is getting bolted and will be very hard!!!

Starts just right of "Canadian Summer (M5)".

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

Use the thin crack and pockets up the steep face then straight through the overhang. Once through the overhang trending left and up a steep corner to the anchor. Initially climbed as a dry tooling route at grade M7, later free climbed.

Start as for Sunny Sunday, at the third bolt step right and over the bulge (crux).

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

First climbed using the top edge has now gone direct on the face [2 grades harder?], physical when done using the edge (i.e. not easy), crimpy on the face, great anchor with clippable biners for easy lowering.

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. The Tuataras head has since been leavered off. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet

Short bouldery line which climbs directly up the left hand side face of Pegasus.

Starts 5m left of "The Whimsical West". Climb 3m up to the left end of large rounded ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb up to second bolt then traverse horizontally along ledge then up to third bolt.

Up to fourth bolt then up the corner just right of the anchor bolts. Alternatively from fourth bolt climb corner just left of the anchor bolts.

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

Scramble up onto the ledge. Navigate straight up the face. slight left of bulge goes at 25, right of the bulge 26

The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value.

Follow the crack feature up the face. At 4th bolt, veer slightly right on thin holds (crux), before powering through the final moves to the anchor. Stay on the face for full value.

Start up between 'The Whimsical West' and 'Rock Climb This You Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.

Technical and delicate face climbing on open handholds. Originally graded 25/26 and climbed via the left-hand side of the first two bolts though climbing the right-hand side leads to easier ground. Downgraded due to community consensus.

Start at the bottom beside Angel of Calcutta. A nice (hard) boulder problem starts after the second bolt and finishes at the fourth. Easy climbing to the top.

Climbing the arete through the roof and varying onto the headwall and face.

Start as per 'J.E.M' then veer slightly right after the 2nd bolt. Technical climbing straight up the face leads to a tricky finish.

Start as for Sunday Sunday, clipping the first bolt of that route to move right and follow two more bolts, finishing directly and to the left of the third, to the groove above.

Start as per 'Skin Thicker than Leather' then, at the 2nd bolt, traverse right to join the bolt line of 'Jabbar the Hutt'.

Follow the arete just to the right of The Potarta moving right and up to the shelf and anchors. 2 BRs, 2 BBs.

Start on the wall 3m left of "Blue's Suede Shoes" up to the shelf, then two mantles (the first mantle is easiest from the right), then straight up the walls above to the anchor (double bolt belay). There is some loose rock off line.

Still alot of debris either side please be careful. start on the face and position yourself through the rails, mantle and then fight the pump to the top.

would be a crag classic maybe if it were slightly cleaner

Climb the crux of ‘The Troll’ then head out left after the second bolt.

3m left of Arachnid. Two bolt belay. Stay on the shield headwall, some holds on the left edge. Avoid the poor rock of to the right.

Start as for the first 3 bolts of C.J.D Arete, then head left up the small seam and shallow pockets.

Bolts for the upper face could be added for those with basophobia.

Start on the right side of the dark buttress right of “Midday lightning”, then up the centre of the buttress and left of the third bolt.

Start in the groove beween Blue's Suede Shoes and The Whimsical West. The first bolt is on the right, the rest are stright above the groove, finishing at the double bolt belay shared with BSS and WW.