Routes as sport in Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty

Climb the face and arete past the horizontal break. The crux is in the final moves, an exciting finish to an excellent route.

Only a single bolt at top for the anchor.

The left side of the wall on great rock. Good climbing but only two bolts and quite bold. DRB belay

Wonderful rock on this wall. Climb near the left rib past three bolts, the crux near the top moving leftwards. Good holds and moves. DRB belay.

Climb past a piton and two bolts straight up to the top, crux is a long move to the third bolt. DRB

Three Bolts, starting from the flake feature at the bottom. Climb on good holds up the wall and bulge, until above the third bolt the jugs stop and thoughtful balancy moves gain the top.

Good climb up the right side of the wall. It is steep but on good holds and the crux is above the third bolt to a ring piton. DRB belay.

The prominent arete provides good climbing. Start from the left or direct. A long run out to the first of four bolts and run out at the top to DRB belay, but a cam 2 in a break helps keep you calm.

Start just right of the arete. Hard move over the first overhang. Sustained fingery climbing from the half way rest. Keep left of the crack at the top. 7b to DRB belay. A crag classic

Climb the line of 7 bolts through the overhang on good holds, move rightwards then back leftwards to the crack in the upper overhang, then up the wall to the DRB belay. A crag classic.

Climb up the line of bolts starting just left of the crack, then moving left through the overhang on good holds to join Tsunami, and so the top.

The wall right of Great Rock and Roll Trundle, protected with glue in ring bolts. Great climb with big moves on good holds, crux between third and fourth bolts.

Follow black streak on pillar between hollows, good sustained climbing

The bolted featured arete about 30m along the path. Easy but run out to the first bolt, finishing on the left side to double bolt belay

Middle of the three bolted routes, with common start. Climb up to half way break, then sustained technical moves up to belay anchors on ledge above. 7b

The bolted crack, with painful finger jams pulling over the initial bulge.

Climbs the middle of the wall, moving rightwards onto a sloping ledge to gain the top. Now retrobolted with 3 shiny stainless bolts. A little runout at the top - but that is where the grade 14 climbing comes in. Definitely not the grade 14 it is down as in the guidebook. Belay from the 1st bolt of Bacon Butties. DRB at the top

Scramble up to a double bolt belay on a ledge. Follow the bolts up to another double bolt belay with only hangers. There is a tree further back to rappel from.

Up the face to a ledge. Follow the thin right crack to a double bolt ring anchor.

Wide left crack is out.

Climb found by turning right after descending the stairs, beginning is in the little enclave after you hit the sand.

Named as the first ascentionists wheelbarrowed a generator to power the drill, and aren't that young...Ten metres further along the path. Start as Left and Right routes, at a vague corner line through the less good rock of the initial section, to a ledge right of the first bolt. Climb straight up passing the break and up the upper arete (left of LR) to the top, passing six more bolts. DRB belay.

Left of Flesichbeschau, from same starting ledge. Climb the slab to the left side of the left hand scoop, and out to small ledge on the left arete. Step right and up the crack/groove to move onto the sloping ledge, and up the wall to DRB belay

Five metres right of Grimper. Short and reasonably steep. The rock is good enough, to DRB belay

The route starts at the top of the grassy ramp below TVP. Move up on mainly positive holds to the top bolt of TVP, stay left and up to the shared anchor.

Scramble up 6-7m to the wall set back and right of Big Fanny (the LH corner crack not the off width). Climb the blocky overhang and up the wall to the DRB belay. 1 grade easier if you bridge out right.

Name changed.

The pillar on the right side the cave/scoop right of Fleschbeschir. Climb up keeping left of the pohutakawa tree, after which it steepens and there lies the crux. The angle eases towards the DRB belay.

The next two climbs are gained by climbing the easy grass and rock ramp running up leftwards of Flesh Buttress to ledges below the clean wall above Pork Scratchings, and to a belay at the first bolt of Bacon Butty. The crack line right of Forgotten. Crux moves where the crack fades and a sloping ledge is gained. Protected by three bolts to a shared DRB with Forgotten.

Start in the corner left of the arete, as Simone, then break out left past the first bolt (can also be used on Simone to make the start less bold). The crux is passing the bulge between the second and third bolts, several variations but easiest just right of the bush. Some brittle rock near the top, so pull carefully (will be sorted with some traffic). Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson 11/02/16

Right of Simone, is a common start for several routes, up a groove of slightly suspect but well proven rock. Climb the common start to the first bolt then move leftwards and up to the DRB belay. Excellent rock after the first clip. Christian Richardson, Dave Offner, Andrew Wilkinson 4/02/16

Right of Lord of Bones, climb rocky steps to a ledge. Up slabby rock then the steeper black streak. Finish up more blocky rock to Kia Ora the DRB. The Name doffs caps to Game of Thrones and a delicious fruit drink with a name recognizable to kiwis...or not.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the right side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the right side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the left side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

Start up the groove with an intense start to the first bolt. Easier climbing up the ramp leads to the imposing arete feature, easier than it looks, once you find the holds.

The top half holds some bulgy cruxes (do I go right or left) and an airy traverse at the top that is full on.

Right of 'Dada Got Stuck (On Spider Monkey Wall)'. First bolt is above the beginning of the chain for 'Bushy Ledge'.

Hard to read crux.

Brilliant 3* crux sequence.

The steep grooved rib left of Dirty Deeds provides the crux, after an easy start. DRB.

This needed a lot of cleaning. Start up slabby rock left of Ulex Europeaus/ Gentic, to the hand crack. Up this then rightwards in front of the wedged block. Up the headwall to crux as the angle eases off. DRB.

The line just right of 'The Chickenator'. High first bolt, then ledges and overhangs.

Just right of Breezeblock. Climb the lower wall into a cave, then up and over the overhang tending left.

Start up the right-facing corner, moving left through a groove to a balanced block. Follow the featured rock up a slabby wall, then up steeper rock to the chains. Place extended draws strategically to reduce drag.

Just left of Potomania. Hard first few moves up a bulge to a crack, then up the corner and over a bulge to finish.