Routes as sport in Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty

Right of 'Dada Got Stuck (On Spider Monkey Wall)'. First bolt is above the beginning of the chain for 'Bushy Ledge'.

The left hand climb out of three on the cheesgrater face. Follow the right trending line of bolts through heavily featured face to a double Ring and chain Anchor under the roof. Great warm-up-climb.

The line just right of 'The Chickenator'. High first bolt, then ledges and overhangs.

Start up the right-facing corner, moving left through a groove to a balanced block. Follow the featured rock up a slabby wall, then up steeper rock to the chains. Place extended draws strategically to reduce drag.

Hard to read crux.

Brilliant 3* crux sequence.

Great climbing up blocky ledges lead you to a jammed in bolder. Pull over it to reach the double ring and chain anchor at half height.

Just right of Breezeblock. Climb the lower wall into a cave, then up and over the overhang tending left.

The Centre of attention on the Cheese wall, Technical and powerful throughout, a mix of styles and up to the Double Ring and chain Anchor

The very right hand end of the wall on the Wall of Cheese. Climbs the slab to a double bolt anchor under the roof. Thoughtful climbing to a crux move just before the anchor.

Left of "Death From Above" Power in through the roof and up easier ground, Double ring and chain anchor to the right of the ledge. A 60-80cm sling in the bottom hanger will help with lowering.

Into the open book up the center of the roof complex, left of "What We Do In The Shadows" follow the sloppy ledges to the Double ring and chain anchor.

Just left of Potomania. Hard first few moves up a bulge to a crack, then up the corner and over a bulge to finish.

Start up the groove with an intense start to the first bolt. Easier climbing up the ramp leads to the imposing arete feature, easier than it looks, once you find the holds.

The top half holds some bulgy cruxes (do I go right or left) and an airy traverse at the top that is full on.

Right of Chez Royale, easy climbing up bulge to the half height ledge. Steep climbing on small holds to the top.

Left Hand side of “Snuff Tha Rooster” Climb the Arete, clip the first bolt and move through the crux. Up to the right to a big ledgy jug. (Choose your footers carefully!) Climb up and stand on a little ledge. From the undercling either straight up the bolt line or step left and follow the groove. Double ring and chain anchor on a comfortable triangular Plattform. Abseil or lower slowly.

Start on the buttress left to „Bavarian Blue“ and head up the groove to the Double Ring and Chain Anchor.

Solve the Boulder problem to gain the first bolt. Climb up and through the little roof, follow the chimney to a good ledge. Move up past excellent holds to another ledge. Finish over a big block to a double ring and chain anchor.

Start up "DFA" then head to the right at the 3rd bolt. Into the open book and to the Double Ring and chain anchor.

Nice climbing to a tricky move left to access the pillar.

Middle of the Cheese Wall, snakes left through a slab section to a steep headwall. Nice variety of moves to DBB

Climbs the groove line. Climb left of first three bolts and right of the last few.

This Climb will grant you access to the upper tier. Head up the open book corner left of Perzonal Kravingz. The first section is very balancey but as you get the second bolt it turns into a easy fun climb. Stick to the left face or bridge through the corner. Attention!!! Try to choose the big chickenheads for footers as the smaller ones might give in. Double ring and chain anchor at the ledge.

Climb the face and arete past the horizontal break. The crux is in the final moves, an exciting finish to an excellent route.

Climb found by turning right after descending the stairs, beginning is in the little enclave after you hit the sand.

Up the face to a ledge. Follow the thin right crack to a double bolt ring anchor.

Wide left crack is out.

Only a single bolt at top for the anchor.

Second pitch above Rattle and Hum ledge.

Starts up couple of meters of dirty roots *in situ rope off first bolt. Then up right hand cleaned groove, move left below the headwall, then step right onto it (crux), and up to DBCB passing several bolts.

Wonderful rock on this wall. Climb near the left rib past three bolts, the crux near the top moving leftwards. Good holds and moves. DRB belay.

Go up the access rope under Taste The Mint, climb the face and arete up to the double ring and chain anchor by the rimu tree.

This magnificent line will keep you thrilled from time you leave the anchor at the rimu tree until you reach the top. Belayers should extend their safety to ensure the rope doesn't get caught on the rough edge of the rock! Campus up to the ledge above the anchor and move to the right. Delicate footwork and a hidden mono will let you cross to the left again to a big horn. Follow the bolt line to the top. Look around corners to find good holds. A great climb with a sustained grade. Double ring and chain anchor at the top.

Climb the line of 7 bolts through the overhang on good holds, move rightwards then back leftwards to the crack in the upper overhang, then up the wall to the DRB belay. A crag classic.

The wall right of Great Rock and Roll Trundle, protected with glue in ring bolts. Great climb with big moves on good holds, crux between third and fourth bolts.

Start just right of the arete. Hard move over the first overhang. Sustained fingery climbing from the half way rest. Keep left of the crack at the top. 7b to DRB belay. A crag classic

Technical climbing, harder than it looks from the ground.

Extension to 'The Chickenator'

The prominent arete provides good climbing. Start from the left or direct. A long run out to the first of four bolts and run out at the top to DRB belay, but a cam 2 in a break helps keep you calm.

Climb directly over the prow and follow the line of bolts, shares the last bolt of Rattle and Hum.

Scramble up to a double bolt belay on a ledge. Follow the bolts up to another double bolt belay with only hangers. There is a tree further back to rappel from.

Right of Simone, is a common start for several routes, up a groove of slightly suspect but well proven rock. Climb the common start to the first bolt then move leftwards and up to the DRB belay. Excellent rock after the first clip. Christian Richardson, Dave Offner, Andrew Wilkinson 4/02/16

Good climb up the right side of the wall. It is steep but on good holds and the crux is above the third bolt to a ring piton. DRB belay.

Climb past a piton and two bolts straight up to the top, crux is a long move to the third bolt. DRB

Three Bolts, starting from the flake feature at the bottom. Climb on good holds up the wall and bulge, until above the third bolt the jugs stop and thoughtful balancy moves gain the top.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the left side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

The route starts at the top of the grassy ramp below TVP. Move up on mainly positive holds to the top bolt of TVP, stay left and up to the shared anchor.

The bolted featured arete about 30m along the path. Easy but run out to the first bolt, finishing on the left side to double bolt belay

Access this line from the anchor of The Jester. Traverse left, clip and extend the first bolt of Tane Mahuta. Climb the dihedral to the anchor under the roof.

Start to the right of the prow and goes past 4 bolts to the mid height ledge and a DBB.

A tricky start to establish yourself on the face. Bit airy between 4th and 5th bolt but climbing is easy. DRB Belay.

Left of Flesichbeschau, from same starting ledge. Climb the slab to the left side of the left hand scoop, and out to small ledge on the left arete. Step right and up the crack/groove to move onto the sloping ledge, and up the wall to DRB belay

Climb up the line of bolts starting just left of the crack, then moving left through the overhang on good holds to join Tsunami, and so the top.

Scramble up 6-7m to the wall set back and right of Big Fanny (the LH corner crack not the off width). Climb the blocky overhang and up the wall to the DRB belay. 1 grade easier if you bridge out right.

Name changed.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Climb over the right side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor.

Right of Lord of Bones, climb rocky steps to a ledge. Up slabby rock then the steeper black streak. Finish up more blocky rock to Kia Ora the DRB. The Name doffs caps to Game of Thrones and a delicious fruit drink with a name recognizable to kiwis...or not.

Climbs the middle of the wall, moving rightwards onto a sloping ledge to gain the top. Now retrobolted with 3 shiny stainless bolts. A little runout at the top - but that is where the grade 14 climbing comes in. Definitely not the grade 14 it is down as in the guidebook. Belay from the 1st bolt of Bacon Butties. DRB at the top

Named as the first ascentionists wheelbarrowed a generator to power the drill, and aren't that young...Ten metres further along the path. Start as Left and Right routes, at a vague corner line through the less good rock of the initial section, to a ledge right of the first bolt. Climb straight up passing the break and up the upper arete (left of LR) to the top, passing six more bolts. DRB belay.

Follow black streak on pillar between hollows, good sustained climbing

Thin start, Burley middle and some cunning around the top half.

Start at the bottom of „Xmas Treat“ climb to the anchor and start traversing to the anchor of „The Laughing Cow“. Clip the other anchors as you pass them. Remembers a little bit of „The Arches“ in a smaller scale. Give it a go!

An intimidating start leads to a powerful move to establish yourself on the slab. Easy climbing leads to a tricky finish. Best position for belayer is clipped into the first bolt of Sand Face. Recommend brushing some of the starting holds and using an extended draw for the 3rd bolt. DRB Belay.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the right side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

Fun technical climbing directly up the middle of the slab. Easier version (17) can be climbed up the left hand crack system. Belayers position can be a bit precarious so belayer beware. DRB Belay.

The left line from the ledge. Crimpy face climbing.