Routes as sport in Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty

The left line from the ledge. Crimpy face climbing.

Link up of Ground Control and Major Tom. Climb Ground Control then head left, clipping a single bolt before joining Major Tom.

Second pitch above Rattle and Hum ledge.

Thin start, Burley middle and some cunning around the top half.

The direct extension through the roof of Sleepless Nights. Aka „Unnamed Project“ in Rock Delux North. Belaying from the ground is the best veiw for the belayer. 2nd up Access route and rap off ledge anchor. 70m+ rope needed.

Technical climbing, harder than it looks from the ground.

Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs).

Climb is on the right side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water.

An intimidating start leads to a powerful move to establish yourself on the slab. Easy climbing leads to a tricky finish. Best position for belayer is clipped into the first bolt of Sand Face. Recommend brushing some of the starting holds and using an extended draw for the 3rd bolt. DRB Belay.

Right of Chez Royale, easy climbing up bulge to the half height ledge. Steep climbing on small holds to the top.

Middle of the Cheese Wall, snakes left through a slab section to a steep headwall. Nice variety of moves to DBB

The steep grooved rib left of Dirty Deeds provides the crux, after an easy start. DRB.

Start to the right of the prow and goes past 4 bolts to the mid height ledge and a DBB.

Extension to 'The Chickenator'

Follow black streak on pillar between hollows, good sustained climbing

Start up "DFA" then head to the right at the 3rd bolt. Into the open book and to the Double Ring and chain anchor.

Left Hand side of “Snuff Tha Rooster” Climb the Arete, clip the first bolt and move through the crux. Up to the right to a big ledgy jug. (Choose your footers carefully!) Climb up and stand on a little ledge. From the undercling either straight up the bolt line or step left and follow the groove. Double ring and chain anchor on a comfortable triangular Plattform. Abseil or lower slowly.

Climb directly over the prow and follow the line of bolts, shares the last bolt of Rattle and Hum.

Solve the Boulder problem to gain the first bolt. Climb up and through the little roof, follow the chimney to a good ledge. Move up past excellent holds to another ledge. Finish over a big block to a double ring and chain anchor.

Start just right of the arete. Hard move over the first overhang. Sustained fingery climbing from the half way rest. Keep left of the crack at the top. 7b to DRB belay. A crag classic

The Centre of attention on the Cheese wall, Technical and powerful throughout, a mix of styles and up to the Double Ring and chain Anchor

This magnificent line will keep you thrilled from time you leave the anchor at the rimu tree until you reach the top. Belayers should extend their safety to ensure the rope doesn't get caught on the rough edge of the rock! Campus up to the ledge above the anchor and move to the right. Delicate footwork and a hidden mono will let you cross to the left again to a big horn. Follow the bolt line to the top. Look around corners to find good holds. A great climb with a sustained grade. Double ring and chain anchor at the top.

Brilliant 3* crux sequence.

The next two climbs are gained by climbing the easy grass and rock ramp running up leftwards of Flesh Buttress to ledges below the clean wall above Pork Scratchings, and to a belay at the first bolt of Bacon Butty. The crack line right of Forgotten. Crux moves where the crack fades and a sloping ledge is gained. Protected by three bolts to a shared DRB with Forgotten.

The bolted crack, with painful finger jams pulling over the initial bulge.

Middle of the three bolted routes, with common start. Climb up to half way break, then sustained technical moves up to belay anchors on ledge above. 7b

Scramble up 6-7m to the wall set back and right of Big Fanny (the LH corner crack not the off width). Climb the blocky overhang and up the wall to the DRB belay. 1 grade easier if you bridge out right.

Name changed.

The wall right of Great Rock and Roll Trundle, protected with glue in ring bolts. Great climb with big moves on good holds, crux between third and fourth bolts.

Three Bolts, starting from the flake feature at the bottom. Climb on good holds up the wall and bulge, until above the third bolt the jugs stop and thoughtful balancy moves gain the top.

Climb past a piton and two bolts straight up to the top, crux is a long move to the third bolt. DRB

Access this line from the anchor of The Jester. Traverse left, clip and extend the first bolt of Tane Mahuta. Climb the dihedral to the anchor under the roof.

Fun technical climbing directly up the middle of the slab. Easier version (17) can be climbed up the left hand crack system. Belayers position can be a bit precarious so belayer beware. DRB Belay.

This needed a lot of cleaning. Start up slabby rock left of Ulex Europeaus/ Gentic, to the hand crack. Up this then rightwards in front of the wedged block. Up the headwall to crux as the angle eases off. DRB.

The pillar on the right side the cave/scoop right of Fleschbeschir. Climb up keeping left of the pohutakawa tree, after which it steepens and there lies the crux. The angle eases towards the DRB belay.

Five metres right of Grimper. Short and reasonably steep. The rock is good enough, to DRB belay

Named as the first ascentionists wheelbarrowed a generator to power the drill, and aren't that young...Ten metres further along the path. Start as Left and Right routes, at a vague corner line through the less good rock of the initial section, to a ledge right of the first bolt. Climb straight up passing the break and up the upper arete (left of LR) to the top, passing six more bolts. DRB belay.

Start in the corner left of the arete, as Simone, then break out left past the first bolt (can also be used on Simone to make the start less bold). The crux is passing the bulge between the second and third bolts, several variations but easiest just right of the bush. Some brittle rock near the top, so pull carefully (will be sorted with some traffic). Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson 11/02/16

Up the face to a ledge. Follow the thin right crack to a double bolt ring anchor.

Wide left crack is out.

The very right hand end of the wall on the Wall of Cheese. Climbs the slab to a double bolt anchor under the roof. Thoughtful climbing to a crux move just before the anchor.

Left of "Death From Above" Power in through the roof and up easier ground, Double ring and chain anchor to the right of the ledge. A 60-80cm sling in the bottom hanger will help with lowering.

Into the open book up the center of the roof complex, left of "What We Do In The Shadows" follow the sloppy ledges to the Double ring and chain anchor.

This Climb will grant you access to the upper tier. Head up the open book corner left of Perzonal Kravingz. The first section is very balancey but as you get the second bolt it turns into a easy fun climb. Stick to the left face or bridge through the corner. Attention!!! Try to choose the big chickenheads for footers as the smaller ones might give in. Double ring and chain anchor at the ledge.

Hard to read crux.

Left of Flesichbeschau, from same starting ledge. Climb the slab to the left side of the left hand scoop, and out to small ledge on the left arete. Step right and up the crack/groove to move onto the sloping ledge, and up the wall to DRB belay

Climbs the middle of the wall, moving rightwards onto a sloping ledge to gain the top. Now retrobolted with 3 shiny stainless bolts. A little runout at the top - but that is where the grade 14 climbing comes in. Definitely not the grade 14 it is down as in the guidebook. Belay from the 1st bolt of Bacon Butties. DRB at the top

The prominent arete provides good climbing. Start from the left or direct. A long run out to the first of four bolts and run out at the top to DRB belay, but a cam 2 in a break helps keep you calm.

Good climb up the right side of the wall. It is steep but on good holds and the crux is above the third bolt to a ring piton. DRB belay.

Start at the bottom of „Xmas Treat“ climb to the anchor and start traversing to the anchor of „The Laughing Cow“. Clip the other anchors as you pass them. Remembers a little bit of „The Arches“ in a smaller scale. Give it a go!

Start on the buttress left to „Bavarian Blue“ and head up the groove to the Double Ring and Chain Anchor.

Climbs the groove line. Climb left of first three bolts and right of the last few.

Start up the groove with an intense start to the first bolt. Easier climbing up the ramp leads to the imposing arete feature, easier than it looks, once you find the holds.

The top half holds some bulgy cruxes (do I go right or left) and an airy traverse at the top that is full on.

Just left of Potomania. Hard first few moves up a bulge to a crack, then up the corner and over a bulge to finish.