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Summary
Basalt
The majority of routes and anchors have been replaced with titanium hardware. The rebolting effort continues, please visit www.facebook.com/groups/ReboltTiPoint for more information.
Description
Ti Point offers a great day trip destination for climbers, providing good a mix of quality sport/trad climbing on coastal basalt.
The sea cliffs here are generally solid but be aware that there are some loose blocks about.
Access issues
The crag borders private property so please respect this.
Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.
Approach
20-30 min
Ti Point is located about 90 km north of the Auckland CBD, near Leigh. From Auckland take State Highway one to Warkworth, then turn off to Leigh and Matakana, following the road past Big Omaha and then turn off at the signpost towards Ti Point.
There are two ways to reach the crag, from the north park, at Matheson’s Bay, scrambling south around the coast for 40 minutes, arriving at the Whiskey Delta Area. This way in is tide dependent so plan ahead or get wet. From the South car park at Ti Point wharf, take the track heading north for 30 minutes. Wear good footwear as the path is rough at times and slippery after recent rain. At the end of the official walkway you can either head left up the hill which will get you to the top of the crag whereas staying on the coast will have you arrive at the Preamble Area.
History
Climbing at Ti Point first started in the early 70’s. Over the course of three years from 1972 to 1975, a number of lines were established using traditional protection. The crag then ceased to see any significant development until the 90’s when the crag experienced its ‘second coming’. This second wave of development which continued through till 2005 can be attributed to the efforts of Graeme Dingle who became one of the crags most prominent developers.
Since then the crag has remained a favourite day trip for Auckland and Whangarei based climbers due to the proximity to these urban centres, the picturesque setting of the crag, and the concentration of quality rock climbing to be done at Ti Point.
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Nearby Icons
| 18 | ★★ The Fang | ||
| 19 | ★★ C.J.D Arete | ||
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| 22 | ★★ J.E.M. | ||
| 23 | ★★ The Whiskey Delta Trilogy | ||
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Raenee Wilson at Sam Bullock Wall - The Angry Sea and the Sky
Andy Baird on ★ Ridin' the 868 18 - Ridin' the 868
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