Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V8 | |||||||||
V8 | ★★ Straight out | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Feb 2023 | |||||
29 | |||||||||
25 ~25 |
Kneepad
Gear on
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 attempts
- with
gsmizz
| 30m | Mount Owen | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Dec 2022 | ||||
Did the first pitch only, amazing climb potentially worth the walk in just to get some tufa action in NZ!
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25 |
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 attempts | 50m | Mount Owen | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
Only climbed Micromania (first pitch)
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25 |
★★★ Megalomania P1
— 2 attempts | 50m | Mount Owen | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||||
Such a beautiful climb!
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28 | |||||||||
28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | ||||||
The large jug with vegetation growing out of it up and to the right of the third clip is not part of the climb - not in the Rock Deluxe guidebook but a useful piece of information for anyone wanting to send this route
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28 | ★★★ Dancing On A Skewer | Paynes Ford | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | ||||||
28 | ★★ Fauvism | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★ Fauvism | Paynes Ford | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | ||||||
27 | |||||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Average | Thu 10th Jan 2008 | |||||
contrived, hard to not bridge off pillar, damn stout!
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27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||||
27 | ★★ Electrocution | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jun 2003 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Dec 2007 | |||||
The draws were on so tried the moves..and actually did them! May have gotten some linkage next go but too many other climbs to try.
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28 27 | ★★ Papageno | 15m, 4 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jun 2002 | ||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Sun 13th Jan 2008 | ||||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Mon 14th Jan 2008 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Mon 26th Nov 2007 | |||||
26 if someone leaves tick marks on it
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Dec 2017 | ||||
Does is get better than this?? Happy to work out all the moves, will have to come back with more skin and colder temps to get this.
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Dec 2017 | ||||
Got through to the last crux before falling. Feels very doable but needs better conditions.
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jan 2018 | ||||
Two near misses
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Pousse Ton Froc | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2011 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
Fell off the second crux waaay too many times. I'll have to come back for this one. Hopefully the holds are not too glassy by then.
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27 | ★★ Cloudwalker | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||||
Rad movements on this climb on varied holds. Very bouldery. IMO some of the funnest moves at paynes, however not suited to shorter climbers. Rock quality is pretty good due to low traffic, so get in there before this sick route becomes polished like creative confusion.
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||||
Fun route with some cool moves on nice holds once you've charged through the polished bullshit down lower. Possibly a bit soft for the grade but shhhh
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27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | Sat 23rd May 2020 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion - with Tom | Paynes Ford | Fri 16th Oct 2020 | ||||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jan 2021 | |||||
really enjoyable moves, need more power endurance
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Jan 2021 | |||||
24th(?) go? What a battle! stoked
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | |||||
Second go
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27 | ★★ Electrocution | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | |||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Mar 2021 | |||||
Was hoping someone in the know would be able to shed some light on the BETA here. To me there seem to be 2 very easily accessible detached blocks, the lower that runs out at the second clip and the higher block that joins up to clip 4 and Carnage at the Crossroads. Could some kind soul let me know which, if any, of these blocks are 'in'.
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Mar 2021 | |||||
27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2021 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mea Culpa | 16m, 6 | Paynes Ford | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon — 4 attempts - with Ryan Yang, Sam Turner | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2023 | |||||
27 | ★★ Papageno — 2 attempts - with Ryan Yang, VillaBot, Nick Morrow | 15m, 4 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | ||||
27 | FA Claim-Jumper | 27m, 13 | Mount Owen | Wed 22nd Mar 2017 | |||||
FA
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27 | FA Runaway Train | 35m, 15 | Mount Owen | Thu 7th Jun 2018 | |||||
Hard to work. Easy to send under perfect conditions. Low in the grade compared to Claim Jumper?
FA |
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27 | ★ There Is No Spoon - with Kyle Johnson, Megan Ellis | Paynes Ford | Tue 14th Mar 2023 | ||||||
I'm not sure if it's possible to hold any of the crimps on this climb. Was kinda fun to try though haha
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27 | ★ There Is No Spoon | Paynes Ford | Fri 24th Feb 2023 | ||||||
Had a go after Jess, crimps were a bit much for me, few of the moves seemed impossible
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion — 3 attempts | Paynes Ford | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||||
Got it all worked out, but proved to be a bit too juiced for the send. One to come back for!
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27 | ★★ Creative Confusion | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 7th Jan 2022 | |||||
23 |
★★ Cauli-Olli
— 2 attempts | 55m, 23 | Mount Owen | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||||
26 | |||||||||
26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ African Head Charge | Paynes Ford | Tue 17th Jan 2017 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sun 23rd Feb 2014 | |||||
Thanks Mike for pointing out the rest to me.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension (Snatchimated Suspension) | Pōhara | Mon 19th Dec 2016 | ||||||
Starts with a bit of power and then turns to stamina making it my new preferred variant on the Why Wall.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension | Pōhara | Fri 18th Nov 2016 | ||||||
Definitely size dependent: crimps for the tall ones down low, long moves for the shorties up high. Felt a notch easier than Snatch for me (which puts it on par with Why Not).
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | |||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | 25m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | ||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2021 | |||||
whipped off first clip many times and have lots of bruises on my bum great line
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Mon 28th Dec 2020 | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||
Okay, so this is my 5th day on and I expected to not really be able to do much on this today but wanted to have a go as the draws were up and Dom went for redpoint burn. I guess it suits me because I dogged up pretty readily despite having extremely little stamina today! ❤
Quite interesting to me that the two powerful 💪🏼 moves in the crux sequence (2nd to 4th bolt 🔩) were fairly trivial to me once I found the correct feet (and used a sloper bump for the first power move cuz of my size) 🔥 So power not much affected by no rest days, but endurance is in the can as I was chickenwinging 🐔 to the anchor after the crux even though it's only 22ish climbing 😂 |
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26 | ★★★ The Beast Within - with Alexei Drummond | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||
Injured, so decided to clean off the gear. Actually did climb all the moves but grabbed draws to clip; injury doesn't help my headgame, it turns out!
Weirdly, the conditions were nice and grippy today despite the route being in full sun while I was going up (as opposed to spoogey as heck yesterday when it was cloudy! Humidity, I guess. It was raining all day in the hills today, so weird!) |
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26 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse | 30m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Dec 2021 | ||||
26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
Minging holds at the crux and dirty, but worth a lap.
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27 26 | ★★★ Why Not? - with Jordan Widodo | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
Sent on my 5th attempt maybe 27 ?
compared to the 26s I've sent this feels harder.
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 2 attempts - with Ryan Yang, VillaBot | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jan 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 3 attempts | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jan 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within — 3 attempts | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Jan 2023 | ||||
Managed to channel some beast from within on the last day at Paynes and 10th straight day on climbing.
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26 | Cosmic Girl | 22m, 6 | Mount Owen | Sun 5th Feb 2017 | |||||
Cruised (placing draws). Came very close to blowing it at the top. Jochen talked me off the ledge. ;-)
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26 | FA After The Gold Rush | 70m, 33 | Mount Owen | Sun 26th May 2019 | |||||
FA
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26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||||
2nd Go
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26 | ★★★ African Head Charge | Paynes Ford | Tue 17th Jan 2017 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Sun 23rd Feb 2014 | |||||
Thanks Mike for pointing out the rest to me.
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26 | ★ Sunday Picnic | 15m, 5 | Paynes Ford | Sat 26th Nov 2016 | |||||
Cop-out version (went right).
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | Mon 17th Aug 2015 | |||||
26 | ★★ Animated Suspension (Snatchimated Suspension) | Pōhara | Mon 19th Dec 2016 | ||||||
Starts with a bit of power and then turns to stamina making it my new preferred variant on the Why Wall.
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension | Pōhara | Fri 18th Nov 2016 | ||||||
Definitely size dependent: crimps for the tall ones down low, long moves for the shorties up high. Felt a notch easier than Snatch for me (which puts it on par with Why Not).
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26 ~23 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse | 30m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Feb 2023 | ||||
26 | Gear on ★★★ The Beast Within — 2 attempts | 6 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | ||||
Quite chuffed to put this one away second go. Awesome and sustained, but felt a touch easier than the 25s on Globe Wall.
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26 | ★★ The Kool-aid grand traverse - with Carter Hewson, Finn Brown, Sam Beattie | 30m | Paynes Ford | Mon 27th Nov 2023 | |||||
Made it just over halfway, sick climb
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26 | ★★ Animated Suspension — 2 attempts | Pōhara | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | |||||
Went down without drama second go. A lot easier when you know where the holds are.
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26 | ★★★ Why Not? — 3 attempts | 20m, 6 | Pōhara | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jan 2024 | ||||
About 2 moves away from onsighting, then second go climbed like a gumby. Third time was the charm, good fun!
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26 | ★ Fish And Chips | Paynes Ford | Fri 26th Jan 2024 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ The Beast Within | 6 | Paynes Ford | Fri 2nd Feb 2024 | |||||
26 | ★ Berlin Wall | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | |||||
Utterly minging! Might be possible with a local anaesthetic to numb the pain in the fingers.
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26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
26 | ★★ Fish on Heat | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
26 | ★★ Procrastination | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Thu 21st Mar 2024 | |||||
top section feels very hard at present
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V5/6 | |||||||||
V5 V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
Didn’t pull the lip so can’t claim the send, but climbing out the roof barefoot then dropping into the river is a must do experience.
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test — 3 attempts - with gsmizz, Nakkers | 4m | Paynes Ford | Sun 4th Dec 2022 | |||||
Tried going left and right, still unsure what the actual line is, can make it out to the edge but haven't slapped for the lip yet, toe crimping is good!
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V5/6 ~V6 | ★★★ The Acid Test — 2 attempts | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Feb 2023 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with jake | 4m | Paynes Ford | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||||
Looked so cool so we gave it a go (or 2). Awesome holds and made it halfway even though my toes were cramping over each other. Then I lost the way. Very fun
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with Carter Hewson, Finn Brown, Sam Beattie | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Nov 2023 | ||||
One of a kind climbing
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with Felix Blanchard, Carter Hewson, Finn Brown | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Nov 2023 | ||||
such cool climbing
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with Saskia Chantler | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st Jan 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Feb 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | |||||
I got to a couple of moves away from the lip on my best attempt, but it's hard to find the correct line, I kept running out of holds. otherwise it's an incredibly fun problem
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test - with Grayson Meaclem | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | ||||
Amazing juggy handles into difficult slopy mantle to finish.
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V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | ||||
V5/6 Easy | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Acid Test | 4m | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 |