Custom PDF
Directions in Google Maps
This area is located on the true right side of the gully which separates the Eagle Rock crags from the Upper Bluffs. These are mostly north facing cliffs below PT1269 (on most topo maps). They offer a variety of climbing styles and grades on quality rock which is mostly above bush line. Near the top of this area is the white gravel and odd shaped boulders of ‘Zen Garden’ which is similar to Mount Titiroa’s ‘Geiger’s Garden’ These tops are also accessible via a the Eldrig Peak Track.
Summary
Description
A collection of crags offerings some good established routes with plenty of potential for further route development.
Access issues inherited from Borland Valley
From early May to mid October, the road to the Borland crags is closed. Though winter here is not suitable for cragging due to seepage. But for those determined enough, a bike can be ridden up the road.
Approach
While this area can be approached via the Mt Eldrig Track, the fastest approach is via the Main Bluffs access. From the National Park gate by Borland Lodge, drive west along road for 9.5 km. Park at Pylon #89. Walk east to creek then enter the bush forest on the true left of the creek and follow well marked track steeply up the spur past fixed ropes to a rock ridge below the Main Bluffs. Walk along the base of the Main Bluffs to the base of Feature Face. Once at the base of Feature Face, continue east in the beech forest on a sparsely marked route across the gully (and water source) and slowly up to the base of the dome below Eagle Rock. Approximately 1.5 hours from the road.
Where to stay
Rees's Bivy, camp in the Zen Garden or in the Valley.
Ethic inherited from Borland Valley
Leave no trace.
Plan your Trip
Did you know?
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Sat 27 May
Check out what is happening in Eagle Rock Crags.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
- Ticks by climbers like you
- Discussions of the community
- Updates to the index by our users
- and many more things.
Login to see the timeline!